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Geoff

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  1. Be nice if some "new blood" showed up....unfortunately I'll be at Black butte since this race just got planned but I might get to show up monday.....Pretty nice pic you got there....who took it???
  2. When I had my 7mm I ran it first on gas with 35's and inframe CPI's. Also had a WCR override in it with a +10 and 12pdl haulers. This would've worked good but I got more into racing and just to much for our dunes IMO with all the razor backs and stuff we got. I ended up switching to 38mm mikuni's on alky with 14ext and it was a handful with that +10...really needed a longer arm. It will be alot of motor for a +6 IMO but some people are far better riders then others & can pull it off....I'm just not one of them,lol. If you set the carbs up correctly there should be no issue at all...All the single will do is choke it down and kill the power
  3. Best bang for the buck is going to be the Cub like already said...you'll be able to move over alot of the parts you currently have but will want to step up to bigger carbs & different pipes. Like already said you'll want to go with an override also cuz once you put the lockup on the shifting kinda sucks because of all the pressure it applies....overrides can be duned you just have to clutch it alot & know what your doing. FYI a cub on alky will own you with that +8 if you put some decent tire on it. Good luck
  4. Having a plug vibrate out is caused by detonation...so I would think it's lean on top. The oil coming out the pipes is probably because your running your premix rich. When I ran my bike on gas I used Amsoil Saber and ran it 100:1 and know of guys that ran it 120:1 on gas. It coats very well since it's seems to be a little thicker than the "normal" stuff out there. I would throw a 320 main jet in it with new plugs and see if that solves the laying over problem.
  5. Come on guys/gals....if your interested in something I open to reasonable offers...Thanks
  6. Chrome, I hate polishing...My bike is going back together with all parts either painted, chromed, anodized, or water transfer....I'm all about low maintenance this go around.
  7. Don't have any asphalt experience but just remember going to short will slow you down also cuz of how hard you'll hit the bar when you launch....Personally I'd go longer before I'd go shorter. Stance of the bike also dictates weight transfer. If you have the bike raked down towards the front it will be harder to transfer compared to if the front is level with the rear for example...theres lots of variables and trial and error.
  8. If your starting from scratch I'd lean towards a 4dm....10mm cubs will run good but the dm will out perform it IMO as it should being it's almost 100cc's bigger. As far as setup if you don't want to cut extensively on the frame I'd get metal tech a-arms that are stock width & +3.5". Get a jj&a hillshooter axle & carrier and then run a +10-12 swingarm...Most will say thats to long but I ran a +10 with a 7mm cub and sometimes it would hammer the bar so I personally would lean towards a +12. If you want to start cutting then your imagination an obviously safety is the limit. This is +7.5" in the front & +16 in the rear...definately an extreme version of a stock frame
  9. There at the shop so I can get you pics tomorrow(tuesday)....they would be $200 shipped...I will include any extra pedals I have also
  10. Orginally they were supposed to be more blue to match the frame but the frame came back candy teal from PC so oh well.....You could always redo the frame to match?? , the chicks would dig it..haha
  11. Sorry, thought I put a price....my bad. $500 shipped. Takes a big box to ship front, cover, & the rears. They are the only "wet look" paint job I've seen Lew do. No, they are used
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