badassbanshee479

yeah me too!!! I have one of jeffs clutchs in my drag ported cub motor without a lock up have not got it to slip yet! and I like to hot lap the drag strip so the clutch gets a good work out! money well sent since it saved me from having to buy a 375.00 lock up and cover!!! the man is trying to run a business here why keep buggin him about what he is using? kind of like calling up all the local porters and asking for all there port timing maps. whos to say you aren't gonna just turn around and start your own shop and claim the porting specs as your own. dont wanta start a war or anything, this is just my opinion on the matter take it or leave it.

I have not dynoed mine yet but my builder did get to dyno one setup just like mine and it made 90 some hp with no tuning what so ever and the bike was not even fully warmed up!! this is with a 4mill stroker 68 bore, in frame pipes and on race fuel ! cubs are worth every penney !!!!

I had a +4 key in my cub motor when I lost my stock one(just to get me through the weekend) pulled the fly wheel to put the new stock one back in and the key was half sheaered off already! do a search on modding your stock timing plate and you can save your self $20 or if you don't feel comfortable doing this buy a ricky stator timing plate, they are only $35.00 friends of mine have bought the plates off of ebay as well. more timing is gonna get you more bottom end will sacurficeing a touch on top. hope this helps

sned me some pics, I may be able to use them. [email protected] thanks

guys over on planet sand are making over 100hp with Alky and out of frame drag pipes with 4mills, it can be done.

FAST beat all the prices I could find when I bought my carbs, just my two cents though!!

on the hot rods +4 stroker cranks, the welds are breakiing that hold the crank webs to the rod pins. if you do buy one, I would have some one go over the factory welds and re weld them, I had cubshee over on planet sand true and reweld mine and have not had anymore problems as of yet. I would never buy anything else other than a cub motor, I had a viteos big bore kit for awhile, then I went to my cub and the power is night and day differance, I have raced t-rex bikes +7 +10 strokers etc.. and they have a hell of a time keepin up. another good builder to contact would be jeff from FAST, he has anything and everything you could imagine for a banshee, and I taked to him the other day and he has started welding the hot rods cranks before he evan sends them out.

if you buy the right tool for the job, you can use your torque wrench with the adapter and tighten the nuts the right way so that they do not back off. when I changed my swinger I used a big cresent wrench the first time and the nut backed off, so the second time I copyed the wrench I needed and torqued the nuts the right way and they have not moved. better for setting bearing preload also.

if you are gonna go with a 4mill cub, you will need a new crank, (hot rods cranks come welded) different domes for your head (cut for your bore and stroke) bigger carbs, stock will work but you will be starving your motor so bad it woun't be funny, different pipes (shearers are my top choose) cpis second, your vf2's will work, gonna need bigger filters when you get bigger carbs, be looking for a longer swing arm, I still have to be careful with an 8 over swinger, lock up clutch for sure. different pistions depending on bore size. I would stick with race fuel cause you can run more compresion and more timing. let me know if you have any more questions I can help you with. good luck

watch the welds on the flywheel side of the hot rods cranks, mine broke once already. crank works can fix um if they come apart on ya though.

if you are gonna go 7mm why not go 10mm? the cubs are the same money, the crank is the same money, pipes are the same, etc... I had jeff from F.A.S.T. build my 4mill cub and it flat out hauls ass. I am sure a couple of guys on here can vouch for that

dave moore racing makes a 2-4 dunable over ride that can be riden normal and shifted like a over ride. there is a guy on ebay that has been offering them in any style gear over ride style, 1-5, 2-4, 2-5, etc... http://www.davemooreracing.com/trans_mods.html here is a link to dave moores site hope this helps also I found the item number to the over ride on ebay 4591238737 type it in the search bar in ebay and check it out. good luck

pm sent!!

450.00?

yuo want to keep a rough surface on the intake ports to keep the fuel atomized in the port, when you polish all you do is the exhaust port, you don't have to spend days on it just smooth it out so carbon has a hard time sticking to it. hope this helps

my vf3's had to be port matched to my upp intakes for my 39mm carbs

400.00, also looking for a lock up and cover, flywheel cover, staight cut gears, pingel valve, etc.... let me know what ya got.

68mm 4mill cubs and be done with it!!! hard to catch with stock cylinders

I used yz125 o-rings I had laying around from my brothers 99, I also put a little copper seal on them and leak is gone.

jeff from F.A.S.T. has all of that stuff on hand and he can do porting for you also, I would say what you mentioned above and a good dune/play port and that thing would fly! give jeff a call and he will work the details out with ya, just tell him what you want it to do and he will make it happen. 785-364-5325

go with the FAST clutch it is holding with no lock up on my 100 hp cub motor.

link to the ad over on planet sand http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...0/page/0#374990

only got me by a bike length, I was having shifting problems and I was having a hard time getting it to hook, more paddles and an over ride it would have been no problem, I am running 39mm pwks on my bike right now.

My grandparents live in irones which is right down the road from peacock, let me know next time you are headin out there, would be sweet to hook up with ya out there.

sweet pics man, have to hook up with ya next time around for sure