badassbanshee479

yeah drain the coolent and oil, pull the lower hose of the side case pull the kick starter off, then remove the screws holding the side cover on, after removing the the screws pull the side cover off, watch the top area buy the water pump cover cause there is a tube with an o-ring that slides into the side case, becareful not to bend or mangle the tube removing the cover.after the cover is off look down under the clutch backet towards the back and you should see the shift shaft end if there is no pin coming throgh the shift shaft linkage then you found the problem. let me know if you need anything else always glad to help.

I have a chrome rear axle for 50 bucks plus shipping if you are intrested,

did you finaly get a chance to work on your own drag bike ? did you build that 10 mill like you were talkin?

sounds like the spring on the shift shaft took a poop or the adjuster that the shift shaft spring sits on broke, pull the side cover and take a look, should be able to see the problem. let me know if you need any help

if I would have had an over ride I think I could have cought him for sure!! great to meet ya.

if you think cubs are so fake, head to your local drag strip and watch the little cubs beat up on the big ol t-rex bikes and etc.. they are no joke, and worth every dime spent! dynos are for tuning puposes any way, you can take a 100hp bike and put some no riding sob on it and take a 75-80 hp bike with a good rider and you can watch the 100hp bike get his azz handed to him! just some food for thought.

you wount be sorry you bought the cubs, they are one of the single best mods I have ever done for sure!!

no web site for jeff but I do have his phone number if you would like it. let me know

jeff from F.A.S.T. does one heck of an engine also, great guy to deal with and has just about anything you can think of as far as parts go!

watch the welds on the hot rods cranks, guys over on planet sand have had a bunch of the crank welds break and pull apart!! I know this for a fact cause mine just did it the other day! I would recamend having someone that knows how to tig weld go over the factory welds just to be safe. as far as power per dollar spent you cant beat the cheetah cubs, I would not go back for nothing

I am tryin to get up there that weekend, all depends on if I get my crank back in time

I had to run race fuel when I had 19cc domes in my bike

I have a set of ported stock cages with tdr reeds on them if you want make me an offer and there yours

my 421 cub motor destroyed three pedels when I ran the 2's now I am running 3's and I have not had a single problem. I had jeff over at FAST port the 3's to match my 39mm upp intakes and they perform asome.

I am running 18cc domes in my drag ported bike and it is all top end. it depends on your porter, you should get with him and see what he recamends

if you buy the aftermarket chain roller from upp the instructions say to cut the old one off on the bike, then the new one comes with a slit in it so you can slide it over the swing arm and attach with a bolt check the attached link out. http://www.uppracing.com/index.php?cid=94

I would also give jeff a call, and defently stay away form trinity!!

Great info thanks guys!!

as it says, let me know what ya got and how much. thanks

thanks for all that replyed, I will start looking into some of these!!

where do ya get it and which kind do you use?? c12 u2 etc...

t-5s should work good for ya then!!

jeff from F.A.S.T. does great port work, my bike flat out flys!!! give him a call and tell him what you are trying to do and he will be able to hook you up!! 785-364-5325

thats a relef for sure !! I know there is grooves in the clutch hub, and I know the shift shaft is worn so I think that should bring it around. what tranny oil should I be using??

bdbanshee which bike was yours??