dajogejr

Nope...no need to bash! Every bike is different....period. You've obviously tuned yours carefully to get the results and longevity you've had. They break @ WOT more than idle...so, you're doing something right. But, we can all agree to start out safe and go in small increments.

Don't sweat it... I had distilled water in mine all year, up until about 1 month ago, when it started getting cold. Cracking a cub cylinder because of freezing temps is not how I wanted to end my year...LOL. I put Prestone 50/50 mix in it this time, cause I was too damn lazy to mix it myself....and only to keep the system from freezing. Getting ready to ice race, and on alky...if you overheat that kind of motor, you have bigger problems! Engine Ice works great too...

That's exactly right. The flat head screws just above where the bowl meets, close to your airbox boots/clamp on filters. DO NOT over tighten these to seat them, gentle seat is all you need. That brass nose is soft, no need to disform it.

I'd like to see a vid of that thing!! 6 over and NOS? You're either not hitting it out of the hole, have a wheelie bar, or not enough paddle.....

Take 'em out...there should be a little arch.

Depends on your paddles, gearing, air pressure and sand type, as well. I had your same setup (going bigger carbs, alky, etc.) I ran stock gearing (14/41 or 42), 6 over arm and 10 paddle haulers with a 72" rollout. Tall, skinny tire. Granted, I'm 245 lbs. It is a handful.... If you drag more than dune, I say 6 or 8 over to help keep the front end down. If you dune more, 4 or 6 over... I'm going to be more drag, less dune...and I'm going 14 over with 14 paddle extremes. (I won't be carving very good turns anytime soon...) I should also mentioned, I switched from stock shocks to Marvin Shaw comp series all around. VERY, very stiff...but, since the back end is not sagging as much as a softer shock....it will not wheelie quite as much...better weight transfer.

Ok...tires should be ok. 8 row is good for a stockish motor, piped shee... Put the 27.5 pilots in, turn the screws out 1 turn. Warm up the bike fully. Turn each screw in .5 turns, so...they're out .5 total. Wait 20 seconds for the bike to recognize the adjustment. Go for a ride. Come back, turn them .5 out, same thing, wait....go for a ride. You want the air screw set for the highest possible idle, then it's perfect. Then adjust the idle screws if need be. You want to idle in the 1400 to 1600 RPM range....again, fully warmed up. You need to allow 20 seconds in between air screw adjustments to let the new setting "take"... Hope this helps. Stock needle should be fine at the middle (3rd) clip.

Real, real hard starting, running like dog shit until at least 1/2 throttle. This is too easy to check and not guess. The slides have a little cutout in the back. If you can see the little "arch" of a cutout through your airbox, they're fine....if not, they're in backwards.

These guys have you going in the right direction. If you give us more info, we can help get you very close on the jetting, but...we can't give you exact jets. You'll have to tune and figure that out on your own. Elevation you ride at? Temps you ride in? All mods done to the bike, including airbox, lid, snorkel, stock timing, shaved/aftermarket head, etc? FMFs are notorious for liking a fatter pilot than most pipes. The fact that you didn't change the jetting tells me you're way LEAN, so...I'd stop riding it period until the jetting is fixed accordingly!

Bump the pilot down to a 27.5. You don't need that big of a pilot with T5 pipes. That will clean it up off the bottom. With that big of a pilot, I'm surprised you have to pull the choke at all to start it. Leave the needle as is. Is it the stock needle or Toomey/DynoJet needle? If the bottom cleans up, but it's blubbery in the middle, then lean out the needle one clip (one clip towards the blunt end) Mains sound about right....I ran 340 is my same setup, pods and T5s. With a 13 tooth, it should be ripping through the gears. Two off the wall questions for you. What kind and how many rows of paddles? (Many people often over paddle their banshee, they gotta spin a little) How much compression does your motor have (fresh or worn out can be even more so evident in the dunes, they flat out rob power)....

Please, no pictures of pink, purple...or any other color thong for that matter....lol... :yelrotflmao:

That was gonna be my next tip. Use some WD40 or other penetrating oil to thread that puller in. You don't want to only grab 2 or 3 threads on that flywheel, and they're usually a little rusted. Pop it for a second or so with an air impact, and it'll pop right off....no worries. Good luck!!

Too bad he couldn't wake up at the light....that is cookin pretty good. Best part is...hold the throttle. No shifting, clutching, etc. Just pin it....

Chase, I run 110 w/ 185PSI, and I promise I have a shitload more timing than you do....curve 3 on my dyna and 8 on my plate... You're fine.

Ha Ha...you know that one, too...huh Brad? I don't see a second hand on that one....

On my trail/play bike. My drag piece of shit hillbilly bike only does 190 like that... :beer: :yelrotflmao:

Actually.... I meant the FIVE bikes you have listed in your sig, not the pics....

Damn....and here I thought this was a "different" type of sale.... LOL... :beer:

Have you tried filing a paypal claim yet? Shitty deal, sorry to hear...I hate ass wads like this.... OJ...do you have any of the member names he used? I searched for Powersports Parts, etc...but didn't find anything...

Guess he should've taken the 500 shipped...huh? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...714336&rd=1

Not as much as you'd lose if you took a few lines off that page long sig of yours....LOL. :yelrotflmao: Just playin... Probably a few PSI or so, maybe up to 10, but...with a dune port, not enough to worry about.

Nope, can't say that I have...but, then again, I've never been there on a holiday weekend. Next year, for SURE!! Oh, I'm not saying it can't be done...but, it can't be done very easily, that's all!!!

Bizzump..... Was looking forward to that...but, I understand!

Something you guys gotta remember when dealing with snowmobile motors....the CV system eats almost 1/2 the HP... 3.4's....that sounds a little off, I'd like to see a timeslip. Not saying it can't be done...but, that's cookin pretty good. You can build a big cheetah bike which would be much more efficient than that sled motor and CV...of course, a good pilot is a must, too....

Naw, I take everything like this with a grain of salt....he's not ruining my fun or insulting me.... I'm here to help and learn....no way everyone is going to always agree with everyone, so....it is what it is. Sometimes common sense isn't so common, that's all. :beer: