dajogejr

NO....don't attempt to cover the hole and get the screws. You can adjust the tops of the throttle cable to temporarily get by...but, you should have slack there too, for if you turn the bars, the RPMs will rise, not good. Honestly, do it right, do it safe, and get the right parts.

Autozone by me carries them, but it depends on the butthead behind the counter if they actually want to look for them and help you. They don't use the BR8ES number, they use the other number on the box....5422 maybe??? Just a little info for you....

What are the actual readings, and....did you use a quality tester?

True Dat. Honestly, I bought my ignition because my stockers were 10 years old. I knew I planned on going alky, and I think you'll agree a good hot spark is necessary to get an alky bike running good. I'm not saying stock components can't deliver that...many still use 'em. However, I wasn't taking any chances. Yeah, I wish I had the $$ for a Wilburn....I don't think you get any better than that. I'm going to get some dyno time in a few months, once my build is done (again) and pull 2 runs on each of the pre-set curves on the dyna, and I'll put my plate at 0 to be fair. Then, I'll spend some time mapping curves, and post those dyno pulls as well....

Yep....gonna have to be BR9EGV for me.....(Dyna) I just gave away all my BR8ES plugs last night (4) and 2 BR8EGVs as well.... No sense in looking back...lol...

Tell you wife to go stock up on FBTs, it's gonna be some long nights and I get edgy when I'm hungry...LOL... :beer:

I agree....my 421 ran DAMN good with a pair of 35PWKs. Just pick another one up. The ONLY reason I sold them is because I'm going alky with a fuel pump, or I would've had no problem leaving them on there....

I have a thumb throttle extender if someone wants to give me 10 bucks for it, including the ride. It's just sitting in my tool box, I bought a brand new SRP complete thumb throttle. This is the one I got: http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...mp;navType=type

If that doesn't mark a man's integrity and character, I don't know what does. It's not secret here that I'm a big fan and friend of Jeff from FAST Racing, but...this is exactly why I continue to deal with FAST for my needs. Lil'Whiteboy, you don't have NEARLY enough mods to even mention the word lockup clutch. Here's what I'd do if I were you. Use three of the HD springs Jeff is going to send you, use three stockers, and get a new clutch perch removing the parking brake junk and get the EZ pull lever with it. It'll hold up just fine, and be easier to pull. To be honest, for 10 or 12 bucks, a brand new cable isn't a bad idea to compliment the whole thing.

On that, reded...I completely agree 100%. I love watching guys run stock stroke, stock bore OEM Cylinder drag bikes down the track trying to extract every last little bit out, a tenth here, tenth there. Nitrous if fun...don't get me wrong, but....building a naturally aspirated bike that runs well is a thrill as well, and...a lot less to worry about. NOS in the wrong hands can be bad....

Incorrect. Stock carbs need a boss drilled out and tapped, they use a locknut to hold them in place. If it were after market carbs, you would be correct, they normally use a spring to hold the screw from backing out. Look at the link I provided above, it is exactly what he is looking for on the stock carbs....

Sorry...I meant cranking compression....PSI 35's on a stock 350 ought to work just fine.

For that price plus shipping, it's cheaper to go to Pep Boys or AutoZone if you have one near you, right Banshee-Man? :wink: 1.89 each, no need to wait for them in the mail or pay for shipping....

FMF pipes in general like a fat pilot. 27.5 and 1.0 turns out should get you damn close...

Leave the stock pilot in unless you remove the air box completely.....

What kind of racing? drag, MX, hillshooting, TT, cross country....hare scrambles???

Real easy way to find out. His plug color could be coming from the pilot or needle circuits. Plug chops done properly don't lie: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Stock pilots, probably a 250 main because of that elevation, but....280 is safe to run a few plugs chops on. I'd say put the needle on the second clip from the blunt end (stock is middle, or third clip) Because of your very high elevation, you'll need to lean out the jetting as opposed to what us sea level monkeys use!! Also....when the time comes, get a timing plate and shave that cylinder head .030 to get back some lost compression from being up that high, you'll get noticeably better response.... Oh...and welcome to the HQ....

Glad to hear all is well....they do make drill bits that long, though....don't ask how I know.. :beer:

Don't think you're going to find them any cheaper than this: http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=372&page=1

Stock carbs are 26mm. Post the picture to be clear...but, you'll have to order a set of Idle Screw kits from Magic Racing, Rocky Mountain ATV, etc. The stock carbs do not come with idle screws on the carbs. Someone removed the TORS adjusters, drilled and tapped those screws for idle adjustment. They are the long, threaded brass type with a bullet rounded nose on the end, right?

You can check the coil and Stator with an OHM meter, CDI is more often than not good or bad. Check the flywheel, too...as said. Jetting richer than what your motor requires shouldn't be done, it won't get you more power, it will only load the bike up, foul plugs, etc. The key is to get the right mixture of gas an air to the engine is performing at it's best and most efficient.... Throwing more main jet in will not increase performance unless you're way too lean to begin with, and I don't think you are with FMFs and an airbox still.... The stock air box lid helps hold and seal the air filter to the box. If you remove the lid, the air filter will not seal properly. The Pro Design plate bolts to the front of the air box and seals, so....you can run NO lid and get a good seal.

Use a long, skinny drill bit from the other side.

Are these the stock carbs or after market? The idle control on the TORS or on the carb body itself?

Free bump for good pipes, good price. Dan, you can use Imageshack.us to host the pics for free, so you don't have to work so hard. Or....PM me and you can send them to my email, and I'll host 'em up for you....