dajogejr

Last year I ran on my bone stock motor, T5s, pod filters, lightened flywheel and +4 on a plate...100% stock ignition... 92 to 94 octane no issues whatsoever, but...I will say I'm certain mine was jetted spot on, too...I try to leave mine a hair on the side or rich rather than lean...

And John has forgotten more shit then I'll ever know...period. Funny thing is I see his recycled motors and chassis' over here in MI from a few of the GRR boys... Like I said in my PM to him (a reply to Aaron's, btw)... 98% of the people on here will tell you the same thing, they don't work or do anything. 2% are crack heads no matter where you go.... :shrug:

:wink: Glad to hear...wasn't that intimidating or tough, was it? Double check to make sure the slides are raising and lowering at the same time, call it a day!!! Oh, and DO not over tighten the throttle tops for the stock carbs, they will stick. Hand snug, then use the hold down L brackets on either side to keep them in place... :beer:

I'd spend time cleaning up the one you have then.... I bought a used Honda thumb throttle cause I read a post somewhere they had less pull. It ended up being all beat up, etc., and wasn't worth the time. I pitched my stocker, and just bit the bullet and bought the SRP one..... Good luck, bud....

Pull your plugs a few times while out riding, make sure there is no sign whatsoever of aluminum on them....just to be safe....

Son, go back to school...or send your "Track Mechanic" back to school. Maybe between the two of you, you'll learn to spell, punctuate, and your ass from a hole in the ground. Dyna says in the instructions it is designed to work with stock components. Obviously, reading and comprehending isn't one of your strong points, for you still believe in a boost bottle. Allow me to translate that for you. (That's a big word for explain, btw...) It does NOT say you can't use after market coils or wires, it says it is designed to work with stock OEM stuff. In other words, Dyna will not verify if it works with others because there are simply too many other ignitions out there to verify it works with. Their covering their ass. Funny you should mention a Dyna Engineer. Yes, as a matter of fact I have talked to one, the LEAD engineer at Dyna. Over on planetsand.com, his name is Brad_. I had a complete discussion with him if they'd work, he said yes as long as they're not placed to close together, and he recommended I use resistor plugs. Funny...with my Dyna and Nology Coil w/ Hotwires it ran fine, all year long....drag strip, a quick trail ride and a weekend at the dunes.... Let me asssure you there is nothing hillbilly about my bike. Every part on it has been tested and approved, and I've spoken to some very trusted names in this business. Hmm....who's the smart guy now?

Don't need to say anymore....go ride, and let your track side mechanic polish your boost bottle. I've probably been riding since you were a glint in mommy and daddy's eye...go read up on some pressure and temperature literature, and share it with your mechanic...

Sorry man, wish I had a quick idea... Pay a little now or a LOT more later... Here is the whole kit, what I got: http://www.magicracing.com/UPP-Chain-Slide...s_p_0-1058.html If fundages are tight, and I hear ya...here's just the front slider: http://www.magicracing.com/UPP-Chain-Slide...r_p_0-1069.html

One other thing, Brian... I'm not familiar with their Predator 90, so...forgive the stupid question. Is it two stroke or four? I'm assuming 2 stroke. Does it have oil injection? Possible leak/problem/plug in the oil injection system? Just throwing that out there....

Turn each air screw all the way in, lightly seated. Turn each one out .5 turns. warm the bike up. Go for a ride. Turn the air screws out another .5 turns, wait for the setting to take effect (20 seconds or so) go for another ride. Repeat this, until you get the highest idle and best response idle to 1/8 throttle. If you end up with less than 1.0 turns out, step up the pilot to a 27.5 (next biggest size) FMF pipes tend to like more fuel in the pilot...so, I wouldn't be surprised....

When you say big bore kit, how big do you mean? Also...what all do you have done to your bike now? Exhaust, Intakes (carb size) air filters, timing, compression, etc. 450's are fast, don't kid yourself. If you want to leave the 450 in the dust, open your wallet and get porting done. it will benefit you more than a big bore kit. Then get pipes to match your style of riding...if you trail ride, stay away from CPI or Shearer pipes. They are top end orientated drag style pipes. Think about T5's or Trinitys.

Hey Brian... Make sure you've covered the basics. Clean air filter, properly oiled and sealed? New plug? Next, check the wiring for a burnt spot, knicked spot, etc....check kill switches too. When I clean carbs, especially after sitting, I remove all jets, etc. I take a few strands of speaker wire....and clean the bejesus out of 'em. If the basics are good, no bad wires, time to check for an air leak using a leak down tester. Yes, even if it runs better with choke....it can still be a an air leak...

Second link looks just like the one I got. Love it, longer arm and adjustable stops. Here's mine: http://www.magicracing.com/SRP-Billet-Thum...p_308-1815.html

English 101? Please..... PVC will wear through quicker than it takes you to measure it, cut it...and install it. Get the UPP slider pack. It covers the front, the back...and both upper and lower rollers too.

Total 100% BS. The stock crossover tube does that just fine, and many have been running without one for ever and a day.... What Chase meant is the Choke tube, from one carb to the other, yeah...you need it. The only thing a boost bottle is good for is getting in the way and causing your intake boots to crack prematurely 'cause of the weight.... You will not have to tune your carbs more often if you're not running a boost bottle. Intake/Exhaust mods, temp changes and elevation changes can require jetting mods, not a Boost Bottle.... Get some bolts the same size...but make sure they are not "sticking out" into the inlet track. I'm sure someone here has a crossover tube they'd ship you for next to nothing....

Ever shake a can of spray paint with that ball inside? yeah, like that. And normally the motor don't last long when it does ping...

Just get 21cc and be done with it... I have two gas stations near me that sell 110 octane at the pump, all I've used...no issue. But I also run a lot of timing and compression, too... 19cc domes will put added strain on the stock crank. When you're ready, get it ported, shave the head, get the stock crank rebuilt and welded....then stick to 100% race gas. I'd see if a local gas station has it at the pump, I'd never pay VP prices for a 55 gallon barrel....

Nothing wrong with Pro Circuit pipes. When you want to get your cylinders ported and do more high RPM drag racing and dune riding, then it's time for CPI or Shearer pipes....they're a waste on stock port motors. You detroyed the dome more than likely because you didn't listen to your engine. At 800 feet above sea level, get 21cc domes unless you want to run a mix of race/pump fuel. No, you will not be ok with 91 octane and 19cc domes, I promise you... And your jetting might be a hair lean....if it were my bike, I'd put 340 mains in, do a proper plug chop and jet down if you have to...start out rich always.... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Tmac... If you don't raise the compression and go +4 on the timing, you'll be fine on premium pump fuel. A timing plate is 35 bucks. A Dyna ignition is close to 300. I have a Dyna, and I have a Nology...but, there's a lot of parts you can buy before you spend the money on a Dyna that will net more gain. Save your money, get a timing plate....and run premium fuel. Steer clear of octane boosters....they're more trouble than what they're worth...

What does pushing air/intake/filter type have anything to do with the need for race gas??? Compression and timing are the key factors for octane requirements...did I read your post wrong??

Well put. But...can you please turn the caps lock off? Normally it's reserved for shouting.... :beer:

Sorry...David Keith pointed out a good point. Let me reiterate the clearance numbers. Piston to wall clearance Metric (mm) .060 to .065 American .0024 to .0026 Ring End Gap Metric (mm) .30 to .45 American .012 to .018. Ring Service Limit (replacement) Metric (mm) .5 American .020 Sorry for any confusion.

So you didn't measure a thing, just honed 'em and guessed? Ballzy my friend, very ballzy. You can spend a little now or a lot more later. Sorry to say it, but I would take the cylinders to a machine shop, have them measured properly. New Piston/Bore clearance should be .060 to .065 Ring End Gap Clearance: .012 to .018 and if they're at or more than .020, trash them. You really need to get a clymers manual, new pistons, and take the jugs and pistons to the machine shop. If you think you're on a tight budget now, wait till you lock up a crank...

I ended up buying a whole new throttle assembly, wanted a nice new one that was adjustable too. The few times I used it, it's ok.... Let me look in my toolbox/box of parts and I'll PM you the details. I can ship on Monday, if you'd like..... :beer:

They're not going to even out that much, if they do....and that's more than 10%. Base gasket leaking won't effect the static compression reading, only the leak down test. You have another problem, could be improper clearances, bad seal on the head, or that bad dome...