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Everything posted by dajogejr
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98 banshee with mods,which octane to run?
dajogejr replied to snakeman52646's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
I run 185PSi or so in my cub, NOSS Head, not sure on dome size....big bore domes. I run 110 octane all day. (Switching to alky...) But, I'm 100% certain my squish clearance is acceptable....no pinging, detonating or preignition... Normally I'd say the tester itself is suspect...but, if you're running that much compression, with 113 octane gas and only 4 degrees of timing, yeah....that head is fubar.... Get a NOSS head or another stocker, and have .025 or .030 milled off. PM Rocketboy here, I know he machines them...and might have one laying around. -
98 banshee with mods,which octane to run?
dajogejr replied to snakeman52646's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Someone cut that head too thin. Get a new one. NO WAY you should have that much compression...period. Not to mention, that is going to destroy that crank if it hasn't been welded. I'd bet the squish is so tight, it's only a matter of time before that thing gernades... -
Double nut that bitch. Lock one against the other. If the threads are in any kind of good shape, it simply will not come off, no loctite needed.
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He he....JT and I are gonna have some good races this next year, I can't wait!!! He has the faster bike...no doubt. Keep in mind, JT was GIVING me the leave at Silver Lake. Our bikes are same motor. Mine is (was) on gas, 35PWKs, stock port cub (just cleaned up) with all new ignition, stock tranny, stock clutch. JT's is on alky, override tranny, lockup, drag port, and lower than mine. Plus...he's geared one taller in the front, and I think his paddles are a hair bigger than mine, not sure. What you see in this race is exactly what I expected going into the weekend. Him and I are very close in weight, I'd say....right JT? I knew I'd give him a pretty good race...but, the longer it got...the worse it would be for me. Until you ride a bike with an override and lockup, you're kidding yourself, really. My bike ran damn fine all weekend, but....I'm going bigger and better too. JT's bike has a better flowing Pingel Valve, HUGE floatbowls and a float missing out of each carb...and I'd still be a little nervous without a fuel pump longer than 300 or so feet. The fuel pump might be 40 bucks, but....you'll need carbs setup to run a fuel pump. Older sled carbs use fuel pumps....so, figure that in the cost. But, I won't even think of running alky without one!!!
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This post is over a year old, why dig it up? I'm pretty sure if he hasn't figured out the starting problem, he's not going to by now... If you have lower compression...as in 150ish or less, you're wasting money or race fuel and actually probably hurting performance...
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Color looks pretty good....Ideally you want a 2mm ring. However...who's to say it didn't get smeared a bit from sawing, etc. Yes, a little rich...not by much. Better safe than sorry...
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Wes, I'm sure I don't have to explain this to you....but, it will help others reading. A dyna is not a static curve throghout the RPM range. You can advance it more at low RPMs, and less at Higher RPMs so the motor spins freely. A plate...well, that's advancing statcially across the board. I think you'll agree that with a static advance, it'll give you a little more down low....but possibly hurt top end at peak revs. Enter the dyna, more advance at lower RPMs as needed, less at higher RPMs. Do I have proof or dyno sheets of this, no.... I've read a user tweaking an extra 8 out of his bike with the dyna. I do not know the extent of his mods, but I'm 100% certain the number was 8. As said, I will post up my dyno results when done. I'm optimistic...if I get a couple of horsepower out of mine, I'll be fine. I think where it will really come into play is...quicker response, cleaner revs overall....and possibly a smoother power delivery the cubs aren't known for. But, I really bought my dyna since my OEM was cracked where the wires are, figured why not try it....to be honest. **EDIT*** Just reread your post wes, and to answer your question, I run 8 on my plate AND curve 3 on the dyna... At the most advanced it comes in just under 30 deg. total....then, tapers off...
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Go to your room now, Son... :yelrotflmao: Thanks, baddshee...I just happen to have a lot of time on my hands at work and at home....
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Are you going to richen up the main as well?
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Simple...because he rides trails.
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I don't.... But to each is own. When I get mine done, I'll get a bunch of dyno runs with the stock and other 3 curves on it....then, I'll post results with modified curves. Gonna be a few months, I got a major change coming up...but, I'll post it up in a nice write up when done....
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Yep.... Put a 30 pilot in, 1.0 to 1.5 turns out. .5 turns out is too little in the adjustment range, and...when it's dead cold, you should have to use 1/2 or full choke if the temps are mild to cold....
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Yeah, no shit... I think I need to do 100MPH to ride my bike to a buddie's to play video games. That kid needs a pedal bike and an Atari...and to sit in the corner of the room quietly... :beer: :yelrotflmao:
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No....but there is a 300ft sand drag track 2 hours away, and Silver Lake sand dunes are about 4 to 4.5 hours away....and, yes, since I went cub....it's dune/drag only. I tried to keep mine tame, T5 pipes and stock carbs. yeah, it ran....and it put down 85 HP on a dyno....but, I didn't like it. Since then, I've gone RDZ/Shearer inframe pipes, had 35PWK carbs, and an all new ignition. If I had to guess...it was about 95HP, give or take. However, now I'm going closer to drag as well. Dunable override tranny, lockup clutch and putting it on alcohol.... I'm hoping to be around 105HP or so when done..... If you're going to put a cub motor together, you absolutely must have an override tranny, and it's a good idea to get a lockup clutch too. Stock Tranny and no lockup clutch, that bike won't shift. Trust me on that.... If you wanna be fast in trails, get a 4 stroke with a pipe, cam...air filter, jet it....and have fun all day long. If you wanna drag race and have fun in the dunes, stick to the banshee and some cubs. Trust me when I say this, once you go cub, forget about the trails. You'll need to set the bike up to get that power to the ground. Which means more tire and a longer swingarm...or you'll spend all day doing one of two things, frying tires or pointing skyward. In my opinion...it sounds like you need a good dune/play port on your stock cylinders....you're thinking about a cub....but it won't be happy with what you're trying to do!!
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I don't care what came in that kit, and what Toomey says....your mains are way lean. glamis is very close to sea level, and probably 75 degrees or better. You are going to wreck that motor if you keep running it that lean. 320 to 340 is the average. I'd take the reeds back off, make sure all gasket surfaces are clean and use a small, thin coat layer of hi temp RTV to seal the reeds. You don't have a boost bottle, by chance...do you? Once it's sealed up, start it up and spray the intake area down with carb cleaner to try and isolate a leak. If it doesn't die out...or bog bad from the spray, take it for a ride. Did you put the TORS removal kit on? Did you sync the carbs? Do you have 25 (stock) or 27.5 pilots in there???
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Sort of...If the slides are in backwards, they will shut all the way and there will be NO cutout facing the rear....so it won't idle....and low speed RPM will totaly blow....
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what is the differnce between T5 AND T6
dajogejr replied to charles's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
T6's were designed to run at or near stock porting and port timings. You can clean up and port the engines a little bit and T6s will work just fine. But, if you're going very aggressive on the ports and timings, T5s are a better choice... You might want to PM Lee, the board admin, and ask him to delete the other two posts... While I'm not going to call you a fucking retard...I would advise you to use the search button. Pipes are probably one of the most covered topics....and absorb what you read... -
Unless Jim's dune port like HUGE pilots, I'd say you're way fat there. Rings look pretty good. Maybe a hair bigger than 2mm...which, just means you're probably a hair rich, and SAFE... I'd try 27.5 pilots, to be honest. 30 is the largest I'd go.... If it runs clean, leave it. 4 clip on stock needles? I'm assuming you mean 4th clip from the blunt end, I wouldn't doubt a good dune port wants more fuel in the middle... They look pretty good overall....
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That's cylinders them selves. Next is a head....cut domes. New pistons. Longer swingarm. Better clutch, longer chain, better tires..... true and welded crank if you don't buy a whole new crank all together. Although they'll run ok on regular pipes (a la T5's, FMF, etc.) they really are a top end cylinder, so....CPI pipes, Shearer Pipes.... Bigger carbs to compliment them...new intakes.... Bottom line is this, and it's been said a million times. A cheetah cub is not a trail worthy cylinder, all kinds of the wrong kind of power type for trails.... Yes, you can TRY and choke a cub down to do more, but ...in reality, it's a dune/drag style cylinder. And...yes, this is coming from experience.... :beer:
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It's gotta be for the brake light then.... I doubt an 06 has a "low fluid level" light, which is about the only other thing it coule be. Sorry for the obvious question....but, my 96 never had anything from the front master!!!
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Can you answer my question? Are you running POD Filters, NO airbox?
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If you mean just porting....yes, you're correct. But I've seen stock cylinder, stock stroke drag banshees (yes, drag frame, pipes, alky) etc., in low 4's all day long, no bottle. Put the bottle on 'em, and they're sub 4 bikes pretty easily.... Yes, they are drag ported and the works....but, I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to as far as "a ported banshee"... Sure....those DS's are fast bikes, put half that money in a banshee and it will that fast and more.....all day long.
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Let's start from scratch... What are ALL of your current mods? What temp and elevation do you ride at? What carbs are currently on the bike? If you are using stock carbs, thumb or twist, did you properly disconnect and remove ALL TORS hardware? If you're using stock carbs, did you drill them and install the idle screw kits for them? Did you get the TORS removal throttle cable (thumb)??
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Are you sure it's not coming out of the Thumb Throttle housing?
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Smoke...probably not. Backfire, yep....sure can. It kills the ignition....

