dajogejr

WHAT? A. don't ride double unless someone broke down and you have to get them back to camp B. Wear a helmet. Save the BSing for after or before the ride... Don't be a schmuck and ruin it for us who obey the rules.

Adjust the air screws when it's warmed up for better response, but....to be honest, if it runs fine once warmed up, I'd leave it be.

I think your squish is ok....or within acceptable, anyways. I'd check the piston ad JT said. I'm not sure what size domes I bought, but...I think they're 19cc or so. You didn't get that thing drag ported, did you?

If you mean a bunch of cold cutter screws, you're bascially wasting your time, unless they're just in the fronts. You need shaved off knobs and actual ice picks made for sled tracks... Here's a pic of the ones I'm picking up: (NOT my bike, but I'm buying his tires) http://www.planetsand.com/memberphotos/566288-100_1364.JPG

You're not going to get 60lbs more out of a thinner base gasket. You'd be lucky to get 10 to 15, and by then...the squish would be too small and risk causing damage. If it's making power at 4500RPM you're probably doing fine. Mine doesn't start making real power until 6K or so, and I've got more compression, more timing AND a tighter squish....

Money and good lawyers.... Obviously if you have both, you quite literally can get away with murder...

Worse...it's a book, and he's doing a TV interview to talk about it. Damn he was funny in the Naked Gun movies....NORDBERG!!!! What a scum bag. That's as bad as Bill Clinton making a book, "I didn't smoke dope, but if I did, here's how I'd do it". Or... "I did not have sexual relations with that woman, but...if I did, I would've banged her this way.."

DAvid JOseph GErmain JR I'm not that creative....plus it's odd enough, so...no one ever takes it... Funny thing is, Hilarious' name is David Germain too...but, I'm older...so I guess that makes me the ...uh, Sr.?? LOL :beer:

ooh....yeahhhh.... My buddy doesn't get it. He's got a formula 3 skidoo piped and clutched, 98, with about 8K miles on it. I keep telling him it's gonna be a good race and he's gonna be surprised what a little banshee can do...so, he'll just have to see for himself. Picking up some picked tires hopefully this weekend!!

I think we're over thinking this a bit. What exactly are you trying to accomplish, hide, do....etc.? You can put a 4 mil crank in, get the ports matched on the cylinder, run 795 series wiseco pistons, and get your stock head cut and re-chambered....and NO One would be able to tell the difference on the outside....is this what you're looking for? are you looking to stay stock 350? I think you're wasting time with a bigger crank, if your motor is not already ported. What type of riding is this for? Give us the WHOLE story, and we can help better.....

My bet is you won't notice much of a difference. Whistling? Is it possible they're leaking at the header/stinger tube meeting spot?

I'm only a legend because I'm a post whore...LOL... cc's depend on bore AND stroke. Whenever you add (or...uh, subtract) from either of those, you change the cc of the motor. Someone help me, I'm a little rusty and I'm not math wiz, but.... It's bore X bore X Stroke X .somethin to figure out displacement, right? Here...this is a calculator. Stock stroke on a banshee is 54mm. Stock bore is 64mm. 0 deck height, on 2 cylinders, that gives you 347cc. (The stock cc of a banshee, bone stock, rounded up to...yep, 350cc.) Now, my motor is a 68mm bore, 4 mil stroke (58 mm( engine. Which, gives me 421cc. If I ONLY had the 68mm pistons, it would be 392cc. But, I add 4mil of stroke, to get 421cc. See for yourself. http://home.earthlink.net/~jalby/puter.htm

Or a thicker strand of speaker wire, and a lot of brake cleaner...

Yep, what I did ^^ Then, took a coarse scotchbrite pad and angle die grinder to smooth her out. I use a bit of high temp RTV skin coat to seal...as well.

WHAT?? You can run as big of a crank as you want in stock cases, but...after you go bigger than 4mil they have to be trenched, or...grooves machined into the bottom half of the case so the crank journals don't hit/smack. Once you go bigger than stock crank, you'll be bigger than 350cc. Once you overbore the cylinder more than .030, you'll be bigger than 350cc. Who said anything about bigger pistons? We're strictly talking about the crank.

Ok...thanks! 260ish on the mains then. 280 no lid, 320 to 340 with no airbox, pod filters. Fatty's like a larger pilot...but, with an airbox AND the lid, I'd say one step up to 27.5 will do you right.

To be honest, if you're going to use a 14 mil crank, you're already going to have an aftermarket cylinder. I'm not 100% sure if you can change the porting on a stock cylinder to 14mm port timings. I think 10 is as big as you can realistically go on OEM jugs. That being said.... Once you go that big, you're going to get a cylinder already ported, or that needs to be ported to run right, and you're talking about a drag race quad, so...larger carbs are a given. It's a given, just as saying "well, you have a keith black top fuel Hemi motor"... You wouldn't put the Holley 650 off your daddy's 350 chevy on that thing? Once you get into 7mil and larger strokes, you're in drag bike/hard core dune bike territory and aftermarket cylinders. Bigger carbs are a must....

Maybe we're overlooking the obvious. Do you have the TORS removed and properly disconnected?

Nope...not so the case. Stock carbs will power a stroker just fine. Now...if you want to talk about power gains, sure...bigger carbs help if the engine is setup to breathe properly, a la porting, etc. Longer stroke, longer rods generally ad a few HP and some torque...but they won't set your hair on fire. I think I read a 4mil long rod crank is good for 7% increase in power. Nothing earth shattering... A good port job, pipes and bigger carbs are where the power is.

http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=168

Stock is 210 in 87 to 89, 90 to current stock main is 200. A dealer may change out the main if they are in extreme cold temps or very high elevation to compensate. By two into one air filter....do you mean the airbox is gone all together? If so, get 27.5 pilots (one size up from stock) and 280 Mains. The fact you can't run wide open long probably doesn't change the fact you need richer mains than that with pipes at sea level....

Call Jeff @ FAST Racing. His clutch I think it about 10 bucks more than the box stock EBC or Barnett, and worlds better. With your motor, you can use 3HD springs and 3 stock springs, and I promise it won't slip or fade (as long as it's adjusted correctly) www.farmandsandtoys.com I ran his with similar mods you have now all last year, and I more than doubled the output of my motor by going to my 4 mil cub, it's still holding up just fine....

I'm confused as all hell? Porting and exhaust have more to do with the "need" or "use" of bigger carbs more than the crank. What exactly are you trying to figure out/contemplate?

You won't gain much (lose much, make that) squish clearance by going to a smaller cc dome, if the squish angle on the dome is cut the same as the previous dome.... I agree, at that elevation the comp sounds kinda low, unless someone got their hands on that motor and gave it a helluva drag port. I run 185PSI in mine, on gas...with a great igntion system and a TON of timing, and I still wouldn't write home to mom about the bottom end. Just not in the nature of this beast...plus, Shearer style inframes don't help bottom.... Here's the tricky part. You're gonna have to mock up that motor with different thickness base gaskets to get the desired squish. I believe mine is at .045.... I agree with JT...you're gonna have to listen to the motor. It will tell you...but not for very long. Once you start to see the evidence of it on your spark plugs (spotting of aluminum) it's too late.

welcome, I love to type...but, I think they can explain it in detail much better than I could attempt to. Why reinvent the wheel...right? :beer: