dajogejr

Hey...all valid points... I have Shearer pipes, they go up and over the filters/carbs. No worries there. I cleaned up my wiring considerably, using plastic flex automotive style tub and zip ties... Some pipes just don't clear the outerwears...I hear ya. They make bigger, angled outerwears, have you though about checking out some of them?? Yep, when buds and I play roost wars, it gets bad, I agree there.

Pink? I thought Jeff was more of a purple kinda guy? Just when you think you know someone... Happy B Day Jeff! :beer:

It's not just the extra clip groove, they're a different taper, thickness and length than stock needles. Supposedly, stock needles give a lean spot in the middle when you go Toomey Pipes and no airbox...from what I've gathered. My bike ran just fine with them. However, I got the Toomey/Dynojet needles and jets from Magic Racing on clearance for 19.99. The needles alone are more money than that...I called Toomey Direct... So, it was worth it...my bike ran good when it was stock. I wouldn't say it's leaps and bounds different...but, it ran good with stock needles too...for what it's worth...

I agree...ditch the airbox if mud and water aren't concerns. Even if it gives the exact same performance (which, it will increase a bit) it is sooo much cleaner and easier to work on. NO more fighting w/ boots and airbox for any carb tuning, etc...

Kevin, I'm not 100% sure on that. I bought the Toomey Dyno-jet kit last year, only for the needles...but it came with Mikuni Main jets in it, 270 and 280s. I'd stick to Mikuni branded jets....I don't know if DynoJet uses the same number scheme/size and Mikuni factory jets....sorry...

Whooaaa....blast from the past... Depends on how you want to make your power. First off, stock timing or advanced? How much compression? As I'm sure you're aware....they have all kinds of top end power. If you want to dune more than drag race, get CPI pipes and 35 PWK carbs. If you want to drag race more than dune, 35 or 39mm carbs, Shearer pipes. Shearers usually make the most power, but in a narrower range than CPIs.... 35's will give you a little better throttle response, but 39's will give you a hair more on top end. So...pick/match the combo you want.

T5s are the same... Flip that bottom coolant hose around....the end close to the radiator has a plastic spring around it.... You can twist the tube a little bit and then clamp it down to keep it there (hose clamp)... Happens, don't worry about it...

Yeah, I don't know what it is.... I need to get a boost bottle and start smoking my meals I guess....

Jeff does at FAST Racing.... www.farmandsandtoys.com

Probably a few ponies, but it will be seat of the pants noticeable, and pickup some of the lost bottom to mid range.

Well guys...this is what it boils down to. I wrote him a PM (actually replied to his) and told him Alba and Duncan doesn't impress me with their banshee motors. I told him I live in MI, where we have some of the top builders in the country. A&S, Grand River Racing, RDZ...etc. Here's his reply to that: those guysa are not shit fagot so go F Your self where are your hot banshee pics we can see plenty of mine but all i see in yours is this old ass dragg banshee So...basically, some of the top builders in the country...aren't shit. Yep...you're the man. Aaron, here's my banshee....in action son. Come get some.... http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6136815352508756093

Stock needles have 5 grooves, middle is stock position. DynoJet are longer, skinnier needles and have 6 grooves, 4th clip down from the blunt end is standard.... I didn't read the whole thread, but no matter what needles you put in....Main Jet doesn't matter... You shouldn't have to run a certain main jet for any needle... SoCal...drag porting is your wild card. Start big, go leaner from there...

Burned the midnight oil many a night myself.... I'd make sure you didn't unplug any wires, you're SURE it's getting GOOD spark?

Hey...Bobby... Last I checked with RS, they MAKE all their own parts in house, so...they would be directly at fault... Just fyi... Jared...I bought a brand new stock Watt stator and plate from RS earlier this year, no issues like you're speaking of. Give it the AK treatment. Just pull that jammy out, it'll scare it enough to loosen up them screws... :beer:

Washburn... Did you replace that line that goes from carb to carb (Choke tube?) That'll put a damper on your project real quick...

Depending on where you're at...and how soon/often you plan on riding...you might want to go with 280s and work your way down. My Fellow Michigan brothers, it is starting to get cold out...so, time to richen them up!! Otherwise, yeah...260 is probably about right with a box and lid...

The adjuster at the twist throttle is for taking out the majority of the slack. once that is done, all fine tuning is done with the adjusters on top of the carbs. You should have a little slack before they open, or else R's are gonna rise when you make a turn... Do you have the idle screw kits installed? Yeah, Jeff sells the syncrometer, as wes said....it is the bomb and foolproof to use!

2001...sorry to muddy up the thread. I hope at the very least you are entertained...if not informed from all this. I'm done with this clown... Your credibility is in the shitter....from just about every post you've made you've proved your ignorance. I think I'm gonna go watch paint dry...seems to be a better use of my time than this guy... (Oh...and by the way, you can stop with the "tough guy" stuff...I never acted tough, never threatened you, etc. And I won't.... Talking tough to a screen with a keyboard is almost as pointless as your advice and a boost bottle. I will however continue to tell you you're full of shit, probably quite often, too.) Gonna go Join Aaron D. now, take a few more water hits off this here boost bottle.... Smoke 'em if you got 'em....

We've already decided the facts. You don't know shit, and have proved it. So...now we're just talking smack....the facts have already been set in stone. 1. You setup your bikes for long endurance racing? You...or your mechanic...Cletus? I'm confused, do you do your own work, or does your mechanic? 2. You work for a technical job? I'm proud of you, I'm sure you can measure out how much bleach per gallons of water it takes to scrub a toilet. Cause that's about as much sense as your math and reasoning makes to me....and others. The last time I got into a heated BOOST bottle discussion...yep, it was with another Duncan Racing fan....who, just like you...said the SAME EXACT THING. You are telling me it works. I am telling you it doesn't. (Oh, and everybody else is telling you it doesn't too...but, they don't know shit either)... You need me to prove it to you because you need a security blanket on why you wasted your 20 bucks, cause obviously you don't have a clue. Tell you what....I'm redoing my bike right now. NO, not cause the motor needs it, I'm going with a different tranny, clutch, etc. And alky. I will pull as many dyno runs as you want, without the bottle. then, I will put it on...(someone please send me one....I gave my last one away for shipping). If you are right, I will publicly tell everyone how great they are, etc....as well as send Lenny and Loren Duncan a note asking for a dozen of them...cause they're that damn good. If you're wrong....you pay for my gas, dyno time, and return shipping on the boost bottle I will have to borrow.... So...Joe Dirt, what's it gonna be? Whaa burger and French Cries? Thought so....

I'd look in the for sale here and on PlanetSand.com I know Graydon used to make a pretty nice one. Try Cascade innovations as well, they have it standard and polished to a mirror finish: http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...TORE_DEPT_ID=87

Gaging by how my timing plate is....I'd say this. If you machine 4mm off each hole, counterclockwise to their location now....that's about as close as you're gonna get it. Each degree was roughly 1mm on the plate adjustment...give or take. When I say counterclockwise, I mean if you're looking at it as mounted on the bike, you need the plate to move clockwise to advance the timing, so...the holes will have to be elongated counterclockwise.... I hope that makes sense. If anyone else has better measurements, please pipe in!!

Yeah, he just PM'd me and said he rode for 6 hours....what did I do? (I guess having a full time mechanic allows you to do that....) Unfortunately, since I don't live at home with Mom and Dad, haven't since I was 17...I had other equally important stuff to do. Hmm...yard work, house cleaning...ya know, stuff like that Mommy and Daddy can't do for you when you don't live with them. I've rode plenty this year, and will ride even more next on some long week trips.... I have no desire to ride 6 hours non-stop on a banshee...not my thing. Ride for a bit, sit and BS with buddies...that's what I'm all about. I think it's safe to say...a lot of dune riders are that way. Ride, relax, have a smoke....BS, get to know each other, make friends, meet new people....etc. Then again, what do I know?

I don't need to give you a physics and mathematical reason or proof on why they don't work. (However, get your mechanic from that bar parking lot, I will be teaching English 101, Hooked on Phonics, Spelling and Proper Grammar down the hall, first door on the left. I strongly suggest you and Cletus join in the festivities....) We've got various members on this board from newbies to experienced tuners, riders, racers, builders, etc., telling you they don't do squat. So, they're all wrong and you and Bo-Bo are right? Ok...got it. About that Dyna... I know what you said, I know what I said. I also said I talked to the lead Dyna Engineer....HAVE YOU? No...stfu. Without the boost bottle it will run but it will be more temperamental? WTF does that mean? Oh...snap, Cooter my mechanic has to wrench on my ride more because I don't have a boost bottle... :shoothead: Yes, my bike is setup for Dune/Drag racing. Do you think I bought it that way? No...I've gone through the evolution just like anyone else. Stock, pipes, jets...motor work, different cylinders, pipes, suspension, etc.... And my buddies banshees that I tune are no where NEAR drag/dune bikes. Piped banshees that are jetted, that's about it. I've never claimed to know much, know it all or any of that stuff....there are plenty on this board that know leaps and bounds more than me. However, it's clear to anyone reading this that you don't know shit.....(and I doubt you can spell it or even use it in a punctuated sentence properly, either....)

Lucky bastard....two of them. One blows....ride the other. And they're both newer than my 96 dinosaur.. Although, there's not much left on mine from 96, more like 2006...so, what year does that make it?? :yelrotflmao: :beer:

You should be ok with +7 now and stock head. LISTEN to your motor though. However, I think once you get your head milled, depending on how much you go...you should back it off to +4... There are no gaurentees, only averages. If I had to guess, I'd say .020 off the head and +4 will be safe for premium pump gas, but...make sure your jetting is spot on, and listen to your motor, check your plugs freequently, etc. No way anyone can tell you with 100% certainty if it'll be safe....