dajogejr

If I could answer that....I'd make the cranks myself...LOL...

badassbanshee and I really want to go, but he's working on his bike last minute too. I'd say later in the year we can both make it down there with a crew to go....just bad timing this year!

New Baltimore is 20 minutes away from me. Those crank webs are blanks...so, you'd have to have someone drill them, obviously, other than that...press and fit. And of course a quick weld on the journals. Hmm...I got a buddy that makes his own cranks, wonder if he knows about this.... And when I say drill them, I'm not talking put it in a vice and go to town with your dad's DeWalt...LOL.... :biggrin: That is a very good price..by the way.

Honestly, save our money and get boyseen reeds for your stock cages. Ask Bob to clean up your stock cages a bit...and you'll be in great shape. Considering how cheap (price wise) his porting is, I'm sure it won't be much to clean up your cages. Tell Bob I said hi...helluva nice guy I hope I get a chance to meet up with sometime this year!!

Fine Travis...if my ignition isn't good enough for you just say so....LOL :yelrotflmao: I'm still on my pipe search. Other than that...same boat as you. Got everything I need. I should have a pretty good idea what bolts I'll have left over this weekend...as well. Haven't forgotten about that, either. First trip for me this year looks to be third weekend in April to our dunes. Wish I could find a track open for some test and tune before then... I really wish I could meet up with you boys and girls for that trip. I've got to meet Jeff in person to hand him his "Good for one FBT coupon..."....LOL!!

I would say CPI if you plan on duning more than drag racing. If you want to drag race, get the Shearers.... Only fit problem I had with my Shearers was the left pipe against the head...and about 1/2 inch shim takes care of that....

I think it hit about 70 here yesterday. I put the heat at my house yesterday at 60...and it was 60 when I got home. I opened the windows up...and it actually warmed up my house to 65 in an hour or so.... Yeah, sure was nice!!! Supposed to be cold and snow/rain mix by the weekend. Just a little tease was all, but...there were a ton of bikes out on the road by me yesterday...lucky bastards!! I wonder if our temps yesterday were a record for March or not...hmmm.... (You southern climate/CA boys and girls pipe down...we already know....) :biggrin:

Yes...I'd get VForce if you can afford them since you're going with some porting. While you're at it...get the crank welded for reliability....upping the compression AND porting will stress the stock crank a bit more. Don't forget, put a timing plate on and advance it 4 to 6 degrees as well. You're gonna need at least a mix of pump/race gas after that...if not 100% race gas.... What kind of riding do you plan on doing? Once ported, a good set of 28 to 33PWK carbs might be a better investment than the reed cages. Just my .02.

Travis... Are you "waiting" on ignition parts? I've got a Nology w/ hotwires and a dyna with 95-96 harness on it. If it doesn't come through, let me know....I'll borrow you whatever you need bro. I could throw you my stator and timing plate too so you don't have to cut wires/harnesses. (I've got a drag harness, though...no lights.) Let me know!

If you post a pic of the cylinder(s) we can probably help identify it. Top, bottom and side view...

OK... I didn't read this whole post, kinda skimmed it...so, if this was said, I apologize for repeating. Don't mill your head to raise compression for a quick fix. Bad idea. You know the engine is already worn, by putting more compression on already weak/worn pistons and rings, you're asking for more failure. I personally wouldn't go more than .030. Are you prepared to weld the crank too...with more compression? Just lookin out bro.

No... Are you planning on using a stock cylinder...or cub motor? If you're gonna stroke a bike, get 4 or 10. Bigger than 4, the cases have to be trenched anyways....and the cranks are the same price for 7 or 10. For 7 or 10 mil cranks, porting will have to be changed on the cylinders (again, if OEM) as well as a special cut head...and possibility of a spacer plate. If I had to take a wild guess here, you'll get a 7% increase in power over stock with the 4 mil. Probably a 3 to 4% increase from 4 to 7%, and again 3-4% from 7 to 10 mil. Don't quote me on these numbers...they are pretty rough at best....

I ran stock gearing on my 4 mil, launched in second....worked great....stock tranny no lockup. However, my new bike will be 1-5, and I'm taking advantage of 1st gear too. It should launch in 1st gear with 16-41 gearing as wes said...no problem.

I sure wish I could for you. My bike is in pieces....LOL....as you now see it in my sig. I think Firehead has got you hooked up!!!

Spec for the coolant cap is 13.5 to 17.8 PSI....if that helps firehead!!

Holy Christ....I just gave myself a headache TRYING to read that....

To me...in this instance, paddles are the wrong tire....

I would take the left and right side off first, and check everything out for play, movement, etc. Possibly a clip or spring coming loose, etc. I know you just built that motor last year, i'd be surprised if the crank or pistons/cylinders were out of whack...but, stranger things have happened.... With the sides off, jack the back end up so you can put it in gear and spin the tires...maybe that will expose the clicking or popping as well. Best of luck Dave!!

Oh no...Mark. Don't take that as you "write too much"...I just meant I was lazy and didn't want to type all you just did... I've done my fair share of typing...and as I told you before, I enjoy and appreciate your insight and knowledge you bring to the HQ... I ran 185PSI and a SHIT LOAD of timing on my 4 mil with race fuel. I plan on running the same compression and timing on my 10 mil. So...pretty much same size bore (68mm) and a longer stroke crank. The rest is pretty much the same... And I think you'll also agree that the size of the water jackets in OEM cylinders pale in comparison to cub cylinders...thus, better cooling. From the strip to the dunes, my bike never had any heat problems. I don't forsee any in my new 10mil on alky, either... I'm not varying too much from my proven setup in my old 4 mil, compression and timing-wise. On that note, I've had the same radiator cap on my bike which is OEM...from 96. Probably be a good idea to test it out, and at the very least replace it as well. Not sure what the system pressure is for the bike, I'd bet it's in a clymers manual...though!!

Yep yep....was thinking the same thing, you just have more than enough time on your hands to type all that...LOL. I think it's based on the "ice slick" and less cleanup time as well in case someone goes pop down the strip.... Never had an overheating problem with straight water...and that was on race fuel. With alky, the bikes only gonna run cooler, so...I'll be sticking with water!!

To be honest, very good question. I just run straight water because I know your day to day antifreeze coolant is a no no. I also ran straight water all year in my cub, regardless....but I did drain some and added antifreeze once the temps dipped end of last year...

To be honest...capacity wise I'm not sure. I fill the radiator to the top, then I squeeze the lower hose going from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator to "burb" any air bubbles. Fill it to the top again. And ride. Then...check it again. However, for the pavement drag strip, you're required to run 100% water, and have a catch can. So...for that I'll just fasten up a pop bottle, etc., just like everyone else.

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to be honest, banchetta....I've never jetted a bike with PC pipes. The only bikes I jetted that liked that fat a pilot were FMF pipes. The majority of bikes I jetted were T5's, with a few oddballs thrown in there, Bills, older toomeys, etc. I'd be he'd be ok with 27.5....

Do you have your stock coolant overflow tank? I'd bet the radiator was overfull, my guess. The stock design traps coolant and air since the hose passes under your tank to your seat...some people relocate them to the font of the bike. I don't run one. There's a big to do discussion about if that's a recirculation tank or not. I say it's not. Others say it is. My point is I never had one on any of my CR dirt bikes....so...how can it recirculate? Anyways, keep an eye on it at the radiator, and check your plugs....probably just a cracked hose would be my guess too....