dajogejr

I'm thinking by your screen name you're a Michigan boy... Look no further. IF they've never been bored, and the bike didn't grenade on you, .020 should be ok. You'd be wasting a bore if you went from stock to .030... Here's everything you need but the coolant and machine work. http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

Hard to tell if the bottom, mid or top is fouling the plugs. This will dial your mains in: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

You don't need Marvin Shaws.... You need better tires as said....

Got a test PC, brand new HP at work with Vista Business. I used it for 2 weeks..and I can say we won't be migrating anytime soon. First thing you have to do is turn off that stupid user level access control....what a waste IMO. And it was just plain buggy...period. XP Pro for a long time for me...

My best guess is 27.5 pilots, and 290 to 320 mains. Air screw can vary from 1.0 to 2.5 turns out... Get a clymers....removing the needle really isn't that tough, you need to be able to check that. Also...make sure the slides are in the right carb (the cutout at the bottom should face the rear) Make sure the bowls are on the correct carb, and make sure the choke tube is connected from the left to right carb.

Without having any idea what your temps, mods or elevation are...sure.... 1.0 to 2.5 is the effective range of the air screw. The best way to set the air screw is warm the bike up completely. Turn each air screw in till lightly seated. Back it out .5 turns. Wait 20 seconds for the adjustment to "take". Go for a ride. Do this again. When you get the highest idle out of the air screws, they're set. 1.0 out is a perfectly fine adjustment.

Compression then leak down test to check for air leaks.

Sorry...I should've added, remove the paper backing, cut it away. Easiest way to cut insulation is smoosh it onto the ground, and use a blade. Then remove the paper by cutting or peeling. Pack what you need...

Yeah, I'd do a leak down test Dan.... Do the simple things, too... Check the air gap on the flywheel/pickup. I'm assuming you're using fresh spark plugs. Swap coil wires, see if it follows the wire.

Thanks Fire.... I know I bought my a arm kit off ebay for my 96 frame...but my new bike has bronze bushings in the drag J Arms....wasn't sure who sold them!!

I'm 25 minutes away from you, and if it's 65 to 75...I'm moving to Livonia.... It's only 40's here, and not supposed to get much over 50s for the next couple of days... I'd say 250 or 240....for the cold we're in now. Once it starts warming up (hurry up please..lol) I'd say 240 to 230...as Banchetta said.

Reread his post...partner. The first post says his idle screw is almost all the way in, not the air screw.... That tells me it's trying to get more air in (via a raised slide) because it's getting way too much fuel. Unless he got the idle and the air screw confused.... Rob, please confirm whether you mean the actual idle speed screw or the air mixture screw.

I agree with the above....I live in MI, and all my buds bikes used 25 pilots if they kept the airbox, 27.5 if they completely removed it. So...30 pilots would explain the loading up at idle/low speed. Drop stock pilots back in... The rest of the jetting sounds close...

Yep...too much money. My buddy is selling his 98 formula 3 skidoo, triple triple for 1800....and it's a great machine. I'd ice pick the tires for drag racing on the ice...but, you're not gonna beat a sled for trails, etc...especially when it gets deep!!

If you're running street or hard packed dirt, remove that airbox... at 175LB per cylinder, I'd be putting straight race gas personally... You'll probably be at 45 or 48 pilot, even with the air box removed...

New 700 raptor or older 660?

Unfortunately, this doesn't work for the banshee. It actually fires each cylinder at the same time...so each revolution, each side gets a "Dead" spark.

Home Depot or Lowes, good old Pink Panther Insulation...been using it for years.

I can see someone stumbled onto my little game in the casino...huh firehead? You a busy little man last night, huh? LOL :biggrin:

Dunno...I've done quite a few clutches, and the only time I did snap a bolt is when I didn't use a torque wrench set to 7.5 ft lbs....

Jury is out on that for me....I'm gonna stick to the run of the mill 68mm blaster pistons for my 10 mil, same as I had in my 4 mil... I just don't trust the coating to keep from coming off....it's a mental thing for me I'm sure.

Well...what mastarosa needs to know is they are all based on the same prinicpal, supplying more fuel via an adjustable jet tapped into the float bowl through vacuum attained at open throttle and RPMs. Some cover wider RPM ranges, some mist...or emulsify...the fuel much better....it's all in the design. Hope this thread helps!!! :thumbsup:

Yep...getting them to start the thread with those stiff clutch springs is fun....but fine after that. Use a 10 mil nut driver if you can....to put even pressure on them. Or...a big phillips....

PUll the head off, the size is stamped in the side of the dome.

Mark... I have read debate after debate about which cools better...not in theory, but in actuality. Some will say it doesn't matter, etc. I have a NOSS head mainly because it looks nice, and I trust O Rings better than a gasket. The water jackets are such on a cub to where cooling really shouldn't be a problem. That being said....do you have any proof of one head cooling better than a stock head? Just curious....