dajogejr

You've got PM...I've been thinking of getting into Paintball...just for fun.

PM ellison445. He just sold a set I believe...and his shiznit was spotless/flawless. See where he sold 'em and how much he got... He's a helluva guy, he'll share that info with you.

You forgot: 1. Grey's anatomy or other chick flick on TV so the "wifey" stays in the house 2. Twelve pack of "soda" to start out with 3. Package of gauze and band aids (Or substitute with shop towel and electrical tape) 4. More beer or Whiskey to "Sterilize" any open wounds 5. More beer to drink when something goes wrong 6. A number for a good lawyer when you drive to the store for the third round of refreshments and get popped for a DUI.... LOL...

Good point..Handyman... Not many people know this, but both cylinders spark at the same time, every time. You get a dead spark on each cylinder every rotation. If the box on the flywheel got marred up from a loose bolt, I'd be getting a new flywheel real quick... Did you check clearance between the pickup coil and flywheel magnet? I try to set mine around .015...close the better. Spec is .018 to .020 I know you have the TORS removed...but are all the wires removed properly/cut/taped off?

Honestly, the carb aluminum is so soft, if you get a coarse scotchbrite pad on a angle grinder...you can remove enough metal and flatten the boss to so the locknut will hold. The left side carb is a bitch because the fuel inlet is right in the way!!! I've seen springs to hold the screw in place, so you don't have to use the locknut...but I've never personally used them....I like the idea, though. A few quick things... Completely dissasemble the carbs. I'm talking remove all jets, including the air jet on the back of the bell... Use a lot of WD40 or comparable cutting oil when you tap it... And...get a wooden hammer handle or similar and put it through the venturi of the carb...just in case you get a little trigger happy with the drill, you don't want to go on the other side and knick it. I also use a medium sand paper and smooth the drilled/tapped hole on the inside to make sure there's no burrs, etc. Just common sense...it's really, really easy to do. And make sure you disconnect the wires at the TORS units, the brain under the tank AND the parking brake wires...

J ARM FRAME Forever...LOL. J Arm frames are a favorite among drag racers/duners because they are lighter...and they normally (myself included) cut frame rails off to save weight as well... You won't see a real drag bike in the air...unless it's the front tires for a little bit...LOL.

Cool pic...nice artwork. We used to have a killer Barry Sanders on a building here in the D!! I don't like Kobe as a person, but he's one of those people you'd always love to have on your team. His skills and talent are unquestionable!!! GO PISTONS...

I"ll keep me eyes peeled for ya as well...

Fist off, little boy....you only have to post something once...not 1.5 times. I know your parents were probably ready to spy on your online activity...that's why you had to fire off that first quick post, then say the same thing again... Second of all, you're damn right. I voice my opinion all the time. But doing so in a technical or other forum...I don't jack up someone's for sale thread.... I know that might be tough to understand...by try. Baby steps.... Don't you have to go give Dave Moore a hard time or something? Are your cartoons over already? So...now you've been given the title of Internet police to make sure kids aren't buying stuff that you personally don't see is worth it? How nice of you....where do we pin your medal ass clown? Who the fuck are you to sit there and judge what is worth how much and why? I didn't realize you had so much free time...so, now that you do...please go over every single for sale thread here and on Planet Sand. 2 stroke, sponsors, 4 stroke....you need to make sure that you cover every single one of them. I don't want anybody to get a bad deal...and since you know it all...and have taken it upon yourself to police everything, I hope you're up to the task....that's a lot of work. Better yet, we'll just give you your own forum. Everyone can email and PM you, you put an item up for sale according to what you think is correct, regardless of condition, market, area...money invested, etc. You just put whatever price you want on it cause you think your right. Sounds good to me, I'm sure many will be beating a path to your door for your high level of help and service....and you're doing all us BHQ'ers a favor... <Insert Bud Light Real Men of Genius song here> Here's to you, Mr. I know what everything should sell for on forums. Thanks to you...for sale threads are covered under your watchful eye...for without you, people all over the Internet, all over the world....would be getting the shaft and ripped off. So let's crack open a refreshing Bud Light and celebrate the Internet is a better place with you on it....and we should all be so thankful. Mr. For Sale on the Internet Guru...our hats off to you... Get a clue asshole.

Maybe you should slow down and get a utility quad so you don't flip/wreck/break that thing...LOL. Compared to your YFZ, it sucks at jumps, turns, tricks and everything else BUT sand... You'll love the motor output....but the chassis is SEVERELY dated, as is the suspension. While you can do tricks and stunts on a shee...it's much easier on a 4 poke. The shorter wheelbase and torqueier motor make it easier to manage...the banshee motor is like a lightswitch...whereas the YFZ is like a tractor.

Seriously....what the hell is wrong with you two?? If it's overpriced...fine, that's your opinion and keep it to yourself. The same bike that might fetch 2500 in the midwest could very easily fetch 4G's out in California...or West Coast. Don't come on here and muddy up someone's for sale thread...if it's too high, it won't sell...AND IT SAYS OR BEST OFFER.... Just plain wrong....

Sheesh... I've have one work for that guy... NEXT

JT....what are you trying to say? You don't like how stiff the Marvin Comps are?? LOL... I'd like to try a set of hill shooter coil overs... For drag, they are the only way to fly....unless you wanna strut it. FORGET about a comp series for duning, trust me on that one....

Not for very long...especially on a 1 ring motor... My buddy set my 10 mil 68mm bore alky bike at .050. He usually sets up bigger bore bikes (72mm or bigger pistons) around .040. Less squish, more timing!!

Cascade does....someone may have an older Graydon intake as well... http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ Go to Banshee Parts and Accessories, scroll down to Carbs....

I'd take this time to pull it all apart, clean out everything, have your crank checked and trued/welded if it isn't already. Crank bearings aren't fond of metal shavings...at least flush the bearings out with WD40, solvent, etc...

I don't even believe in more oil when you break it in...the rings need to seat...that's it. More oil makes that more difficult. By his math, I use Benoil and Methanol...so, my 28:1 is more like 14:1??? Sheesh...

Stock crank, TZ or maxload bearing on the PTO side, and have it trued and welded by someone who knows what they are doing. The Maxload bearing I had in my 4 mil cub was awesome and cheaper than a TZ...and SoCallinit still has my old motor and crank, still going fine. The Maxload Jeff @ FAST gets is a nice bearing. Stock cranks are very strong if welded...they'll push 90 to 100HP all day long on a drag bike IF it is in tune and getting enough fuel/oil.... I second Mike....Jankab does nice work...on your stock crank or he can build you one.

Just make sure you get the following: New caps Throttle cable Drill and tap for the carbs.. Brass bullet nosed idle screws and lock nuts for them.

I stopped reading after this: If oil "A" is twice as thick as oil "B" and you mix both at 40 to 1, oil "A" will really be 20 to 1, right ? Now think about the reverse. If "A" is half as thick as oil "B" and you mix both at 40 to 1. "A" would now be 80 to 1. NO Dipshit....X amount of oil per X amount of gas is still X:1 ratio...

And spinning those turf tamers probably makes the shifting even shorter. I'd say 15 up front and probably 40 out back....it should pull that ALL day long easily....

18 tires in the rear? And all that motor work...yeah, go up one on the front...

Am I just getting old and blind...or is there no motor specs in his sig??

Well...that's your fault. I told you to use the purple power band and you'd be getting .46969 more HP out of 'em. When I built my 10 mil, I did my own clean up port on it...and I radiused the intake boost ports a little. If you have the time, it's no big deal. the biggest mess to clean up is the transfer runners.

The couple times I talked with them, he said they do everything in house. However....that could mean his part arrive on a wooden raft from the wooden hut distributor...and they do all assembly work... But, his exact words were we make everything in house. Open to interpretation...I guess...