dajogejr

Since you're a self admitted cheap ass, send it out. Because you're gonna probably ruin that flywheel, and you're gonna spend 2 to 3 times as much on a new or used one to replace the worthless, albeit lighter, paper weight/ash tray you just created. Dave Moore actually puts the flywheel on a tapered shaft just like the crankshaft it sits on so you get proper balance and spin. I can tell you the average machine shop Joe does not do that.... http://www.davemooreracing.com/Flywheel_Mod.html

I bet my bike with an override shift better, faster and more effortlessly... I've been told a ground down shift star AND shift pro are a bad idea because bumps or whoops can cause it to jump gears. As good as it may shift, once you ride an override bike it will ruin any other bike you ride, that's a promise...

Not true at all. A few questions that need answers before I give you my recommendations.. How and where do you ride? Dune for a long time, or just drag race, shut it down, cool it off. Do you want to run pump gas or do you mind running race fuel?? IF you dune a lot and want to run pump gas, leave it. If you want to dune and run race fuel, bump it to 6. If you only drag race and want to run pump fuel, and give it ample time to cool down after 1 or 2 runs, max the plate out at 10 or 11. You must be sure your jetting is on after doing this...if it's borderline or lean, it will melt in a quick hurry... So, I'd go a jet or two on the rich side before putting this much timing in it. On my 4 mil cub on gas last year, I had a dyna set on the most advanced curve...AND 8 or 9 on my plate. I duned it, drag raced it...etc. I had 185PSI or so and ran 110. That bike ripped all year and the pistons looked awesome when I tore it down at the end of the year (to build bigger). However, I'm a fanatic about checking plugs and I always make sure it has plenty of fuel....

Stock cranks hardly ever get out of phase or twist, they just separate... Stock cranks are splined...so it's have to be a big F Up for it to twist. However, once it separates, bad, bad things can happen. I agree....leave the compression alone until you are ready to rebuild, then do it all. Also, you can bump the timing up with a 35 dollar plate that will recover some bottom and midrange as well...

Beings as you're in AUS. Find a place that will ship to you. Many retailers will ship to AUS....and will be cheaper than OEM if you buy a few from them.

?? Put the ring in the cylinder, square it up by using the crown of the piston to push it an inch or so down, then use the feeler gauge to check the gap. As long as your feeler gauge isn't 3 to 4 inches wide, it will work. This is how everybody I've ever seen do it checks ring end gap... Remember, you're checking the gap of the actual ring, so the feeler has to go past the ring locator lands and in between the ring gap flush against the cylinder wall....

Better porting, freer flowing pipes. If you mostly dune...get a Cheetah or Cub cylinder.... Depending on how well you did the porting, you're probably at 55 to 60HP or so. You can bolt on a stock stroke cub and be at 80 on race gas the way it sits, probably a few more with better exhaust. If you get a 4 mil crank and a 68mm cub, you're over 90 on race fuel. If you don't program the dyna to your bike with dyno time, dyno tuning, sell it and get a timing plate and use the stock CDI. Then, you can put it on alky....good for another 5 to 15% in power and it will run cooler.

I'm lost homie...it is friday. Are you measuring center of hole to center of hole without shocks on, with your preferred ride height? In that case, get 12 1/4. You can take almost 3/4 of an inch off the bottom of a Marvin Shaw, locknut and collar or just one or the other. I've removed the nut and collar off all 3 of my shaws, just red loctite it and be good. Did you check make sure air pressure was the same, etc??

Put the "turd" on the trailer, the shee rides shotgun....LOL. Never seen the trailer, you get what you pay for...just remember that!

Drain the tranny.... Put that POS Predaturd on it's grab bar behind your bike on all 4s, that way....if it falls off the back of the truck, it's a predaturd, the value of your vehicle went up....and it serves as a safety net for your banshee... Yeah, gotta do what you gotta do to ride, but a two piece snowmobile or utility trailer to make it so much easier...

Measure it once they're both on... My opinion is I'd run it... Do you have any way to increase the preload, spring pressure, etc?

Not to mention when you turn you're gonna be eating sand from the knobbies picking it up...whereas smoothies just kinda float.... Smoothies are the only way to go...but, if nothing else, knobbies will suffice.

Ding Ding Ding...here we go...

FTZ or Power Pros. I've had CPI big bore OOF with AND without silencers, these ain't them....

Interesting... If I remember, he doesn't use Blaster pistons in his 4 mils, but he said they're ok to use in 10 mils... That one kinda surprised me... Yeah, Shane's bike ran good all year I'd say. He bested my time last week at the track on a smaller motor with a heavier bike...

appreciate the offer, but I'm gonna have to pass, too. I forgot I won tickets to a magic show at the Fisher in Detroit. Taking the girl and her two kids. She was nice enough to politely remind me with the "look" when I told her about riding Sunday.... Good to know it's something simple JT...get ready for the ice. I expect to hear how Jeff likes them Lectrons later today, talked to him about 4 or 5 times yesterday about this and that!!!

Don't hold back...tell us how you really feel... I run clear hoses on mine, and I'm going to be putting red food coloring in the water...I gotta be cool too ya know....

Don't make me get Turbo in here to slow your roll, Snop....

fouledout420 and badassbanshee479 both have strong running 4 mil cubs...I don't know if you're running OEM or a cub. This was my first year on alky, it did cost me one piston, but it was because I got a little too greedy.. Start out pig fat and slowly lean down. I tend to like my bike a little fat, I don't see the need to lean it out to risk a motor... Anyone that goes to alky always say the same thing, once you go meth...you'll never go back to gas. good luck to ya....

Ok...fair enough. What you're failing to realize is sloppy machining tolerances for said carbs. Unless you make a complete model of the whole carb slide, carb body, etc, and measure everything, you're doing just that...guessing. Now I've done that for YEARS...and I'm not saying you can't get them close. Sure you can. You'd be surprised how far you can be off...even using this method very carefully.... Whereas with a vacuum meter there is no guess work. It's even or it's not...period. You're taking into consideration both carbs are identical in specs...machine/tolerance wise. I can assure you in mass production as they are, they are different. NOT by a ton, but they are. However, proper vacuum through each is the way to go...that way you know they are pulling the same fuel/air in, you're not relying on sight/sound. I can give you this analogy... If you're using a micrometer and your eyes and ears to sync these, that's like a machinist using a tape measure from home depot to do his job. It all depends on if "close enough" is good enough for you...when getting it dead on balls accurate is so easy to do...

I'll explain as soon as you explain how putting an airbox on changes the sync of a carb....

I read your post... But I respectfully disagree...

Hell...I'd run 'em on my 10 mil.... Post 'em up for sale...plenty of big motor drag race guys can use a pair of 44's.

Take the airbox off to use it. Then put it back on. Just because they're slamming back down in sync does NOT mean they are being opened in sync or idle in sync.... I could very easily make one slide a 1/8" higher than the other and adjust the cable to where they both hit the idle screw at the same time closing them...

<insert Beavis and Butthead laugh here> uhh huh huh huh..huh huh huh... You said shaft.