dajogejr

I just had to smile to myself as I read that...we've all said that once we made the leap of faith. I run a quick disconnect from Direct Drive. I bought one female end and two male ends. I hook one male end on the gas valve line, and I have a small gas tank off an old snowblower I had laying around. You probably need to run less than 1/4 gallon of gas through the bike. And MAKE SURE you use the same oil in your purge fuel as you do your alky... My bowls got gummed up because the oil I was using wasn't alky compatible...which, it's gonna mix a bit when you purge. There is a good thread over on PS about how to read alky plugs. Here's the quick disconnects I used. Used them all year...NO Problems. Make purging a snap. Scroll to the bottom of the page. http://www.directdrivecnc.net/Miscpage.html

Well..you gotta compliment the boost bottle somehow... Bling Bling..... :biggrin:

For a 7 mil on Meth you want bigger than 36s. Plus, once you drill the dump tubes on Keihins, that's it. You can not replace them...like you can on Mikunis. I have 39PWKs setup for a fuel pump. I also have 41.3mm Lectrons that I'm very happy and satisfied with. I've had my 39s for sale, no takers. They work perfectly on my 10 mil, I just like the Lectrons better. Do you know how to setup a fuel pump? if so...would you like to try them...if they don't sell? I ran them all year, I recently got these Lectrons and you'd have to pry them from my fingers to give them up. Their simplicity and ease of tuning is awesome... In my 39's I run 55 pilots, .122 dumps and .117 mains. I have the Dave Moore Super Jets which I run 3 to 4.5 turns out. I did get greedy once this year and went with 48 pilots and 1.5 turns out on the PJs...and I broke a piston top off, and was lucky only to do that. Bidding on ebay ends in about 6 hours or so. If they don't sell...we would have to come to some type of agreement so we're both covered, but you could try 'em. I'll even make sure they're setup for you...rich, of course, but close. You'll have to run a fuel pump on these. The needle and seat are too small to flow enough fuel without the pump... The pump I use is less than 50 bucks.. Remove a reed cage, stuff a rag down in the intake, drill and tap it for a fitting to run a vacuum/pulse line, sealing it of course. Then use a shop vac to suck any shavings out...and slowly remove the rag. Takes no time...

Completely understand...and that makes sense Snop. I often have to take a step back from drag racing to look at the overall picture...as you said, midrange is worthless to someone that holds it WOT for a few seconds... :thumbsup:

what are the direct results, Dyno speaking, of putting reed spacers on bigger motors? Pretty much everyone I ride with has 4 mil or bigger cub, twister...or Cheetahs. And they ALL pretty much hit the dyno regularly. I see no one running them..however... In fact, a friend of mine got rid of the billet crossover built in intakes and got some run of the mil UPP intakes with no crossover for his 10 mil super cub, and it ran better times and numbers with shorter intakes (the built in crossover intakes are thicker, I have 'em too). He is also one to hit the dyno and the tracks regularly... I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying all the guys I ride/race with over here don't use 'em...and they all have bigger motors.

I would call the cops, I agree. When it's all said and done, if the cops don't do a good enough job...go get a lynching party.

Hmmm...sounds like snake oil to me... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: It's worth knowing your carbs are pulling the same amount. If you're pretty close by eyeball, you gonna burn an engine down? Probably not. But it's a handy and nice tool to have. You don't eyeball spark plugs, flywheel gap etc., why eyeball something as important as the vacuum/sync from your carbs???

That compression sounds a little low, what did you setup your squish at? On a Keihin carb for meth, you'd want .120 or .122 dump tubes, .117 to .120 mains... You're pretty much at the same elevation as me. On my 10 mil, I have .045 to .046 squish, 20cc domes and my compression is near 180. I'm not good with the aftermarket Mikunis.... You might want to post this question over on Planet Sand as well...there are a TON more people running meth with Mikuni experience.

If that was the case why doesn't anyone with big cub motors, Cheetahs, TRex, etc., every use them?

They are the real shorty ones? I think they come in a kit to eliminate the air box...overpriced if you ask me. I promise you won't notice a bit of difference between 4, 6, 8 and 10 inch filters. No problem...here to help as best I can...

Dump tubes are what your main jet screws into...and what your needle goes in and out of.. Get a drill bit, measure it's thickness...and get something that is snug in the dump tube. Measure that... Unless it's butt ass cold out or your bike is jetted wrong in the pilot/air screw, Methanol starts very easy. You mentioned checking compression and timing. What exactly are they both at? What is the elevation at Gordon's well..by the way? Need to know: Dump tube size Compression Timing Elevation...

Jeff will know which filter for stock carbs, but for your own benefit, measure the OD of the back of the carb bell. I'm sure someone has a stocker carb laying around to measure that. If you mean 6 or 8 inch long filter, I run 6's...I see no benefit to 2 inches more of filter, unless you like wasting money on more cleaner and oil for it...

Check for air leaks.... And from what I've read...you should have 170 to 190 main in there.... This is the only way to check plug color...and get the main dialed in. I'd still check for leaks, though... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Flip the bike on the back grab bar, look at the clutch side cover. There's an oring that goes on the elbow pipe from the water pump to the back of the cylinder head. That's also where the gasket is for the side cover. otherwise, get some engine degreaser and brake clean, clean the motor off completely top to bottom, side to side...and see where it leaks from...

Call Jeff at Fast... http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=87 http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=74

If you bought and intake with a built in crossover, they are generally thicker than standard intakes. So...even if you bought bigger carbs, I bet they'd still clear the clutch arm, if the boots are large enough, of course.

1-5...the thought of 6th gear on mine is scary on dirt or sand....

Putting T5s on a cub is like putting a muffler on a top fuel dragster...don't do it. I had stock carbs and T5s on my 4 mil cub while pipes and carbs were ordered. It still had too much of the wrong kind of power. Cubs are NOT trail machines. NO amount of timing or compression is going to change that...trust me, I ran a bunch of both. Duning and drag racing...perfect. Trails, NO. I don't know what you mean by snappy... By lack of power and torque in lower RPMs...if that's what you mean...then yes, you will never get that out of a cub. They are designed with drag porting, period. Nothing down low....nothing in the middle..than a hellacious top end pull that just keeps on going. You can't make this motor something it's not... Stock cylinders with a good port job will be 100% better for trails and light duning. For occasional duning and drag racing, these are the cylinders to have. What length swinger are you running by the way??

Can I trail ride my override? Yes. It's a dunable. Can I trail ride my bike? Uh...no. 14 over arm with 110 to 120 HP doesn't handle trails very well..

My good friend always says, you can go broke trying to save money...

Loosen the cable all the way. With your finger, you should be able to push the engagment lever on the left side (shifter side) on top of the crank case...and it should stop...when the arrows line up. If not, you loosen the locknut in the middle of the clutch basket, and turn the phillips screw in or out until the arrows line up by just pressure from your hand. Lock it back down, then it's adjusted. Give yourself about a nickel or slightly more freeplay in between the perch and the lever before you can feel the lever try to disengage the clutch.

New cable and get rid of the stock parking brake/clutch perch. Get a good perch and EZ pull lever. Lube the new cable with some WD40 or liquid wrench... Jeff @ FAST has a clutch perch/lever with a needle roller bearing in the lever. It's a good setup...

More than likely, it's not adjusted properly, or not seated right in the basket/hub.

I agree...put bigger mains, chop the plug. And yes you need to run WOT through at least 5th gear, if not 6th. 2nd and 3rd gear plug chops DON'T Count. Put the needle clip back in the middle as well. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

I disagree...I think the Nology Coil w/ Hotwires is a great mod...however, I'd be getting 30 to 33mm carbs before I spent that money on electrical ignition upgrades.