dajogejr

Get pods w/ outerwears. Roughly... and with stock pipes. Stock pilot, middle clip, 240 to 260 mains.

That is the best news I've heard all day... Glad to hear it Steve -O...but I'd still take up Climb Any Hill's offer of a 12'er to clean up the bike... FREE LABOR.... :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :whistling:

Nice looking ride.. Ebay for most of this stuff... I live close to you. I'll see what my bro in Canton has laying around.. I could arrange a meet up in person if he has any of these goods...

How much compression?

Pop the cap off. remove the lower hose where it goes into the water pump housing. with an air nozzle cup your hand around the radiator fill neck, and shoot some compressed air in there... It'll pretty much whatever doesn't drain out through the hose and wp housing... Just did this yesterday to remove the water and add the coolant/antifreeze.

Generally...the CDI is fine if it gets wet. I can tell you first hand the stator and pickup don't like to get wet. Remove the left side footpeg, shifter and sidecover, and see if you got water behind that...

There is a BIG, HUGE debate over this here on whether to use the long life or normal run of the mil green coolant in bike. I use water straight from the hose in the summer, and put 50/50 prestone/water for the winter so it doesn't freeze. In My Opinion, none of these new fangled long life antifreeze/coolants were around back in 87 when they created the banshee...or before that for the RZ/RD engines, and good old green run of the mil coolant was good enough for them back then.... The motor sure hasn't changed since 87....why should the coolant type??

Everything I could find said they were held mid-September previous years, early october this year. We need to hit that event...that would be fun... then go drink some German beers... we should get the rules, etc. for that next year Shane... I wonder if it's a bunch of yocal locals or if there are some real bikes there... All I see is unlimited a, b and c classes....and I was always kind of a C student... :biggrin:

GORR used to be the king for MX/Woods ports. Then he went to London...but I could've sworn he was coming back though...not sure... Washburn...are you saying Jim has over 150 different engine combos for banshees alone???

Please don't buy a plug lock...these guys are just having fun with you. Your motor is telling you there is something wrong...figure out if it's not getting enough fuel, if it has an air leak or if it has too much timing advance.... The first time I install plugs I snug them, then turn it 1/2 to 3/4 turn after. After that (the washer is crushed) 1/4 to 3/8 turn after snugged.

Just run a fuel pump...

Andy got out because of his full time job getting in the way...more or less. Not enough time...

I'm ratting you out to Andy...

Asking who is the best builder is like asking you what kind of beer you drink, who makes the best car/truck, and if you like blonde/brunettes/redheads (or...gulp...baldies) Call several builders, Jim @ Passion, Jeff @ Fast, Cameron @ K&T, Kim @ K&T, the list goes on. See who treats you the best, who answers your questions AND asks you the right ones, gives you a good price (remember, you get what you pay for) and make your decision from there. You're shorting yourself if you only call one builder...any one of those listed above or any other builder. That's like shopping for a new car and buying the first one you see on the lot without sitting or even looking at other cars....

You are correct..past .125 on the main and you're risking breaking the main off. Bigger than .125 on the dumps and you have to get a special needle to seal that big ol hole....

Actually...since you put it that way...with our without a lockup, shifting a normal tranny without the clutch will damage it. I'm sure a lockout will break something sooner only because it's putting more pressure on the clutch, therefore putting more pressure on the tranny. But to be clear...shifting without the clutch on a normal tranny is asking for trouble.

I agree 100%. One compliments the other...and each is needed.

I ran .117 mains and .122 dumps ... The main jet isn't 100% critical... I started out this year on alky....so, my 10 mil never saw gas. I can tell you I started this year with 16/39 gearing, launching in 1st...and now have 16/44 gearing launching in second...and I run the same times, same MPH.... Yeah, with alky you gain power, so the bike can pull a little more gear no prob...

Well...there's a bid on them now. But...I think it might be a scammer that was looking at them on PS. I run a Mikuni DF62, it's their high output pump, 65L per hour. Their other pumps flow 35L per hour. I live in Michigan...I don't want to hear about riding dunes or sand in November...ok?? :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: I think mine have the easy pull springs, they pull easier than my Keihins do. You don't need a purge kit. Just get quick disconnects from Direct Drive. I have a single outlet stock gas valve, the fuel pump and that's it. No need for a dual pingle, etc. with a fuel pump setup done right.

I can't help your drool problem by looking at it... See a doctor.... LOL

I've got something for you to diagnose... I got this huge crack....in my ass....

Who knows how long it was leaking and how bad...G. He also has new plugs in it...they take time to color...add the fact it's got coolant in the cylinder, I can easily see it being squeaky clean...

Generally...coolant on a plug washes any fuel burn on it...and it won't fire well, if at all... I'm not saying there isn't something else. Plugged radiator, bad cap, broken/worn impeller... But...it's leaking coolant, that has to be addressed first as well as the cause of it.

We need to slap my Lectrons on your bike J...just for giggles... Maybe some big bore pipes...

If you have coolant on the spark plug..that's a problem. A little or a lot. The fact that you added water tells me it's leaking coolant... Pull the head and reseal it... How can you guys say it's jetting??????????