dajogejr

Again, posting for a buddy...165 shipped.

Throw in a package of tic tacs and some double mint gum...you got a deal.

I agree 100% Brandon... 4 pokes actually have a rev limiter ...and they serve purpose as long as the valvetrain, etc., is up to the task...

Posting for a buddy, one is 13.5 eye to eye, the other is 15 eye to eye. Perfect condition, both of them. 175 each shipped. PM me...I'll get you in touch with the seller, or you can PM On_3_see_ya! on planet sand.

Another thing...when you setup Mikunis or Keihins...you will get a wide range of answers on how/what to jet. You're the 3rd or 4th person to say the EXACT same thing on needle choice and seat setup, pump vs. gravity, and the whole float thing. I've got the billet Packard bowls, I don't think I'd need to remove a float...but I don't see ever going back to a non-pump setup...either. I agree...bigger is better for a 10 mil, but...he'd be going from 39s to 38s...not a huge difference... I did not know, however...that they weren't all tapered...I thought that was a Lectron trait....thanks!! Another thing...he rides at 8500 feet...I think a 38'll work pretty good...since they don't need quite as much fuel at that altitude...

Yeah...but there's a spot right above my ass I use show towels and RTV as a "wax"...works wonders. Hi temp RTV, of course.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

If the paddles on the 700 are better than that paddles in your sig pic, you might be in trouble...those aren't a very good drag in the sand tire...

Since the rears are plugged off on cubs, the only thing I do is cut the base gasket on the bottom of the cub cylinder to match the transfers...and it's very thin in the middle and on the sides...kinda like my hair line.... That's why I use a thin coat of RTV as well, for insurance...

I agree 100%...it all depends on the port job on yours, and the rider on both... It should be a close race, either way....

Big or small flange? Go to Planet Sand...a lot more selection over there...

Fuel pump carbs require a fuel pump to fill the bowls...the seats on pumper carbs are small...however...they maintain a better supply, larger supply and more consistent supply of fuel which big motors drag racing (Wide open throttle) need. This is especially important when running alky...or methanol. You need to fuel the motor with twice as much alky as you would gas... The pump supplies fuel to the carbs, based on the pulse supplied to it by the motor. Gravity fed...well, fuel can flow into the carb as fast as it could pouring out of the gas tank via the fuel line...that's it. For bigger motors run in a drag race...on alky, you need more fuel. This can be done several ways...and in a combination of the following: Bigger bowls, better and free flowing fuel valve and/or a fuel pump. In some motors...the motor at WOT can suck fuel out of the carb faster than gravity can fill the bowls... That's why i like a pump.....

TTT....

I'm not sure how much effect 38 vs 39mm carb would be.... However, I think if they're not close in setup, new needles from Packard, possibly seats and needles if they're not already setup for a pump.... You will need a set of dial digital calipers to measure the metering rod/needle length on them...you set them and go from there. 1/4 turn on the metering rod is roughly one jet size...so, plenty of adjustability... You just have to make sure the flat side of the needle always points toward the intake/motor. once you turn the needle, you push up on it to make sure the flat side is intake bound. It might sound weird...but get a set in your paws and it makes total sense...

ProCom is junk. The only bolt on CDI worth anything is a Dyna...and that's only if you have a drag bike, the need for NOS, and the time/resources/money to tune one in via a dyno and using the software to program it to your needs. Otherwise, use the stock CDI and advance the plate.... I wouldn't buy any CDI that advertises 1000 extra RPM...the CDI does not decide that on a two stroke. Pipes, porting, intake, compression and timing all have to do with that...not the CDI box by itself.

Guy I got mine off of has/had a 10 mil twister setup for 1/8 mile. Mine are 40/44 (intake/exhaust...Lectrons are tapered) and the intakes are bored to 41.3 or 41.5...I forget. That's a tough question to answer...these didn't cost me anything, they were given to me. The fact they were setup for a very similar motor by the best in the biz...was a double bonus. I've run my bike at the track all year...and these carbs bolted right on, a little adjustment, and it ran just as fast...and even more consistent than my PWKs have all year. Mabye I'm getting better at tuning alky, maybe I'm getting to be a better rider and more consistent rider on my bike...I honestly don't know. It would depend on two things if I were in your shoes. 1. Who set them up, and are they setup for a similar motor, pumper, elevation you ride at? and... 2. Even trade, money out of pocket, etc. Mine was beyond an easy no brainer to try...and I'm happy with the results. Your call... As long as the needle is right, the rest is very easy...and no jets to buy, as said. Make sure you get the cable too...your stocker for the PWKs will not open the slides all the way.

I would say get rid of that piece of junk if you still have your stock CDI...they are garbage. But yes...I'm sure they up the timing on it from the stock curve...I would put 1 or 2 degrees on the plate and see how the bike runs, listen to the motor...and check your plugs.

The fact they were setup by one of the gurus of Lectrons, for a build very, very similar to mine gave me a lot of confidence to go out and run them. Everyone says the needle is key...Dennis Packard knows what he is doing. To be honest, with dual feed powerjet and large billet bowls, I really don't need a fuel pump for 300ft. However, dune races can go longer, one day I might hit the 1/8 mile...and I already had a fuel pump run and plumbed, with the exception of having to order a new throttle cable, it was a bolt on and go for me. Same intakes, same air filters, and if I wouldn't have messed with the needles (went rich to be safe...plus it was COLD) I literally could've bolted them on and ran... I like the fact there is no brass to buy or test with. Turn a needle for low and mid (which...doesn't have to be spot on for a drag bike that is at WOT for a few seconds) and and open the PJ to give it fuel. It really is a no brainer carb....

4.25 ET, 1.595 60Ft., .690 RT, 75MPH...with the bike as you see it, no bar, fat kid on board.... Ran low to mid 4.3's almost all day...and the track was CHEWED UP...they let a lot of jeeps/big trucks run too... Just as fast as my PWKs, I had to adjust the needle three times, a little bit leaner each time...and it went from 45 to almost 60 degrees in a few hours.

Thanks guys...pics up:

90 PSI would explain A LOT... You need to try another tester, if you get the same readings, you need to tear the motor down and check piston to wall clearance and ring end gap.... A stock, fresh motor should be in the 120 to 130 range....

Remove both spark plugs, turn your kill switches off. With a car...you turn the key forward to start it...and that also turns the ignition on (Spark)... With the bike, you can kick it with the kill switch off and there will be no spark...

Use a compression tester that has the same thread pitch, size and depth as your spark plug, remove both spark plugs and keep kicking until the gauge doesn't go up any more. It often can take 20 to 30 kicks before the gauge stops going up. the first 4 or 5 kicks, it will go fast, after that...it may only go up 2 or 3 PSI at a time. Hold the throttle wide open the whole time while kicking it... Good idea to test on a cold motor first, then a warm one. See what it ends up with. Get a quality compression tester...not an auto parts cheapy...it does matter. If you ever remove the lid and/or get pod filters, they may work, but I think they'll be lean for that (removed air box)

No...he mentioned his buddy had an 04 predator...I call them Predaturds. Guy we used to ride with has two of them, he's putting a 520 KTM motor in one... Still turds...LOL....

Ok...first things first. Do you still have the lid on? If so...290 to 310 will be too rich, period. You might need a 270 or 280 for the winter months being much colder. If the carbs and jets are clean, it shouldn't take 25 kicks to start... That tells me one of a few things...in the likely to not so likely order. Plugged pilot jets Bad/old/stale gas and oil fouled plugs low compression bad spark/weak ignition Yes, that is the needle from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle...but, the main blends in towards the end there... Too rich or too lean can start to bleed into the needle. If you are still running an air box with a lid, you do not need 27.5 pilots, even when it's about to be butt ass cold 'round here. You can make the summer to winter adjustment on the pilot with the air screw, out in the summer, in for the winter...usually a turn to 1.5 turns will do. A TON of kicks to start cold but one kick to start warm screams low compression on the top end. If the bike sits that long, it's easy for premix oil and fuel to gum up very small passages in the carb, too. Compression test is next....but please answer the question about the air filter lid. Were you clear to the Vito's guys about your air filter setup...if they thought you had K&N POD Filters with no air box, they're closer on their recommendations... Lane is the only guy I know from Vitos...he's sharp....

Fine point, but it also requires richer jetting...etc., as well, similar to methanol...