dajogejr

Up for sale again...buyer (scammer) didn't work out. On ebay as well, but will end the auction for a PS or HQ member: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=270179280693

First I've ever heard of road force balancing...they weren't around that I was aware of when I was working in garages from 93 to 98... Very good info... If you feel it under the seat, it might be a driveshaft. If you feel it in the pedals and/or in the steering wheel...it's most likely out of balance tires. I had an old 4WD Ranger club cab with a two piece driveshaft I replaced U Joints on, I assembled it out of phase...and it vibrated big time for two or three months before I finally figured it out....

Some of you may or may not know, BansheeDan's 6 year old son was diagnosed with a small tumor in his lung that turned out to be cancer...today he went in for surgery. I just talked to Dan a few minutes ago... The surgery is done, they removed 100% of the tumor. They took a small bone sample for testing, but as of now it looks like there will be no need for chemo treatment followup. Dan is very relieved...and asked me to post up the results. He was also very humble and thankful for all the kind words both at the track and on the forum, and for everyone's concern as well. I'll post up more as it becomes known to me.... Good news!!

Please use the Search function....

You can drill and tap both ends, put a plug in one, a zerk in the other, and drill two or three small holes in the bolt so you can grease it. We used to always do that. Word to the wise...take your time and use a drill press...that bolt is hard as all hell.... Then just get both ends chromed...

Did you read what they wrote? The crank costs the same, you're going to have to get it ported correctly for the 4, 7 or 10 mil crank. If you're gonna go bigger than 4, go 10 and get the porting to match the crank.... Any of those cranks the porting is going to be off, and to match the porting to a 4 vs. a 7 or 10 is the same price...so why not go 10?

Man...would I like to have that 4 mil cub back...!! Yeah, Steve...put it up for sale now whole. That bike is way to nice and clean to part out like everyone said... Save the parting out for the bargain basement beaters... Put for sale signs on it for your dune trips... Just one thing you gotta think of homie... You can probably get a little more parting it out, but then you have to figure on trips to the post office, your time taking it apart, shipping, answering PMs, dealing with tire kickers...etc. For the 10 to 15% you might lose by selling it whole vs. parting it out...it will save you more time and headache in my opinion... Don't worry...after the 08 season is over I'm sure my 10 mil will be up for sale and ready for you.... Ask anyone around here...I still say there are days I wish I still had that 4 mil, it was a great little motor!!! Best of luck to you my friend!!

I think 2nd clip is too lean...but the pilot is too rich...which is why it would bog from 1/4 to half, since you're trying to run off the pilot jet, the needle is too lean, but when you get to the needle and into the main, it starts getting what it needs...(1/2 to WOT).. Now...if you keep playing around with all this jetting and it gets you nowhere... Time to check electrical. Spark/ignition can play games with your jetting all day and leave you clueless....

Well...hmm. Do you know how to properly set your air screw?

Just for giggles, try this. 30 pilots. 1.0 turns out on the air screw, put the needle clip in the the 4th clip down from the top...

Have you actually tried adjusting the air screws from 1/2 turn out to 2.5 turns out, in 1/2 turn increments. Are you changing the needle the same time you're changing the pilot?

NO...1/4 to 1/2 throttle is the needle... Move the clip up one towards the blunt end, see if it gets better... I think 30 pilots is still too large with an airbox and a lid with holes in it...

I'd love to have that bike as well...fo sho... Times are a tough man...what can you do? TTT...good luck Shannon...

Hate to say it, Penny...but you buy a set of used carbs you could be dealing with the same thing all over again... I have a twist throttle that is yours for the cost of shipping, if that helps...as a matter of fact, I might have a twist throttle too. You have to have TORS removal caps for the carbs, though....

Am I reading that wrong?? I don't remember, but I don't think the stock carbs have hoses routed all the way to the back of the bike for overflow tubes, I think they just dump down on top of the cases... But it's been a while since I've seen stock carbs AND the original tubes on there... I do know for certain the drain hoses dump out behind the cases...which, seems to be the case here.... A picture could be worth 1,000 words...

Jealousy of all those Toys Shane.... I'm just playin with ya...I'd do it too if I could my man. I think I need to move up north....LOL..

Adjusting the floats will not fix this...guys. If it is the hose on the very bottom of the carb(s) that is the drain. Remove your float bowls (do not mix them up, each goes to a specific carb) remove the phillips drain screw, completely clean it and the hole, and seat that screw. That screw is designed to drain the float bowl, and right now it has dirt/crud in there somewhere preventing it from sealing properly. The two hoses up on the carb, either side of the slide are the overflow tubes. If the float height was wrong or if the needle/seat were sticking or not sealing, it would leak fuel out these tubes, not the lower, single line on the bottom of the float bowl. At least that's how I read their description of the problem....

Both rear bolts on my old J Arm frame are drilled and tapped with a larger bolt hole. I'm sure you can find one large enough to drill/tap and make it work. I think mine are 1/2 20 bolts.

All that money you have...sell a kidney or something will ya? I'm a little tight, too...I hear ya. Gonna need to take back some bottles or something...LOL...

Last run of the year, just confirmed by the track. test and tune 11 to 3. We're gonna stop the riding at 2 and get a $10 a man buy in gamblers race, bracket race...winner take the pot, small payout for 2nd and 3rd I believe...not 100% sure. I know the usual gang will be there...some new faces will be nice. About 22 quads going...should be a lot of fun. C'mon out if ya can....supposed to be sunny and 71!!

I didn't know Mikuni offered a 345 main jet, you sure it's not a 340? Either way...that bike is PIG FAT (Rich) for your mods.... With an airbox still in place and holes in the lids....you are feeding WAY too much fuel to that motor.

I'm not sure how OKO carbs differ from keihin, but those main jets would be way fat for a normal keihin. I know it may not be possible, but you really need to be in 5th gear at least to do your plug chop/check. There is much less load on a motor in 3rd gear as in 4th or 5th. With 20cc domes on a 4 mil stroker cub, you need to check compression to make sure 93 octane is enough. You are probably fine...but you need to check to be sure. Hate to see you smoke a top end for not doing something as easy as a compression check...

Thanks Sam...a lot of work, a lot more $$ and time as well. I grin everytime I get to ride it...which will never be enough.... Everything has it's price...it could be for sale...he he he...

Y'all need to listen up and learn how to actually read. I said 75MPH in 300foot of sand...as in a sand drag... I can tell you with 100% certainty my bike has over 3 times the HP your bike does, and mine will actually do 100MPH if I chose to gear it that way. Like I said...go to a pavement drag strip, they'll even let your dad/buddy whatever race in the lane next to you... Your bike will be topped out by half track...post up the time slip. Until then, you're wrong, you might not realize it...but you are. 100% certain.....

Run the bike... If it was air, your bike would have a lean surge, not a bog.... There are a ton of things that can cause a low end bog. Wrong pilot jet/air screw Dirty pilot jet Clogged air filter Old gas/oil Old/fouled spark plugs...