dajogejr

Over the last 15 years i've ridden more combos of banshees than I can remember, from bolt ons to full blown ported strokers and everything in between. Can you make a banshee a good trail bike? Sure.... you can't honestly and realistically tell me it can be done easier and cheaper than a new current 4 stroke 450 quad... Trying to make torque out of a motor that doesn't have it out of the factory...and a near 20 year old suspension design, c'mon.....

What is your elevation? What are your riding temps? Are you going to keep a full airbox, lid, no lid, snorkel, etc? With no lid and LRD pipes, at or near sea level with normal warm riding temps, (60 to 80 degrees) 280 is a good start... And whomever told you a motor would only run on one cylinder if the pistons are in backwards needs to have their head checked...

1 into 2 carb. Pipes are actually good trail pipes. What is your pilot, and have you adjusted your air screw? You've got a motor designed to rev to the moon without power valves, you could detune the shit out of it, or get a real trail bike, a newer 450 4 stroke. Better motor for trails and leaps and bounds better suspension....

Evan had a used set of RDZ on that 4 mil he has for sale now, they were bare steel pipes. He got them back from his chromer in less than a week. And they look very, very nice.... Drops it off, picks it up in person....guy has been around a long time. Same guy that did my pegs, kicker, tie rod ends, and a few other odds and ends...and a ton of stuff for both his other bikes in his garage...

I agree...they're at the end of their life, and for the price of used good stock cylinders, it would cost even more to sleeve the ones you have. Read up on it...port it...and if you F it up, buy stockers and have someone do them for you...

I had a RS Flywheel, had to weld a puller on to it to get it off, less than a year old. My 96 stocker had broken up magnets in it.... My RS stator went bad in less than a year as well. They warrantied it no questions asked.... Sad to say, but OEM ignition is the best stuff on these bikes.

My man... You have to list all of your mods. Especially air filter/intake and exhaust, they are the most critical for jetting. You need to take the carbs apart, and see what jetting is on there. Regardless...from what you explain, I think the clutch is either out of adjustment and/or flat out worn out.

If it is bone stock other than reeds and a boost bottle, leave the stock jetting in there...fix the other problem first...

You're kidding, right? 30 pilots and 340-350 mains on a bone stock bike that has a boost bottle and reeds...? Unless he has mods that you know of personally or he hasn't listed them....that's WAY off...

You know... Give him a holler...

Yep, they sure do... However...I'm not sure if they will Chrome used pipes. they have to be cleaned in acid and often the oil/fuel/methanol residue will contaminate their cleaner tanks.... Just make sure you let them know Wallace what you want chromed and that it's used, hate to see you make a drive for nothing....

No prob...we have a lot of old, Orcale DBs here and they use all caps too...no biggie..

The back side of the carb where the air filter (pod) or boot would go over and seal on....

150 for both pipes, shipping is on you. That's acid dipped to clean any oil, etc...150 for both pipes.

Gotcha... Can you please take the caps lock off, it's the equivalent of shouting on the internet... Remove the gas tank and plastics, inspect all the wires and cut out or replace any broken, burned or bare wires... retape them and hang them with zip ties so they don't get burned or rubbed again...

Left or right carb?

Sell them both and get a 450...

There are three hoses coming off your carb. Which of these three hoses is it leaking from? Have you checked your needle and seat yet?

Are you talking about wires OR the spark plug/ignition wires? First off, get rid of the boost bottle and put the stock crossover tube back in place.... If they are just the TORS wires, get rid of them, unplug the system all together. For less than 60 bucks, you can get a TORS removal kit that gets rid of all that worthless crap. Here's a thread on how to remove/disable the TORS. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...674&hl=TORS

Revving but not moving forward faster is either the clutch slipping and/or some other component of the clutch worn out. Fouling the plugs is most likely the cause of improper jetting. You have two issues, get the clutch fixed first because without being able to put a load on the motor and clutch, you won't be able to get the jetting right...

Drill the bell of the carb, use epoxy or jB weld to hold it in place. You just can't slide the carb on all the way, but should have plenty of lip on the bell to grip the filter. ANYONE that runs methanol runs power jets, you pretty much have to....

SEARCH BUTTON PLEASE...been covered a million times. And 95% of the people that tell you T6 pipes won't respond as well as T5 on a ported motor I guarantee have never tried T6s on a ported motor...

Stock cranks tend to separate the web from the pin. It's a good idea to have it trued and welded anytime: You have the lower end apart for anything. You raise the compression You have the motor ported It's cheap and easy insurance...

Depends... If that light rider is not hooking up.... Port job and it's done and over with....

Maybe there was something wrong with your bike, but I varied from 4 to 8 on my stocker with bolt ons only, no porting....and it made a difference. 8 it got too hot after hotlapping it in the dunes, but 4 is more than safe all day long, and his bike might like 5 or 6.... Everyone and their brother runs 4....