dajogejr

Here's how to tune your air screws. Warm it up. Start with .5 turns out. Go for a ride. turn it .5 turns out each. Wait 20 to 30 seconds, go for a ride. When you get the highest idle, then they're set. Adjust your idle to 1400 to 1800... Same holds true as said above, less than .5 out, larger pilot, more than 2.5..smaller pilot. Good luck... The key is not to try too many settings at once. In other words....don't change your clip AND pilots/air screws at the same time. I try to dial the mains in first, then work down to the needle, then pilots and air screw. As long as I have a semi-decent idle and starts ok....I go mains first. Start fat, work down....

Put 52 or 50 pilots in. Try adjusting the air screws...start at 1/2 turn out from the lightly seated position. With the bike warmed up of course. If you get to 2.5 turns out...you need a smaller pilot. Less than .5 turns out, larger pilot. remember to wait 20 to 30 seconds once you make the adjustment on the air screw for it to take "effect" on your bike... You might have to lean the needle one clip first (towards the blunt end with the clip) if it is still boggy with smaller pilots and adjusting the air screws. How much compression do you have? Lastly...if the jetting is fine, your porter might have gotten too aggressive and given you more of a drag port than a dune port....

Any reason he hasn't switched it over to alky yet? Just curious...

Call Bob @ R&B Racing in Michigan...very reasonable pricing... Just be flat out honest and say how long realistically before I get them back. Shit happens to everyone, but...a reasonable time frame should be quoted off the bat. 517-388-3662

It's too lean...I did the exact same thing. It was my fault, I got greedy...leaned down the pilot AND power jet big time...and I paid the price. It cracked the top of the crown off on the intake side exposing the ring land. I fattened it back up, flushed the bottom of the cases out with race fuel and benoil (my purge gas) and put well over 60 passes or so on it...and it's still going (cold, out of season now...) Here's what he needs to check: Is he running on alky or gas? How much compression is he running? What is the squish? How much timing? What kind of carbs? When I first built my 10 mil this year, I never checked compression....I had my machinist buddy cc the domes, 16cc. So...I imagine my compression was around 240 give or take. Just a hair WAY too much for alky, two trips to the dunes, less than 10 passes each time and I was popping an O ring or backing out plugs... I had a stock head cut to the same specs, 20 cc, gives me 175 to 180PSI, set my squish at .045 to .046, and aside from me getting greedy with leaning it out....my bike has run great and flawless all year long. A set of pistons on my first year on methanol is not bad.... Here's what my piston looked like a few months ago: ( I Made a joke about being able to check ring end gap on the piston, finally...LOL)

Yeah, he's always built fast Fords. A friend of a friend has a Maurader built by him. I've never been in a 5000 lb car that moved like that...it was flat out the shit...!!! Back on topic, remove the TORS. Not only does it eliminate the problem of an electrical/ignition failure, it makes it a LOT easier to get to your carbs and work on things...

Yep, sounds like you probably have a long rod, 4 mil stroker. I've heard of spacers for the top, but most kits will sell you a spacer for the bottom. With the spacer on the top, if it hasn't been ported, the port timings are even more out of whack than just a cut head/domes and a spacer on bottom.... All the ports are lower that stock... My advice would be get the correct pistons for a stroker/long rod motor. They're called 795 series or racers choice piston. Then, get the head OR a set of domes cut for the stroker, it will run the piston up into the head....but not as much as now (as said, the right piston has a higher pin height) Your porting on the cylinders should be matched to the stroke of the motor....

Nice.... I've always been a Mustang fan....love 'em. Always wanted to build a 85 GT, black, ground up. Had one when I was a teen ager, BIG motor, didn't have the time or funds to ever complete it....still kick myself for that one.... Side note...screaming yellow...you ever run against Lidio's stang's from Alternative?? He's local like Livernois Motorsports....

Just remember, when you sell the combo...that's the one you advertise... :yelrotflmao: :beer:

Ray... I've sent a few people your way via email and fleabay for frames....I'm never sure how many dozens you have laying around....

I refuse to run a twist throttle...just unnatural on a quad for me. Tried it, didn't like it... (Plus, easier to hook a WOT NOS switch to thumb...LOL) My reaction times were getting MUCH better as the year went on, same for me too, from .700 to .900 to .5 and .6 as well. I got a stack of time slips like no one's business...LOL... When mine came up....normally the time suffered naturally... But mine likes to run on a clean track too, that's how all my best times were had.

Cam...do I have to do everything for you buddy? Sheesh... :thumbsup:

And...I should add to be fair, JT's (badassbanshee479) 4 mil cub ported by Jeff gave me a run quite a few times this year. He doesn't have all the lightweight goodies Shane and I do...but his bike RIPS nonetheless. He and I had some GREAT Races this year....and we both had a blast... Running with these two all year makes me wish I would've kept my 4 mil sometimes just to see what it could've done on alky with a lockup and override, things it never saw when I owned it in 06.

I can tell you Shane's 4 mil cub ran with my 10 mil all year, and it was setup and spec'd by Nate McCoy, and it ripped all year. I think his best time this year is a 4.19 to my 4.22... I honestly don't know how consistent his bike was all year, I can tell you towards the end of the year mine was very consistent...IF the track wasn't chewed up all to hell. We both have lightened frames, etc. But I think Shane would agree, my bike might be a little lighter, it's chopped more, but...he probably weighs 20 to 25lbs less than me. So...I'd say we were pretty close, within a few lbs of each other rider weight on their own bike. I don't know if our Jockey (BansheeDan) was able to run on Shane's bike faster than Shane was....I can tell you he only made one or two passes on mine, and my times were faster than Dan could put down on mine. I'm sure with practice he'd easily beat my times by a tenth or two.... Marky.... if these carbs weren't given to me, I probably would never buy them. I'm so glad they were, I'm sold... However, the right needle is the key....and in my opinion, Dennis Packard and Fast by Gast are the Lectron kings. Anyone will tell you they are carbeurate cleaner (spelling..?) and they are not as finicky to temp and altitude changes as your normal carb. The fact you don't have to ever buy jets and drill anything out sure is nice, too... Just twist the metering rod as needed, measure length, and open/close the power jet....WITHOUT having to dump fuel out of the bowl to make adjustments. I honestly read up on them for probably an hour or so, and camatv and I think banshee421 both offered me near identical advice on how to set them up....and it worked perfectly.... I let Jeff borrow my carbs to try out, I won't be riding till ice time. When he's done with them...if you have your build done, pay shipping and you an borrow them....even if you just want to take a look at them. You'll be impressed...guaranteed.. They were given to me, it's too cold to ride in sand right now, and the lakes aren't frozen over...so, they'd just be sitting on my bike (kinda like by pipes now that it got repaired by Shearer...looks pretty...just sitting there...) So I'd be happy to loan them to you...

Shane...I've heard of the 10 mil DMs in the 140s'... I wish you had a chance to take my bike for a ride this year... My box stock non-ported 10 mil isn't light years faster than the 4 mils, but I think JT will tell you it is easier to ride, more than likely due to the torque on hand. Now...of course, my best time this year isn't as good as yours...but, with all the passes I put on it, it's pretty darned consistent...fo sho...the Lectrons were by far the best addition I made this year.... You get your frame yet? I'm interested to see this bad boy....

Been a known banshee problem since the dawn of time... Get your shift star ground, it will help with shifting and finding Neutral...

It's possible, You'll be removing one of the two things that make a dune tire a dune tire. The knobs.... You're not going to be saving quite as much weight, though... Smoothies are buffed to save weight too. Don't get me wrong, you have 4 sets...knock yourself out. It's your time, and it'll be a good experiment...

You guys are all missing my point. Ok...you can take it to a great builder, get pipes, carb, intake and porting setup to get low end out of it. Done. A few thousand dollars....but, ok...done. Then...there's the suspension. 20 year old design, you can easily spend 2 to 4 K on that with a better swinger, a arms, shocks, etc. And what are you left with...including the price of the bike, IF it didn't need anything else....and what do you have? A bike that may compete, MAY compete, with a new 450R with a pipe, air filter, jetted...maybe even a cam. FOR A LOT LESS MONEY. Guys, it's a banshee site, I understand that. You know how much I love the bike....god knows I've spent enough to make two or three banshees, trail, dune and drag race....but, I only have one to show for it.... Now I'm not saying I personally...cause hell, I'm 31...out of shape (round is a shape, though) overweight, etc. But equal skill riders on a trail'd up banshee vs. a near box stock 4 stroke will get beat all day long....for less money invested. Tell me this. Factory guys have a near limitless budget, how many top names compete on banshees? ZERO...not one. They get the best motor parts from the factory, they get the best suspension, etc. Hell, they could make a shopping cart into a MX or GNCC bike if they wanted to. But what do they all choose? A new style 450.... I completely, totally and 100% understand the need for speed, the rush of any two stroke, let a lone the twin banshee... And I also understand wanting to build what you have...not sell for something else... Believe me, I do. And I'm all for it...go for it. But my point from page 1, paragraph 1, sentence 1 is that the 4 stroke is a better trail bike out of the crate, it's cheaper to go faster on, and easier to go faster on. Hell, while I'm on it...a 250R is a better trail bike..... That's all I'm saying. I'm not saying you can't make a banshee a trail bike, I'm just saying there are better, easier and cheaper choices.....

Hard to say...but, you have other, cheaper options to check first. Also...stock coils are known for having the end caps that snap onto your spark plugs go bad, as well... throw that on the list...

What kind of CDI box, and what did you do with the old one? there is a regulator that plugs in (silver box) right next to the CDI, did you accidentally unplug that? Try new bulbs...too. CDIs are like women, unpredictable at best, sometimes they work, sometimes they don't...and sometimes they'll half ass work ... There are a lot of things that could make the bike not idle. Plugged jets/dirty carb. Wrong pilot jets. Wrong air screw setting, clogged air filter, old/stale gas and oil in the tank, fouled spark plugs... The list goes on....but those are the things I'd check first, free...only your time is involved.

A lot of people do...I see it all the time. You're better off parting it out or selling on ebay.... Our economy around here sucks...period.

You just pretty much cemented my point. Who said you have to buy a brand new YFZ? Buy a used one, which can be had all day long for 3 to 4K in GREAT Shape, often with a pipe and air filter already on them. Put 500 to 1000 in it, still have less invested, and it is WAY better of a trail bike. I know my bike now is setup to drag race, but as said....this is my first year on a full drag bike. Cause before this year, I was still riding trails, dunes, everything on a banshee.... And I rode with a bunch of guys on 450s, Rs and YFZ....and it wasn't even fun or close to ride with them....period. Now...that being said, it's my fault I've taken this off topic....sorry bout that. I think once you clean your jetting up on the bottom end for that bike, you need to put money into suspension and tires. A Arms, aftermarket shocks, etc. Just be careful, the normal trend is to go wider up front and back...and if you ride that tight of trails, squeezing between two trees just got more hectic... Also get some good tires, for trails I like RAZR 2s...they are meaty bastards. Good luck, sorry I got so far off topic!

Hey....no problem. Unfortunately, my dune/sand season is over....so, I'm gonna have to wait for a lake to freeze...LOL.... Have fun and be careful...

Ask Jim @ Passion what he thinks your jetting should be. It's his motor and he should be able to tell you where it likes fuel. I didn't have that big of mains in my 4 mil cub when I had 35PWKs...so, I think you can go leaner, but ask him. Keep in mind, it takes a good motor to pull 6th gear in sand...but...a properly jettied and geared dune ported bike such as yours should pull it no problem. By the way, just out of curiosity... What gearing are you running, what size rear tires, how much air pressure and how many paddles? That has a TON to do with it as well. How much timing are you running? And...last but not least, let us know how much compression you're running....

Absolutely.... Play with 4 to 7 degrees of timing...see what your motor likes.