dajogejr

taking off too many times on a cold motor can do this too, but excess clearance is the number one cause, unless you windowed the pistons.

I've yet to see a power valve DM. They have similar outside castings, that's about it... Bigger intakes, bigger bores, port work is different. The only similarities are they are made by CP.

How worn or shot were the shift forks to begin with? They have a coating on them from the factory. If they are worn to or past that coating they aren't gonna last long.

Compression doesn't burn more fuel. It creates more heat...more fuel "cools" the motor. Advancing the timing doesn't burn more fuel. It starts to burn the fuel that you have earlier. In extreme cases, and I'm talking high compression, highly advanced timing drag motors, you tune by more or less fuel for overrev, and timing as well... The reason I check squish is because you never know who cut what dome. Domes really aren't one size fits all. If someone cuts a dome with a squish range in mind for a user with a .012 base gasket, then they throw a .020 under there....it's incorrect. And vice versa. It takes minutes to check squish... The default answer isn't always throw more fuel at it....

Use BR8ES. A colder plug dissipates heat slower, it has no meaning on the temp of the spark, etc. We use colder plugs for our methanol bikes...for a near stocker on gas, stick with the BR8ES gapped .028 to .030

This is what you need to follow, to a T...instead of getting 20 different guesses and answers. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

I don't know....do you walk around in a skirt and heels in "drag"??? :biggrin:

I'd go with a 13. With a 12...you'll kink and throw that chain, it's too small. If it still doesn't have the low end you want, go up teeth on the back. ROUGHLY 2.5 teeth more on the back equals 1 tooth less on front. can't answer on the chain, all depends on how much adjustment is left and how stretched the chain is.

No...

While I don't care for the color choices itself...you can honestly say not a single corner was cut on this bike when it comes to paint, powder, chrome or polished metal. Color choice aside, this thing is purdy.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...622827QQptZATVs

remove both plugs at the same time, do one at a time.

I know you guys get sick of hearing this... But yes, that's what us drag race guys do. No Key switch, pull the tether to kill er...

Remove any and all bank accounts, etc. you have on file. Call Ebay, tell them you want to cancel your account. You need to create a new one....

You get what you pay for, remember that. I've yet to hear of a real satisfied customer of those products, other than unjustified claims on their site....

Please post links to the maker can buy them back cheaper than what he sells them for and return a profit... Actually, it's 170, plus shipping, that's a STARTING price...not buy it now...and it does not include domes. Bump for a good guy!

Word...Actron = Actjunk. Craftsman makes a nice kit, as does Snap on for more $$. Make sure the spark plug threads are as long on your tester as your spark plug itself (I think it's 14 or 16mm, not 100% sure on that) Shorter threads on the tester will create a low/false reading as well. Unless that motor has very, very aggresive porting on it, those compression numbers are low at 500 foot above seal level with a .010 shaved head. It should still attempt to start, however...even if those numbers are somewhat correct. Have you COMPLETELY cleaned the carbs? I"m talking remove every piece of brass, clean it, etc. Set float height, etc. Fresh fuel and oil? Fresh Spark Plugs, etc?

I just opened a box at work and remembered I had this. Looks like someone took a stump in the middle, folded it back and cut that piece off in the middle. It will still protect your chain, sprocket and brake rotor just fine. 20 bucks shipped including paypal fees. No...don't bother PMing me to see if I'll take 15, or 18, or 19.99 and a bottle of half empty tick tacs... It's been sitting at my desk at work for God knows how long, just cleaning up my area a bit. So...if you want it, PM me and I'll give you my papal. It'll be shipped same day as payment is received via Fed Ex Express Saver. Good, cheap, solid budget skid plate.

I apologize...I misread your post. I thought it said they are on 66.25...that's why I was like WTF. You've got 2-4 potential good bores left... Get them cleaned/bored out, see where that leaves you. Sorry for misreading the post....

Run it as is jetted and find out. Worst case, bump up two sizes....start fat...work down.

At 66.25, you're already at .090 over. .100 is the largest they make for OEM cylinders without resleeving them. At .080 over, the wall/water jacket barrier is already pretty thin...and you're past that. (By the way, 64.00 is stock, every .25mm is a .010 overbore. Wiseco does make a .010 piston, just have to go to their site...) My advice would be to look for used, less-bored cylinders. If you think a bore job of .010 won't clean up cylinders already at .090....I think you'd be throwing money and time away. Both on the bore, on the pistons, gaskets, fluids and your time, when you could've put that towards a better set.

AK...if I didn't know better, sometimes I'd swear you actually know what you're talking about.... Less Energetic Burn Spread? Remind me not to play you in scrabble. Bottom line is Cranking compression (what you measure with the gauge by kicking it over) does not determine octane need. Compression ratio (in short, total chamber volume vs. trapped chamber volume) does. Compression ratio more so than a timing advance will require more octane. I think you're fat on your pilots, lean on the mains...and you need a little more octane. Have you checked the deck surfaces for flatness. You changed the head out but have you checked the squish? Are you the same guy that said your mic only went to .035 and yours was "a bit more"??? Does the compression gauge you're using have the same length of threads as the actual spark plug, in other words...does it displace the same amount of volume as the spark plug while in the head? If not...your stock reading could very well be 125PSI and with the head/domes it could be in the low 170s. Combine higher compression (yeah, I know I preached about compression ratio...this is an EXAMPLE...), lack of fuel AND too tight of a squish band...you're asking for deto...

How about a picture of this crack so we know what and where we're dealing with.... JB Weld can be used, more than likely. I had an old 85 LT250 I used a piece of copper folded over and JB Weld to seal the cases, BIG hole... You have to clean the area good. Brake cleaner is good for that an not leaving a residue...

It's hard for us to tell you without pictures of could be worn items... We'd be guessing as much as you without having the bike there.

It's a knocking noise when the bike is running, even in Nuetral, sitting still with the clutch pulled in. It could be just about anything under the cover. From a missing clip, to a idler gear hitting the basket, to a broken fiber...anything. He's certain it's behind the clutch cover....(just chatted with him on the phone for a few...) It's time to drain the fluid and take a look to see what's a been a rubbing under there. Hell...it could even be the weights of the lockup hitting the cover....who knows.

In MI...it started years ago as they could only pull you over for something else, and ticket you for seat belt as an add on. Then it moved to they could pull you over for a seat belt violation only. It does open the door for a lot of other stuff, but bottom line is...if you got something illegal in your car, if you're under the influence, etc...does it matter if they pull you over for a stupid seat belt? If you have something to hide, it shouldn't matter how you got caught. I'm not an Obama supporter, but how does he fit into a state regulated law again? I just had to pay my mortgage and car insurance, does that mean it's his fault too? C'mon.... I'm a smoker, you should be able to smoke in your own car. You should not be able to smoke with underage children in the car. Why should they breathe the shit we smoke? Let's talk about something that is really hurting society... Fucking idiots that feel they can talk on the phone and text someone and actually drive. If it were my choice, you get a healthy ticket for texting. You'd get a ticket for talking on your phone in the car if it wasn't a hands free device.... I'm more worried about these fucking idiots doing that...and bitches putting on their makeup in the mirror than I am some guy not wearing his seatbelt....