dajogejr

Take it apart, bring the spring and orings to the store. The ball bearing won't wear out, and they're not going to have the hold down bolt at the store. Buy two orings and a long enough spring to where you can cut it. Cut the new spring a hair longer than the old, stack two orings, smash it down in a vice. It'll last a LONG time.

PM Minkia38...he's probably got 20 frames laying around.

Crank bearings OEM are like 30 I think, plus machine labor. Plus true and weld (or reweld) You can generally find a used one in perfect shape for 75 to 150 bucks, sometimes even trued and welded.

There is also an Oring in there. Buy a second Oring from the hardware store, and SMASH that down. It'll stay good for a much longer time.

Straight edge can find it...but can your eye see it...that's the question. .01 might be too small a number, but I'd say more than .020...yeah, that could cause issues...

You'll need to surface plate both cylinders....and possibly the head now that you've tightened it down and used it. Remove the cylinders, remove the head studs. You need a flat, FLAT surface and some nice 200 grit wet/dry sand paper. Move the top of the cylinder into a figure 8 motion until you can no longer see any "unscratched" surface on the gasket surface. Do the other one next. Then take the water neck off the head, take the domes out...and run it a few times in a figure 8 motion, make sure the sand paper is "scratching" the entire sealing surface. It happens...

The one in the picture is for the left side (ignition side) and it holds your radiator on. The small hole will go over a bump you have on the frame to hold it straight. The outer edge is where your front fenders attach to.

You can get new glass from Direct Drive for 23 bucks plus shipping...By the way...

You don't need to buy a cable luber, although they do make life easier. Take the cable off the bike. Get paper, make it into a "funnel" around the cable, spray WD40. Keep working the cable until the WD drips out the other end. keep going to "flush" it out. Then you're done. If it's more than a few years old...the ends are showing any kind of fray, or it doesn't free up nicely, replace it.

Your head doesn't look warped? So...your eyes are good enough to see a .01 or bigger variance? Please.... Changing a top end more often will make it warp faster if anything...un-torquing then re-torquing the fasteners will cause it to warp faster than just sitting on the motor and run. Overheating and improper torque specs will cause it to warp...or a smoked piston that might hit the head....

You want around .045 or so. Close enough works for 2X4's framing in a door or a window. A digital Mic is cheap, you can get one at Harbor Freight for around 20 bucks. You're not a machinist...so you don't need one accurate to .0000001 inches. I use .065 solder with a resin core (smashes easier than a solid piece) Pull both spark plugs, push down on the kick starter one time nice and easy, that'll turn the motor over at least once or twice. As said, it is critical you place the solder left to right instead of front to back, because the piston rocks front to back a hair due to the pivot point on the wrist pin bearing. There are two ways to fix it. And each is dependant on your motor. You can either run a thicker (more squish from raising the cylinder and head) or thinner (less) base gasket, or you can have different domes cut based on your deck height. Deck height is the amount a piston sticks out of the bore when it's at top dead center. Playing with different base gasket thickness can be a good or bad thing. It alters your port timing, in other words...how soon your piston pulls an intake charge of fuel/air into the cylinder and how fast the exhaust charge gets spent out the exhaust port(s). If you keep spitting head gaskets or Orings, and your squish is within reason (Say .042 to .050 on average) I'd say you either have an uneven/warped cylinder and/or cylinder head. Wait... You have a cool head and are using a head gasket? Or are you talking about the Orings. If you're using a flat head gasket with an aftermarket head, there's your problem.

I got one better...eyeball. Turn the carb upside down, when the bottom of the float is level...it's set.

I've never had an issue with a clutch not releasing fully with EZ Pull levers/perches. Maybe if you only buy a lever, but I've always bought the perch and lever...never an issue. I say buy a new clutch cable every other year. They're cheap....and if used a lot they tend to stretch out. With an EZ Pull and new cable, your clutch will feel like a brand new 125 dirt bike clutch, one finger easy...Kinda Like Firehead. He he he...

I'm pretty sure he means the actual spark plugs themselves loosening from the cylinder head. Not normal, not good... I had some clown on another site argue with me that it can be normal due to the vibration of the motor. Uh...yeah....

No one has mentioned an air leak....

Make sure you know what they'll pay out. I think I paid 80 or so a year back when I carried insurance on mine. IN case of theft, fire, etc., they'd cover blue book...which at the time was like 2200. I can't even build my motor for that even at my cost, so I dropped it. I asked about a rider for more coverage, they didn't offer it. I told them it would take me 8000 to 12000 to build my bike as is from scratch, they couldn't do anything for me. (State Farm) I had receipts, pictures, you name it...nadda.

When it comes to the possibility of a slide sticking on a bike, be it track, trail, etc., I tend to err on the side of caution. When a bike sticks WOT, it's never when you expect it....LOL. If you use the hold downs correctly (sometimes you have to bend them toward the carb) there is no way that cap can loosen up. Put a notch on the carb cap into the little V on the hold down, it won't go anywhere...

Those carb caps should only be hand tight (Risk of them sticking open if you tighten them by a wrench) I'd say they're pretty much critical...get some at the dealer...or see if a member here has any laying around. I hate to say this...but in a 100% JAM, duct tape the carb top. I know that's rigged, but if you had a trip planned and couldn't get the parts OR were stuck somewhere, that's what I'd do until I could get the correct part. Obviously, there is a left and right side holder, make sure you get the right one...

You're gonna get better throttle response. 300 bucks is high, you could've put that towards porting and made a SHIT ton more power than reed cages alone. IMO...VF3 respond well to built motors, drag motors, etc. I'm assuming you have stock carbs/stock intakes. You'll notice it snappier, but if you put it on a dyno you'd barely notice a few HP at best. even with stock carbs and aftermarket pipes, porting will be the biggest HP improvement hands down. Run the stock stuffers, do not get the big square aftermarket ones. I love that screen name...bad ass!!! :biggrin:

First time I started my 10 mil on meth, it rev'd up to about 5 or 6K (slides weren't closed all the way, mental fart) Did that 3-4 times before I realized to look at the carbs. Needless to say, I didn't just dump it in gear and pull the clutch... Once I fixed the carbs, then I pulled the clutch and let it warm up a minute or two in 1st gear. I wouldn't say it's critical...it's to lube the 5th gear pinion. But still a good idea...

Probably a PRM...and it probably cost 1000.

Ditto...haven't used outerwears for years.... That guy listed the absolute highest retail price for everything on that thing....if he paid that much for it, shame on him. 250 for a rear carrier? C'mon....

Correct. The air strykers were made for MX application, bogging from low rpms or landing from a hard jump...these carbs address that. For gas trail/dune bikes they're great. I've heard they can be a pain to tune in for methanol, but I've never used on for that, so I couldn't tell you first hand.

My bro is no longer doing cranks...sorry. You're in the same boat as a lot of these guys...looking, looking...

The forks wear based on the load put on them, not the lack of lubrication. I have a WCR 1-5 N down tranny and I just tore my motor down, put it all back together over the weekend. Forks look great, tranny looked great. Ask anyone, my bike has been beaten to death, rode by everyone and their brother at the track, dunes, etc. These things are pretty damn durable...you will be perfectly fine. I was told by WCR to run ATF Type F in the trans, and change it every other ride. I keep saying, adding an override is like adding 10-20HP, and it should be on every bike...