dajogejr

Next up...where to hide a bong on your banshee. Wait....we've already been there and done that....

To be honest...ride the bike and see how it goes. A dyno can make a guy grin ear to ear one minute and cry the next....or vice versa. I've beaten dyno queens that look good on paper, and I've gotten beaten by smaller motors setup better, flat out. If the bike is setup somewhat correct, you should notice quite a bit of difference in the performance. Did you get a chance to dyno it "before" all this work to get an estimated baseline....

So...now that school is done and the short bus has dropped you off, I'm still waiting on your suggestion on what he should do. You bash me for saying one thing, yet ALL you've done is rant on me. I don't see a suggestion by you anywhere...just crying, over an over. Please tell me how you've helped this guy,and how you've helped this forum. Cry me a river...I was mean to you...boo hoo. Your dumb ass was the one that got on here acting like I answer every question as if I only have ever drag raced banshees. I painted the broader picture of my background and what I've done in the past, not to "show my almighty knowledge" as you put it, but to show I've been trail riding and recreation riding longer than I have been drag racing. I know you don't undestand this, so let me try to explain. Some day, you might grow up and get a job. When you do...you'll need what's called a resume. That's what I've provided. Except I can foresee your future and tell you your resume right now, it'll will involve Burger King, McDonalds Or Wendys. Not that it's a bad thing....but when you're 50 years old and too stupid to comprehend anything else, your parents will be dissapointed in you coming home smelling like a french fry every night. You posted earlier that you would stop posting. You haven't. You posted earlier that I haven't offered anything here as a logical suggestion, I have. What exactly, besides extra cry towels and tears, have you provided to this thread...let alone this forum? Are you still pissy because you were banned for being a complete jack ass on everything2stroke? Poor baby. It was so bad over there....that you created another user name and tried to get back on, and I have the proof...by the way. So cry me a river. Do us all a favor, either: a. Quit posting (like you already said you would) or b. Help this guy out with all your profound knowledge and experience. My bet is c. You'll do neither....and prove what a jackass you are. Keep proving me right, please.

That frame is definately different looking, that's for sure. Since it's a drag only bike, let me know when you need an override... Stockers drag ported right on meth make some serious power....I just can't see a drag built purpose bike without an override being effective or consistent. It'll be fast, don't get me wrong.... Lookin good...

Hey...Dyno Queen...get with the program. Get the cable and setup some custom curves...will ya? :biggrin: :beer:

Need to measure the center of the pivot point (where it mounts to the frame) to the center of the bearing carrier (center of the axle) Could you post a pic by any chance?

My pleasure... I would do a search here for leak down tester. You can buy one cheap, or make your own and it could save you some grief and money....IF it is a crank seal and should it happen to get worse... Good luck...

I understand...it's easy for me to spend your money... With the spacer plate, crank and fresh pistons it will be noticeably stronger, but the icing on the cake will be porting...porting to match at that. Inland will give you pistons to whatever size you need. If your motor only needed to be .020, you'd be wasting a LOT of bores just to make .080 over pistons work... from .020 to .080 you really won't notice a difference in power...it's only a handful or so of cc's. Good luck to ya... call Inland up first to make sure they have the smaller pistons in stock (I'm about 99.9% certain they do...)

It should be at least mid 50's with no compression and no timing advance. A mild built 4 mil stroker with compression and timing will probably be mid to high 60s....and fun as all hell to ride. I agree...what's the air/fuel at?

That is Inland ATV. That kit comes with a 66mm piston, which is .080 over, not .020. Buy the kit, ditch the spacer, get cut domes and spend a couple hundred bucks to get the porting matched to a 4 mil crank. You're gonna end up spending an additional 500 bucks or so for domes and matched porting... The bike will be night and day difference, but the crank alone won't make much difference, porting to match the crank, and porting in general....will. What about the cases. I might have skimmed over it...but are you going to get them repaired, buy a used set, etc? To answer your other question, 66 bore on a 58 stroke would be a 396 motor. A .020 over piston (64.50mm) bore to a 58 stroke would be about 380 ccs.

That's got SCAM written all over it.

The title is setting up a trail monster and he's looking for input. I gave my input. I gave my suggestions. The original poster wasn't offended by it. Then school got out... Maybe this guy hasn't thought out of the box. Maybe money isn't an issue, and he can afford to have both, a fun banshee and a good trail 4 stroke. It's just as fair for me to offer suggestions and make assumptions as you guys...yet I'm wrong because I didn't take the "banshee way"... I'm not sitting here crying in my cheerios...I get stereo typed as a drag racer only. It's just not so... I was trail riding and rigging banshees back in high school long before overides, lockups and aftermarket cylinders were even a thought...or before I even knew what methanol is. The funny thing is...the one objecting and running their mouth the most still has yet to offer a suggestion, like usual. If you want to bitch at me, comment, hate...whatever, that's fine. I can take it. Why don't you offer up help since you have enough time to hate on me....instead of being a hypocrite. That statement wasn't directed at you Rhino, rather everyone in general offering their two cents about me rather than help the guy out.

I refuse to sell gay pictures of myself on the Internet for funding Mark...so, you do what you have to...I'll go to work every day... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

With a 12 tooth, do you have issues with the chain binding? I've had that issue...plus, it spins the motor and tranny too fast for my liking. I'd rather go 13 on the front and maybe 43 or 44 on the back....

If the crank seal is bad on the right side (clutch/PTO side) it would normally foul that spark plug...and the smell of burnt tranny fluid can never be confused with burnt two stroke oil...lol. Normally, a bad PTO crank seal won't leak enough to show a real noticeable loss of fluid, but it will foul the plug quicker and tranny fluid usually doesn't burn quite like two stroke oil...so it won't run great. It's very, very hard to tell if the rings are worn or are still good...especially since you just got this bike and don't know how it ran when it was "fresh".

The J Arms are a weaker design, but now it's to the point you're riding on 20 year old ball joints. I would look for a quality D arm as said...and get YFZ shocks. I've read of a lot of problems with guys using YFZ Shocks on stock A Arms due to ball joints getting smoked....and it sits higher as well. 87sheerips D Arms are tough as nails and well built, I'd have no concerns about trail riding with those....

Well...you were by no means "lean..." LOL. Who knows what the carbs were on before, but I can tell you sometimes when a turn key engine gets sold carbs are left VERY Fat and final tuning is on the owner... I agree with Wes on the pilots. I think a 155 to 160 main will get you right. I tend to like the CEL or DEK needles for gas on PWKs.

The only con would be price... Compared to a stock OEM CDI from a DEALER, it's still cheaper...lol. If you have the means to program it (laptop, cable and a Dyno to tune it) I say go for it. The out of the box curves could help or hurt your motor, no guarantee....

To be honest, your cylinders are at .080. I would run a spacer below the cylinders....and run it. You don't have a ton of life on them, AND...most will agree resleeving them isn't worth the cost due to how cheap OEM cylinders can be found and the lack of transfer are left after it's sleeved. While I'm not fond of the spacer plate...in your case, I think it's the quickest, easiest and most cost effective. I would not run those spaced out head gaskets...I'd run the plate on the bottom. It will raise your port timing and there is less pressure on a base gasket than there is a head gasket/oring up top.

I assume you ride TT, if that's a picture of you hanging it out sideways in your avatar. If you're happy with the PVL, leave it as is. A PVL can be adjusted pretty easily track side with a dial caliper and basic tools. The Dyna has 4 curves you can program in, but any more and it's get the laptop out and try to guesstimate. Sure it has 3 pre programmed curves, but my belief is unless you're gonna take the time to actually dyno the Dyna and get the laptop/cable to program it, I personally don't think it's worth it. I had one....it worked, but I went back to OEM. ( I Know...I'm a drag racer, and I could've used a NOS curve, a race fuel curve, etc., rev limiter, etc.) I never got around to the dyno and OEM works fine for me. Have you ever compared lap times and consistency with a stock setup vs. a PVL?

I don't know if the Havoc guys are still making arms or not, would have to ask (PM Blewbyu on here) I know for a fact stellar performance won't let you down (Tim @ AZCUSTOMS) Cascade has some of the sickest bikes out there, no doubt. But their stuff is very, very pricey.

Not really...a little unburnt fuel and oil get pushed out the exhaust, it could just mean the seal on the header pipe/stinger tube is bad. It happens. You can get high temp reinforced hose to seal that for pretty cheap, usually 20 bucks or so. I would start with a compression test to see the health of the motor. Use a good compression tester. While nothing can substitute pulling the top end off and actually measuring everything to check actual wear, I have a hard time telling someone to pull apart a top end when the bike is running good.... If you're at or near sea level...a noss head with 20cc domes on a stocker motor will put you roughly in the 150 to 160 PSI range. If you're in that ball park, I say run it. Get new seals for the pipe joints. Here's examples for a 1.0 diameter stinger: http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=199&page=1 For a 1.25 inch stinger http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=199&page=1

You're going to find people have had good/bad with them. I'd choose WSM or Wiseco... Wiseco has raised their prices in the last few months...but you simply can't go wrong with them. To quote some famous nut hugging founder on this site "You can go broke saving money.." I like Wiseco, fouledout has had a stellar running 4 mil cub using WSM pistons for the past two years (Nate McCoy likes these)...without issue. If you do a search on Namura Pistons on the board you'll get plenty of reading, but the general consensus is Wiseco....

Once again....talking out your ass. Anyone that rides with me knows I ride the ever living piss out of my bike. Do I let lighter riders make passes to see what kind of times it can turn? Yes. Go to any sanctioned race and you'll see the same thing. I'm sorry I wasn't born a scrawny little mama's boy like you. I'm a big guy...and I know I'm not the only one. But unfortunately there are more scrawny clowns like you out there on the keyboard who type tough and that's it. Once again...you started the drama, you've posted all this crap, crying and whining, and I've still yet to see you offer him any suggestion from your own experience. You wanted to keep this on PMs, yet you keep going and going running your mouth here, and STILL have no suggestion for him. And to be honest, I'm sure the 10000 people PM'd you to say what a pompous ass and jerk I am... I'd bet I typed something in the last few years that helped them though...doubt we could say the same for you drama queen. Fat guy up in MI is the best you can do. C'mon...really? So we are 12 now. The reason I didn't say anything about a 250R is because, as I'm sure you geniuses are all aware of, they were only made for 4 years, are getting harder to find in decent shape, and are expensive if you do...and parts are harder to fine and getting more scarce. You could say the same for an LT or Tecate as well. I'll make this school lesson simple for the little kids....since you're probably watching cartoon getting ready to get shipped off to school. You can make the banshee a decent woods motor for a little price. You are still stuck with a 20 year old suspension design and geometry. You can buy a arms, shocks, etc. But the frame is still 100% crap. I trail rode banshees for a long time, I'm not just some little kid that but a boost bottle on one, a new set of grips...and air filter and thought it was cool. That's all we'd ride is trails. When I was younger I didn't have the money to build a drag bike like I have now, so me and buds would load up a trailer and go trail ride...and we'd do it for hours and days on end. I know how they ride in ruts, whoops, sand, wide open flat trails, berms, etc. Angel Ripper, don't be so banshee head strong and follow the paths of these clowns. You too could be the laughing stock of the HQ if you want to follow their lead. I'm sure Kim did very well on a banshee. Tell me if he still rides one. Tell me how many are now in GNCC and moto cross races. Tell me how many factory teams there has been for them in the past 5 years or so. Please....tell me. Thought so. Bellracing. I respect what you're saying, I respectfully disagree...that's all. You've been civil with me and avoided the childish name calling and actually contributed to this thread, I respect that and you. We can agree to disagree but still be civil. Something the kids just don't understand....

10 plugs @ 29.00 is 290 (I'm just going by what you previously posted, I honestly don't have a clue how much they are.) 100 plugs @ 2.00 is only 200 bucks...and an hour of dyno time is 50 to 75 bucks...you're still making out.