dajogejr

Oh boy...here we go. Yes...just like the street racing in Miami....there is someone bombing around in a 150 HP banshee with a stock swingarm and it is just fine...and he trail rides it all day long. Otherwise...if you have a duner...that's a little too much...and you can build a LOT better dune bike with much less but manageable power.

Hey...I'm not the one that needs to race on a hill to "get it up".... :biggrin:

I've rode the loops at Peacock, they are awesome...period. It's been a few years, but I'm sure it hasn't changed much...isn't club 131 right at the trailhead?

Dynos are good for comparing mods....the track is where it's at.

Yep...time to go.

I'd try better fuel, check all your clearances...but seeing the burn marks on the bottom side of the piston means it got REAL hot at the crown then grenaded on you. You need to check compression ratio, not just cranking compression to figure out what fuel you need. As said, lack of octane, air leak, lack of fuel (I think you're jetting sounds about right...or close enough) all can cause this.

I'd go 40's all day long. The most common way to use a fuel pump is drill your cylinder for a barb fitting (pulse/vacuum pumps) and plumb it in that way. The intake in front of the reeds is a good spot for the pulse/vaccum signal.... In Lectrons, you also need 3.3 needle and seat. If you use gravity fed needle and seats on a pump, it'll overpower their sealing and drip fuel all over.

I'll word this a different way... Within a short time frame of getting your motor, you may have the very best the builder could offer. Maybe, maybe not. But....for example, if your builder runs the same motor you do...it's a helluva lot easier to take their own motor apart, change this or that, and possibly find a little hidden power. What's easier, a builder to tear and test his own motor or ask you to keep shipping yours back and forth to test/tweak. Any builder that just does a port job and calls it a day isn't trying very hard...the ones constantly tinkering to try and get a little more here, little more there...those are the guys that shine. No builder started out being the best or the fastest...they've built probably more slower motors than fast when they did start out. And they've probably broke a ton of shit, too.... That's part of the learning curve.... Also, keep in mind. Just because it works for them, doesn't necessarily mean it'll work for you....

Obviously, compared to a stock cylinder with OEM porting vs a very good port job, you will NEVER see that kind of increase. But you can get more ponies out of them...without a doubt. Koolguy made a very good point. It's not just grinding on a cylinder, it's the WHOLE package for the motor, and then the setup to get that power to the ground efficiently.

Based on his response on Planet Sand, I think he needs the bye bye stick. "i got enough mnoney to buy anything i want.. lol money has nothing to do with the situation you trying to address.."

Sorry...I was at my buddy's house all day putting my motor together (by chance the same guy that cuts trannies.) PM'd you the info...but I'll tell you my 3-4 weeks is a true 3-4 weeks. Not 5-8 weeks. It's only fair to be 100% honest up front...so you have the info, let me know.

My guy is easily at least a few weeks out. Swamped. If you're in a hurry (like a week or two) I'd be doing you a dis-service by telling you I can get you one quickly!

Dunable override, you can let off the gas whenever you want. It will wear the forks quicker if you constantly let off the gas at TOP RPM...but it won't break it like tomorrow or next week. Even a standard cut override is a little more robust than previously thought, but a dunable is the way to go. 1-5 N down is my favorite by far....and what I run. It is the most versatile.

Keep the compression and timing down and run pump/race fuel. Methanol is not in your future yet.... You'll burn through it at least twice as fast as gas, so it just doubled in price realistically. Plus you'll use more oil (methanol is corrosive and it's a good idea to burn more oil)...then, are you familiar/aware of the purge routine to clean the meth fuel out of the bike?

Hate to say it, but we'll be here to say I told ya so. And...especially with a lockup.... You'll be able to shift it...but I promise lesser motors will beat you if they have an override. It's like adding 10 to 20 HP just being able to shift every time AND keep the motor in the meat of the power band.

Yes. Probably in the high 40s to low 50s. What compression ratio and cranking compression are you running, by the way?

I wouldn't split apart a good running motor just to do the mod. However... If it was being split for another reason, then go for it. On my 4 mil I took a base gasket, used a marker and drew the outline, then had at it with a dremel. You do not want a polished smooth surface, you want a smooth surface with a rough texture, if that makes sense...

Take the bowl off, remove the drain screw and clean all that out good. If it doesn't seat properly...it'll leak. Any dirt/gum will settle there....

25 (stock) or 27.5 pilots will work fine for your bike. If you removed the airbox all togther (pod filters) I'd lean to 27.5 pilots. To be clear, are the overflow tubes leaking or the drain line. There are two tubes, one on either side of the carb half way up the slide area. those are the overflow. There is one tube on the very bottom, that is the drain. Floats stuck, improperly adjusted or dirt in the needle/seat can cause them to overflow...

We run silenced pipes on our bikes, because they supposedly check the noise in the dunes (again, haven't seen it in a long time) The same sparkies I used on my T5 silencers back in the day work on my Shearer Silencers. I know they make slip on sparkies for CPIs, too. No one in the dunes runs stinger tube pipes...we're all used to the game.

I'd say 27.5 or 30 pilots depending on your riding temps and elevation, which if you posted it...I didn't read it. 320 to 340 on the mains, again, temp and elevation not known. I'd say you got the electrical wet as well. Remove the plastic cover on the left side (shifter side, remove the foot peg and shifter) and look for water in there. Blow some compressed air in there... Double check that gap between the flywheel nubs and the pickup coil. Also get some die-electric grease and seal up the CDI connectors, stator connectors and the coil connectors. Lastly, if you still have a stock coil/coil wires, replace the factory coil ends with NGK Spark Plug ends.

Yep... 39's on alky will work fine. JT had 39s on gas on his 4 mil cub and it ripped. But I think 39s' on alkys with T5s is a waste to be honest...with or without the big gas tank. Something else to consider... What compression ratio AND cranking compression are you at? What is your squish? How much timing are you running. Are you planning on all out duning, drag race only, etc? I know you asked about the carb size...but there are other factors in the equation a lot of us have gone through and are offering to help curb your learning curve...

I think you'll spend more time and effort getting those to work than getting a port done on your current cylinders.

I'll be that idiot. Don't break the law.... Asswhore, a guy we rode with Dan Sands (Speedrip) got hit two years in a row...I watched them get him Memorial day last year.... What can ya do?

Chariot Racing makes SRP cages for Magic. Go right to Chariot. He does not make reeds. Contact Tony Dukas, (TDR, banshee super store) I know he used to make epoxy reeds for just about anything, see if he still does. http://www.bansheedepot.com/categories.asp?cat=29