FIRST BANSHEE

Jim, nice to meet everyone

correct me if i'm wrong, but a yz 400 is a 2 stroke, at least the one i had in my 250r was. so your not really riding a 4 stroke.i wish i never sold that one, but i needed money. that was the fastest quad i ever owned.

It's not stuck closed, it's like I have a shitload of air. What you said there is probably what's happened, I'm so f'in thick sometimes, that's probably exactly what happened. I'm just gonna suck all the fluid out and then put all new in and eliminate any chance of trapped air. Thanks rod. 283869[/snapback] have you tried bleeding with a line on the bleeder going in a bottle with brake fluid in it. as your pumping the pedal you can see if any air is being pumped into the bottle, and it doesn't suck any air back because the hose is in the fluid. it works pretty good.

I'm here to the bitter end,2-strokes forever.

14/41 is stock but with a couple of bolts ons you might like a 15 in the front better.

do a compression check, possible that a ring was broke when reassembling. did you just do the topend or the whole motor. make sure your clutch is adjusted properly at the case and lever. maybe do a leak down test.

they still haven't invented a good fast 4-stroke yet.with a good maintaince schedule you should get more than 60 hours. check all your electial connections,make sure you have a good ground. is all the stock electrical still intact.

the t-6s are great on a stock port engine,strong bottom, mid,and good top. trinity cv intake is awesome, strong bottom,mid, and good top.v-force reeds are the best in my opinion. ricky stator adjustable timing plate without stator $35 with stator $125. +4 degrees mill head .025-.030, $25-$50 local machine shop. all these mods will increase your bottom but still have a good topend. good luck

I would pick up a 27.5 and 30 for the pilot unless your close to a parts store. On the main i would start at 350, every machine is different though.

The choke tube is properly in place. I have fooled around wit the idle screws and really didn't get anywhere. I have also tweaked the idle air screws. None of this seems to help. The things that separate it from a stock bike are Boyesen RAD Valves, open air cleaners, drag port job, drag pipes, Dyna box on curve 1, and a coolehead configuration that is making 230 psi. The carbs are stock, bored to 28mm by White Knuckle Racing. I only know that because the guy had the receipt for it. As far as I know I do not have any air leaks and nothing else is real screwy. Thanks for all the help, please keep it coming. 282888[/snapback] having a drag port, drag pipes, and bigger carbs, 310 mains sound lean to me and a stock pilot is probabaly to small. I would increase the pilot myself and see how it starts. you may need to increase your mains also.also at 230 psi cylinder pressure you need race fuel. bad gas will also make it hard to start.

sounds like you work at a cool place, let us know the results.

I would check the plugs first, they sound fouled. Change them if needed,then check your jetting

I would sugest the trinity cv intake with a 35mm carb. the power increase is awesome throughout the rpm range. Plus it's way more dependable and easy to tune, looks great too. your riding with your buddies you'll never be the one with carb troubles, unlike banshees with twins. I'll never switch back.

I bought a wiseco hot rod crank new. it was $380.

i agree, check the thors related parts first. also make sure you didn't pinch any wires when the motor came out or went back in. make sure you have a good ground.

I have always run my 2- strokes at 32-1, I like the extra oil for the bottomend.

being .030 over is'nt going to affect dependability, how you maintain it will. I hate to pay asking price but it does'nt sound bad. If the machine work was done properly and broke in correctly, it should last quite awile. depending on maintaince and how you ride.

ok when i measured it with the micrometer i got 65.5 BUT the part number on top ends with 6600 and the local shop told me that that means that i have a 66.00mm piston which is .080 i am thinking i should go with the .080 over 282598[/snapback] if i remember correctly the top of your right piston said .060, it was hard to tell in the picture though.

sounds like it will work to me. I think i will try that also, You think after all these years yamaha would've changed that.

I wouldn't sandblast a part that needs to be flat, when your done the surfaces will no longer be true.

t-6s were made for a stock port engine,i'm happy with mine. The rad valve is pretty restrictive, I noticed a big difference between the rad valve and delta 2s. sounds like you also need good fuel, and always recheck your jetting with any mod that has to do with air or fuel.

is your cylinder pressure equal, if it's not completely broke in, maybe one side isn't sealed up yet

I liked my edges alot for all around duning, But the holeshot wasn't great. They are 20-10-10 8 paddle. i bought 20-10-8 10 paddle extermes. all around duning is good and the holeshot is great. Very happy with the extremes.

my guess is crank seals. On the left you suck air and melt down. On the right you suck oil and it's more forgiving.

sounds like it's lean, backfiring is usually a lean condition, white plugs lean condition. oily plug on the right side could be a crank seal. check for air leaks and jet up 2 sizes and see how it runs.