FIRST BANSHEE

with your mods you should have a decent lowend, double check your timing make sure you didn't retard the timing that would take any from the lowend.I'd also call the builder and make sure he didn't give you a drag port.

you have to adjust the mains, probably the needle, maybe the pilot. Depends on where you live, how cold it gets and what your banshee wants.

you need the clamp to prevent an exhaust leak, if you don't mind the leak don't clamp it

I kept mine so the cooling system would work the it was designed to.With out it your going to lose coolant, and have to keep refilling. Just my opinion

I believe your manual will have a minium thickness for the frictions, Mine were in spec but were burnt and glazed so I replaced them. Hope this helps. Jim

there just made of milded steel any muffler shop should be able to mig weld for you, or you could have them brazed. tig welding will cost you a little more. good luck.

On my 250r, I have 215psi,and it doesn't run well on 100. I use 110 or better in it

your pipes could have alot to do with the powerband,you didn't say what you are using. Compression and timing will add some bottom end.

Don't forget the outerwear

Dude I need you to tune my shee, I can't ride close to 18 hrs on 2 tanks.

I run the trinity cv intake with a 38mm pj, I don't think I'll ever run duals. This setup is easy to tune, makes great power bottom to top,all around better system unless your going for all topend.

Dude your losing your mind

your reeds will make it hard to start if there chipped or hanging open and it will effect your idle. if there not chipped you could try flipping them. To get the most life out of your reeds you should flip them about every 10 hrs of riding. Hope this helps.

3-5 degrees for the best all around performance is what has worked best for me. But I have no porting done.

Have you noticed he only answers ? the way he thinks they should be answered, then the next day contradicts him self. He's what you call jackass dumb

I believe the plugs should be gapped .028-.032, I'd check with the dealer

If I remember correctly, the PT silencers have a male end on them and the pipes are female, so they wouldn't fit without some cutting and welding. You won't get as much for your Bill's if you try to sell them pipes only, so my opinion is just to belly up and get the Fatboy silencers, then sell your Bills outright. You'll get more money that way and your fitment will be perfecto!! BTW, to everyone, I just replaced my shittily modified CPI silencers that were supposed to fit my PT's with some Fatboys that are made for them, AND they came with PINK Fatboy2 stickers. WTF!! All that dough, and the f'in stickers are pink? f*ck that. Them stickers are already rolled up in the dumpster where they belong, what happened to the blue sticker? i'd get the fatboys to, I think they sound as good as toomeys well close to them

Duals for the topend, single for bottom to top but a little less on top, I run the single it's easy to tune looks great, and you don't have the normal banshee carb troubles. just my opinion

Yes, there is a need for the crossover tube. I'm not much for explaining the whole deal behind it, but without a doubt, if I ever go back to dual carbs, I'll be using the Pro Design Intake and it has the spots for a crossover tube. I've seen dynos with just a change from stock to PD Intake and there's a nice increase in performance. I've heard the Boss intakes are good as well, tho I've never seen dynos showing the added power. I wish I had the money to experiment with carb sizes also. I'm sure Trinity did some testing before they offered the kit to the public. If I hadn't sent my cylinders off for porting, I'd consider trying a 33mm. I think with the stock setup, the 33mm will work better. More velocity would mean more vacuum for the fuel and I think it would give better response, and make it easier to jet. I don't necessarily think the power will be a whole lot different with the 33, I just think the air velocity has a lot to do with how a carb performs and a 35mm carb is a big carb. With porting, it'll be flowing more air so there's the increase in velocity. Some people say why not just use a 38mm or something for a stroker, but at mid throttle or low rpms, there's less need for airflow and with a 38mm or bigger, there won't be much velocity at all and I think the power will suffer. I might try it one day. I'd still like to experiment with a 33 as well, and I just might!! Good luck on your carb decision. I had the 35 on and switched to the 38 off my 250r, it has a little less on the bottom, but I gained 5 mph on top. It definitly pulls harder. I have only bolt on parts no porting.

do those mods and you should have no problem. also I think 87-89 banshees had a 13 tooth front sprocket, gear up to a 14 or 15

I agree get your head milled, you want to keep your cylinder pressure below 165 psi to still run pump gas. also advance your timing 4 degrees. ricky stator timing plate $35, your local machine shop should be able to mill your head for $25 - $50.you should be able to cut your head .030 and still run pump gas.

pratice your holeshot, if he gets you out of the hole and you can't pull it back he'll have the same problem. try leaving in 2nd gear, by the time your 1/2 through third you should have him. also get sime pipes.

Yes it will melt, keep everything off the pipes. I would get the tires first, before shorting the swingarm.i've read in here good things about the kenda klaws, I'm going to try those. My stock tires suck

Good advice is good as gold

If your running stock rear tires I would upgrade those and add +4 degrees timing along with the other suggestions