bandanshee

Just finished some more porting on my cylinders and got it back together and rode it yesterday. My mods are in my sig. With these mods, I am running a 320 main and stock needle/pilot at about 75F and about 1700 feet. This just sounds lean to me. It ran fast as hell, and the plugs tell me that I am jetted about right. The only problem is a "flat" spot for about 500 rpm in the low-mid range where it seems to sputter and hesitate. This is right before powerband- it starts picking up at the low rpm fairly well, then hits this spot where it hesistates and sputters for a few seconds until it hits powerband then it takes off like crazy. Should I theoretically be running a fatter main than a 320? Also, I am wondering how I could work on the flat-spot problem. Maybe the stock reeds have something to do with it?

Hi- I rolled my shee awhile back and came down pretty hard on the front right tire/wheel. Now, the camber of that tire is all effed up (top of tire tilted in). The a-arm looks straight, and the ball joints are tight, but the part of the frame that runs parallel to the cross-section of the upper a-arm looks bent. Has anyone else had this happen? I imagine that there would be a way to fix it or at least improve it, but I'm not too sure how. I tried doing some prying with a pickle fork but no luck so far. Any ideas??

When I advanced mine, I noticed that the machine was alot more "jumpy" in the low rpm range, and I could not tell a difference on top. The advance probably has some effect on top end but I dont think it is at all noticeable. It should possible to gain top end by retarding the timing, but I have not tried it.

I cut the transfers today. Had to be real careful because I dont have a 90 degree tool, I just use a dremel flex shaft and some small-diameter coarse cutting wheels.Took my time and it worked very well. the tranfers where raised 1mm to bring me to 125.5, and that puts me at 32.5 for blow down. should work well. It's nice creating horsepower instead of buying it. (At least when you are a poor @@s in college!) The wide ex port doesn't seem to eat rings too bad. The rings are probably 60 hrs old and are in perfect shape, the gap is well within specs. Thanks for the replies.

Currently, with the ex. 28.0mm from the top and the transfers 43.0mm from the top, that is 190 and 120 degrees, so blow down is around 35. This seems a little high to me, but I am not sure. I just think that this could describe why it runs like it does- I have heard that too much blowdown can cause a motor to be peaky and not as responsive off-idle. Also- as far as the ex port width goes, the bore is 65.0mm and the width is 48mm, so Im pretty safe here (about 73.8%). how does the blown down duration sound?

Maybe the answer to this is on the forum already but I could not find it. anyway, my machine has a port-job that is very similar to the racelogic stage 3 setup, with a few changes. When I did the porting, I raised the exaust ports by almost 2mm from stock, in addition to widening them out alot. I did not do any real work on the transfers except for the lower case area. The quad is fast now (t5s, +4 timing, milled head), but it is a little pipey, and doesnt seem to rev-up quite as well as a stock machine! (the low rpm throttle response just sucks). I am wondering if raising the tranfers by 1mm or so would give me better response and maybe smooth out the power band. At first, I thought that the lack of response was coming from jetting or compression, but both of these are dead on (about 150 for compression, and jetting is on the lean side of perfect). I ran FMF fatties with this motor before I got t5's and the same thing happened with both pipes. This is not to say that the machine is not fun to ride or a pain to ride. The porting was basically free and gave an insane power increase, but im always looking for ways to improve things!

Im from Ephrata, by the moses lake dunes. Since the temp varies alot here, I constantly change jets. My motor has a medium-dune type port (not too huge), milled head, and I run t5's with +4 timing and k&n clamp-on filters. When it's really hot i can get away with a 310 main and stock needle in the 3rd position, with the stock pilots (airscrew about 1.5 out), using 100 octane. Usually, if the temps are in the 50-70 range, i run a 320 or 330 main to be safe. I also ride down in florence oregon once a year, and last year I had to up my main one size, because of the lower elevation. 100 octane fuel is not really required for +4 timing and a .030 head around here, but in the oregon dunes it is a must, as pressure from the lower elevation creates more compression. Where in WA are you from?

Just got a set of t5's to replace my fatties, and i am wondering what to do with my jetting. I am also installing an adjust. timing plate, prolly around +4 or so. I ran a 300 main, needle on 4th clip, stock pilot with the fatties. My other mods are light porting, milled head, pod filters, ect. Also, is there any danger with the timing advance combined with the milled head and 92 octane? If anyone is intersted in the fatties they will be for sale soon. Pretty good cond. chrome is not too bad at all, no dents, One silencer is missing two rivets (easy fix), and has some minor scratches on the end, but no dents. Once I post them I'll take some pics. Thanks

I was trying to decide on this same thing about a year ago, when I had my motor apart for a rebuild. I ended up going with .030, and have had no problems at all running 92 octane fuel. The main reason I opted for 30 instead of 25 was that my cylinders are ported and with the raised exaust port, naturally have less compression. This was one of the best mods I did. my brother also has a .030 milled head, on stock cylinders with fatties, and he absolutely wastes my friend's shee that has a stock head and toomey t6's, and the t6's are supposed to make more power than the fatties do (?)... As far as compression goes, I don't know exactly, but id say both 25 and 30 would put you in the 155-165 range at your elevation. Id go with 30.

Looking for a set of early powercore silencers, the kind with the larger stinger tube and flat end. My bro has some and i seem to like them more than my powercore 2's. I'm willing to buy or trade my pc 2's, that are in decent condition but not perfect. Condition of the silencers doesn't really matter to me. Thanks

I am in bad need of a RIGHT side (Sorry, title says LEFT!) cylinder(clutch side), preferably on stock bore and port. I would buy a set of 2 if I had to though. if anyone has anything they would like to part with let me know Thanks