mybanshees2fast4u

ok i didnt follow the directions exactly on the posts for making a doing a leak test but i wanna make i should still okay. It didnt leak down exactly 1 lbs per minute. I pumped it six and the first or 1.5 lbs leaked down a little a little quicker than that, how much it didn is hard to say, but by the end of the of the six minutes i had about to 2, 2.25 lbs is in the motor. I sprayed the gasket areas with soapy water and the rubber freeze plugs in the intake showed a little leak. Where i screwed the fitting in for the pump leaked a little and so did the the screw that tightens the plug up also leaked a little. I didnt have the stator cover removed or the clutch cover, but i just rebuilt so the whole motor with new seals so i am assuming those are okay. I just wanted to make at if i still had pressure in the motor after the 6 minutes that i would be ok. Please lemme know i am about to start it up for the first time with the fresh motor and dont wanna repeat the damage that intial blew the motor up.

I was looking for a non-synthetic oil to break my new top end in with and this what the guy at the shop sold me. Ever heard of KawaChem 2-stroke racing oil? What mixture should i run with this oil for break-in?

Same scenrio with my $500 banshee, wouldnt run on both cylinders. Replaced every electrical compenent including the flywheel (thought the magnetics were whacked and werent sending a good signal). Pulled the head cylinders and pistons looked str8 but didnt have enough compression. Would pop start or kick start with a fuck load of kicks. It leaned out two weeks later melted a piston. New Wisecos and are in and waiting for replacement intakes to start it up. Definetly compression.

I bought my 99 shee for $500 and it was a basket case. For a while it would pop start and run but was low on compression and was never running the way it should be (1st time banshee owner so i really have no idea how it should run) and it melted a piston. I just swapped my cracked case for a good one, installed all new seals and new wiseco forged pistons into the fresh bored cylinders and am preparing to start it up for the first time and i dotn want it to melt the pistons again when it starts up. I guessed that the one cylinder melted a piston by the exhaust port because of an air leak in the intake manifold. There is a crack running around the back side of the port were the boost bottle feeds in to the intake but it doesnt appear to have gone all the way through. I have heard that boost bottles will cause this but will it create pin hole leaks that wounldnt be visible? I have ordered a used set of intakes and stock crossover tube off of ebay that supposedly came off a running bike. I believe it would be wise to do a crankcase leakdown test but does anyone have an idea where to buy the rubber plugs to seal it up? Also I live in MD which is at sea-level (temp now is between high 50's and low 70's) and i wanna make sure the jets arent to lean for the new motor and break in running 16:1 yamalube. My mods include proflow airbox adapter for a uni-filter, FMF fatty gold series with FMF silencers (freshly repacked), the air filter lid has had a large section that covers the majority of it cut out and replaced with mesh. It has 260 mains in it now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. PS- the pistons are .030 or 64.75mm

i have found plenty of info on how to do the crancase leakdown test, but were can i buy the plugs and the other fitings and what not to perform the test?

sure just send me the $300 to set it up

i am in maryland, so i think it is sea level

I have my banshee motor apart because a piston came apart and chewed up that side of the head. How should i clean up all the cuts and chips from the pieces beating around, i was thinking scotchbrite it on a die grinder and than glass bead the port to smooth it back out. I figure while its apart i might as well mill it but how much and still run pump gas? I was thinking take about .020 off. I have a adjust. stator so i was gonna also adavnce the timing +4. Can i take .020 off and run +4 on pump gas, and will have to use a yamaha genuine head gasket on the milled head or can i still run the one outta the wiseco kit.

it wont let me post my paint diagram that took me fucking 1/2 to draw so if u r willing i can e-mail it to u or try to get some digital photos but they dont come out to good

I ordered a K&S oil seal kit for the bottom end and i am working on getting it back to gether but what way does the left side crank seal go in? My cylmer manual says that the seal should have a green mark the side that goes away from the crank and the side with the manufacturing marks goes against the crank. Unfortunately, there is manufac. marks on both sides and no green mark. Although the seal looks like it can go in either way i wanna be positive because that left side leaned out and melted a piston, so i dotn wanna wreck my brand new top end. It must go in a specific way because the manual wouldnt explain the green side out if the sides didnt matter right? Please Help i hope my crude diagram helps explain what i am talking about, ANY HELP IS GOOD HELP THANK YOU!

I bought my shee from NJ and i live in maryland. I have the motor apart because it melted a piston (i think an air leak caused it to lean out but i am not sure). Maryland is at sea level, i am running full fmf system, a uni filter and proform plate, 24:1 premix with yamalube, and the main jets that are in it now are 260. I think i need to set up but to what size. It is about 65-80 degreess now and summer is coming up and it will get up to 100 somedays. Since the main jets are different than stock i m guessing it has been jetted b4, so should i just buy individual jets or what kit should i buy. Please Help

My 99 shee just melted a piston on the left side of the engine. I am running a stock shee motor, with fmf fatty pipes and silencers, a uni air filter, and adjjustable timing plate that is still set at 0. I was runnig 32:1 premix with yamalube, and i am in baltimore maryland area. I was wondering what jets should i be running. I think there is 270s in them now but i will have to double check. I just dont wanna replace my brand new top end because of some over site in the jets. Thanx

My 99 has a piece since the day i got it and probelms keep mounting up. First was aware the trans case was cracked so i bought a used RZ case assuming it will work. However i was riding my banshee for a couple hours and pop it blew up. The right side cylinder burned a hole in the piston right at the edge where the exhaust port is. So it is now time to replace the case and the top end, no probelm but why did it melt that piston and the other looks fine. The machinist at the shop I dropped the jugs to be bored at said that it leaned out and cause the motor to burn the piston. What could have caused to lean out? I assume the jets are right because the bike use to run fien with out burning pistons up before this happened the other day. Also do i have to use yamaha gaskets or can i use the cheaper kits that come with pistons. It is a stock motor and i may mill the head while i have it apart so i just wanna know if aftermarkert top end gaskets and aftermarket case seals seem to work okay?

I just got 99 shee running and the thing blew the top end. When i got the bike it had a crack in the side cover that ran from the kick starter around the top half of the case. It would spew out transmission oil so i obtained a used set of cases from a rz streetbike, (I hope they will work). So now that the tope end needs to be replaced it is time to do the whole thing. My question is save from pistons, all the crankcase seals and the top end gaskets, what else do i need to do while the cases are split. Also what could have possible carcked the side cover and top of the case, should i be looking for something gone wrong in the kickstarter assembly? Should i replace any bearings in the bottom end. Any cheap mods i should do while its apart? Any advice would be great.

I finally have gotten to ride my 99 shee taht i have had a ton of probelms with. I replaced the coil, flywheel, the stator and cdi were installed a few months ago, and the carbs have the tors removed and have been gone through and are clean. The probelm is that i have to kick the shit outta of it to get it start, it has got be kicked quickly but it will eventually start. I can pop start it with out any trouble. Even if i have been riding it and it stalls it doesnt want to start like it should, it requires a ton of kicks. In my clymer manual it says to put your finger over the spark plug hole and kick it and if it pushes your finger off it should have enough compression to start which it does do that. I recently had the top end apart and it all appeared fine so i just resealed and called it a day. I want to know what numbers the compression should be if i check it with a gauge on a stock banshee. If i mill the head to raise compression will it give a temporary patch to get it start? I dont have the money to replace the top end quite yet so any help would be great.