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BigRed350x

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Everything posted by BigRed350x

  1. 160psi static is above the general lever where folks start suggesting race gas. 150-155psi is usually a good base-line mark for where you need to start switching over or running a 50/50 mix of race-gas and pump gas. Add timing advace in with that and you definitely need to run a higher octane fuel. If you are at 160 and have any timing advace I would suggest running a 50/50mix of race-gas and pump-gas. As for the bogging and poor performance, its probably just a jetting issue. I would start by replacing your gas with stuff YOU know is good and mixed correctly. Stator and coil problems can also present themselves as a bog. intermittent spark or poor spark quality will make it run like crap. - Jared
  2. Depends on what kind you get. If you get the spring-loaded straight-cut gears, they come with the bushing and idler driven gear on the back. Other kits are just the PTO gear and the basket gear and you have to do the assembly. - Jared
  3. Do it right and split the cases to replace that seal, dont pound it in. Did you check the oring on the neutral switch cover?
  4. No problemo. I skip over stuff all the time. Im usually in a hurry to check out pics and skip over half the text. LoL. N2o is a great guy to deal with, i wouldnt hesitate to do another deal with him.
  5. 22-11-8 9-paddle or 10-paddle, or 21-12-8 9-paddle extreme.
  6. I would use a site sponsor for the porting. Give kevin at HJR a call. He can get all the parts you need and does top-notch work.
  7. He listed the crank size required at the top of his listing. "76 (will work at 77) stroke 91 bore"
  8. Are both shift fork rod plugs in the case on the sprocket side? Did you put a NEW o-ring on the neutral switch cover? Did you split the cases and install the new seal correctly, or did you just pound it into the cases without splitting them, like a champ? - Jared
  9. Yes, the white collar holds it from moving past the idler gear once the side cover is installed. Your idler gear should sit pretty snug on the shaft. if it does wobble quite a bit, replace it. they are only like $50 or $60. - Jared
  10. I'm running one of those and haven't had any problems with it. Works good. Cascade sells them, you have to call them, they aren't listed on their site. I got mine from White-Knuckle Racing. - Jared
  11. If you do end up parting it out, I would like the fiberglass hood. Thanks, - Jared
  12. Holy Shit Balls. That is an insane deal!
  13. Pics or GTFO.
  14. Forgot the Vitos Mono-Block Cylinders Old RZ350 cylinders
  15. Cheetah Cub small-block twister cylinders big-block twister cylinders cheetah cylinders T-Rex Cylinders LA Sleeve Cylinders Stock Cylinders
  16. I'll take the tie rods. PM me a price.
  17. That's probably what the shop at trinity is like every day.
  18. Pics? If I want to call Dan and get details, who's name do I reference for this build?
  19. Why do you have 2-stroke pipes on your streetbike conversion?
  20. What do you mean they don't do pv? Here's my old 10mil big block twister. It used powervalves out of a skidoo 800.
  21. If your stator wire was rubbing against the flywheel, how did you ohm it out? Did you check it with the flywheel on or off?
  22. What does it read when you ohm it out across the coils?
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