BigRed350x

If your building a good high-quality engine, you would be concerned with a few thousandths difference in your dome profile. I've seen as much as .005 and .006" of difference between doing it the incorrect way and the correct way. Any tard-monkey can slap one of these engines together. Its the little stuff that separates the good running ones from the average joe's engine.

I'd go with a 10mil cub or DM before I'd do the cheetah.

Where did you get the 41 carbs? Thanks - Jared

Duh.

Its about 2hrs from vegas.

I will be coming to Dumont for a week. My vacation time starts March 16 and ends the 25th. I will be heading down with some friends. I'll have my drag bike, one of my dune bikes, and my 2-seat sand rail. I've got some friends bringing some 450's and some banshees. Hope to see some of you west-coast folks out there. I know jmarquez and his friends are going to come. - Jared WE ARE GOING TO BE AT DUMONT MARCH 22 / 23 to MARCH 26 / 27. My vacation dates listed above have changed. Just wanted folks to know.

This is not true. The method outlined by redline racing is the correct way to do it. Your readings could be off by as much as .005" by doing it through the spark plug hole. Try it both ways and see for yourself. I used to think the spark plug hole trick was ok, until I was taught the correct way to do it. Then I compared my readings from the two methods and the spark plug hole reading is very inaccurate. Tim @ Titan Racing will tell you to do it the same way. Remove the head, place solder across the top of the piston in the center of the bore, parallel to the wrist-pin. Install & torq head down and bump it back and forth at the top of the bore by hand, then remove the head and measure your solder. - Jared

I've had both stockers and billet impellers and never noticed any difference between them. I'd get an OEM replacement or a billet impeller, whichever one you can get more easily. - Jared

I've had both stockers and billet impellers and never noticed any difference between them. I'd get an OEM replacement or a billet impeller, whichever one you can get more easily. - Jared

If its brand new to you, do a complete teardown and reassembly. See what its really got for guts. Ive had way to many surprises on new to me engines. Take a weekend and tear it down, clean it, and reassemble yourself. Sounds like you have a good start. Jared

Check out the link in my signature, i have a bottom end assembly walkthrough with lots of pics. the bottom end on these is stupid simple. I would split the cases and clean the crank bearings properly, or just replace them. Maxload bearings are only 50 ea. Cheap insurance for peace of mind with your crank, especially on a new build. Jared

EPIC.

LOL @ this thread. Best entertainment in a while. I am going to cook another bowl of popcorn...

1. lay carb on floor 2. find large sledge hammer 3. smash carbs 4. dig needle out of pile of carb 5. identify needle 6. glue carb back together. been doing it like this for years. hasn't failed me yet.

I see golden arches in your future.

Great guy to deal with! No worries here! Bump!

Its a dodge... it needs the mud in the turbo to run right. Poor guy, no wonder he's selling.

Not knowing what you're doing will do that to an engine...

Maybe you should post more than 2 posts before you jump in the for sale section and try and sell stuff. I doubt you're going to have much luck on here since you're a brand new member and posting in the for sale section. - Jared

That and a bad coil. Did you check the resistance across each of the legs of your stator? Like wacko said... STOP jacking with the damn thing until you have the necessary tools to check and correct the problems correctly. Get the clymer manual and see what you are supposed to be doing if you don't know. - Jared

Kevin @ HJR can port it for whatever you want to do. Great guy and top-notch work. You wouldn't be disappointed. - Jared

n20, the translation when he posts is a bit different. In his other thread he was referring to a fouled plug as damaged. I honestly think you could save the time and effort and order yourself up a nice rotor from JDS Customs and be done with it. Get a nice smooth straight product and be ready to go. - Jared

Yeah, don't polish the intake. Just clean them up with the normal carbide burs that most people use for this sorta thing. They will leave a roughed up surface. You don't want to sand things down or polish the intake side. Do that on the exhaust. Exhaust port polished up is good thing.

First, change the size of your sig pic man, people have to scroll through twice as many pages of stuff because your pic takes up half a page. Next... give kevin @ HJR a call. For $1k he can hook you up with some awesome mods. Great guy to deal with and the fastest turnaround time of any builder out there. You wouldn't be disappointed. - Jared

Try it and see....