BigRed350x

Give kevin @ HJR a call. He makes an awesome dune port! I've had a couple of engines that he did the port work on, and all are top-notch. I wouldn't hesitate to send him any of my top ends for a dune port. He can also get you any of the other parts you might need to build the perfect duner. Kevin has some of the fastest turn-around time in the business... - Jared

Yes, you are still rich. Your plugs should look like the one above no matter how long you've been riding.

Who set the carbs up? what size dumps, mains, what needles, what kinda powerjets are those? can you post up some better pics of the alky carbs? Thanks - Jared

What's your current jetting? main jet, needle number, needle clip position, pilot jet, air screw turns out and elevation/temp?

Looks rich to me. Your plugs should look like coffee with creamer in it. Nice chocolate color, not black.

No problem man.

Looks good!

You'd probably be better off sending them to someone to get done unless you do some research and see what all is involved in the conversion. You can screw up a set of carbs pretty quick if done incorrectly. Especially the keihins where the dump-tube is non-removable. depending on your altitude, .120" on the dump tube is pretty big. Here's a good starting point on keihin carbs.... drill dump tube anywhere from .116 to .120" depending on engine setup, elevation, etc etc get a set of EG series needles. EGL is what I like, but I'm at a lot higher elevation than most folks, so my setups are usually different. get yourself a big-ass pilot jet. 65-72 on most keihins is a good starting point, then work down. I prefer my powerjets to open just above 1/2 throttle. I drill out the dump-tube on the power-jet and run custom cut needles in the power-jets. get billet bowls! Just get yourself a set of carbs and start off small on the drilling stuff out, you can always re-drill bigger if you need it. play with some different power-jets and power-jet options and see what you like. Its a learning curve for sure. I'm no pro. I blew up my fair share of top ends figuring it all out on my own. I didn't have anyone around me to show me what to do or give me any advice. I would do some more reading around the net and get as much info as you can before you start. - Jared

On the override the gears are changed out on the trans shaft and machined differently. The drum is modified. The concept behind it is that you can up-shift @ wide-open-throttle. Its smooth as butter if done right. certain gears have a rounded back-cut that when the next higher gear is selected the rotational speed of the main gear shaft & other gears slaps the previous gear out of play. You'd have to see one to get what I'm saying, but once you do see one its easy to understand. Down-side is that you can't back-load it. If you let the tires drive the trans you will bend forks and possibly chew up gears. You have to do it quite a bit or really not know how to ride an override though. In short, the duneable is just an override with springs on the shift fork shafts to assist the forks with back-loading. Its more forgiving, but if you back-load it a lot, it will eventually give out just like an override. (ask bonbon here on HQ how his duneable did... lol) The life-span of both is directly related to how you treat them. Abuse them and they won't last long. Take good care of them, they will last a long time. Locogato has a duneable that's been in for years without issues. An end-cut transmission is just taking a stock trans and side-cuting 3 of the 6 dogs off the sides of the gears. It gives the transmission more rotational time to engage with the next gear. I consider end-cutting or side-cutting a basic mod that should be done to any banshee transmission. This can also be taken a little farther and mill and engagement face of the dogs to be perfectly flat and smooth. It helps the gears stay engaged if done correctly. On the shift-star you round the high-points of the star down to a nice smooth curve instead of a peaky mountain top. It just helps add to the ease of shifting.

n2o doesn't have feelings. lol

I've been running methanol for years and have never once had oil like that. The sweat you are referring to is condensation and forms on the outside of the engine. The amount of water or coolant required to turn the oil that color is a LOT more than you should ever see from condensation. - Jared

Sounds like you have the forks in the wrong place. Check out the link in my signature and compare your bottom end to the one in my pics and see if you have things in there correctly... That should be a good start. There are 2 of one type of fork and 1 of the other. I have a set of cases split on my bench right now so if you need specific pics of anything just let me know and I can snap whatever pics you need. Should be a simple fix, just move your forks around to the correct position. - Jared

Post a picture of your plugs. Are they grey or black and wet when you remove them? If they are grey its probably lean or detonation and could be resolved with proper jetting and engine setup, but you are causing damage every time you run it like that. If they are black and wet, its just rich and you could re-jet to resolve the problem. - Jared

You've got coolant or water in your oil. Probably a coolant-tube o-ring or water pump seal. Check your coolant level & see where its at. - Jared

The only ones you will get to fit perfect will be hand-coned pipes from matt, and you'd have to have your bike there at his shop and pay a real pretty penny for them. He generally won't do the hand-coned pipes unless its some kind of custom frame or special engine setup. He will try and sell you on a set of stamped pipes. I'd at least give him a call and see what he has to say about the fitment issues you're having. I know the set of big-bore shearer pipes on my buddies 10mil trex fit like crap too. its not just you. - jared

If I had the choice between the two I would do a 10mil small-block twister.

Depends on which generation of the small-block you have. There have been 4 generations of the small-block since it was released. You CAN find them with YZ250 reed cage intakes. Either way you go, they are an awesome cylinder.

They are off of a skiddo summit 800. The valve itself had to be machine down to match the shape and profile of the exhaust port.

No problem man! Free Bump! - Jared

Here ya go... - Jared

It is a billet cylinder block made by Twister. Bore sizes range from 68 to 78mm. It uses an iron sleeve. They have tripple ports and boost ports. They come with what most would consider a dune port, and have plenty of material left to be hogged out and custom ported however you want. They have a much larger coolant capacity than competitors cylinders, and better coolant flow characteristics. They have changeable intake runners and exhaust flanges. You can run stock banshee reeds or YZ250 reeds, and small-bore or big-bore pipes. They are a great cylinder and I would recommend them to anyone. Here's a Twister Big-Block for comparison...

LOL!

I can't believe you haven't sold your stuff yet. Your price for this stuff is awesome. If I had that much $ in the banshee fund right now, I would definitely pick your stuff up. Have you posted this up over on planetsand? - Jared

WTF is a banchee?

He says in his first post... "10mill cub cylinder with pistons, domes, head, wrist pin bearings and forged 115 rod crank with tz"