BigRed350x

Its all the same stuff, just different block. I would be more than happy to help you with any questions with the assembly. - Jared

No paypal, no sale. Confirmed address & good seller/buyer history is a must. No offense, but I wouldn't do a deal with a new member who doesn't want to use paypal. That's an automatic no-go.

www.photobucket.com upload pics there, then use the tag and copy/paste it here.

Looking for a stock transmission. Both Gear sets, drum, rods, forks. I have paypal ready. Post up pics and price please. - Jared

Go with the Twister...

Is that a 10, 12, or 14? Just noticed the mattoon cases & figured its got to be one of the bigger strokes. Nice lookin' setup! - Jared

Not at all. The small-block comes machined with port timings that most would consider a nice dune port. They have a LOT of material left in them, so you can send them off and get them hogged out with a huge drag port if you wanted to. They make very smooth power bottom to top.

Its a billet cylinder block, uses the stock banshee intakes and reeds (but has changeable intake runners on the cylinders so you can run YZ250 reeds or stock banshee reeds and also has changeable exhaust flanges so you can run small-bore or big bore exhaust.) They use iron sleeves and range in size from 68mm to 75mm. I've seen them as large as 78mm but the owner had them re-sleeved with bigger bore sleeves. The Twister Small-Block has tripple exhaust ports and boost ports on the intake side. They have a larger coolant capacity than the CP Industries cylinders, and a much stronger head-stud layout. Send jmarquez.702 a PM and ask him about how he likes the small-block Twister he got from me if you want a review from someone else. I like the workmanship and the quality of the Twister cylinders a lot more than the CP Industries cylinders like the cub, serval, wampus, etc. - Jared

Give Louie @ Twister a call. The small-block is $1500 and comes with the cylinders, head, domes, o-ring kit and piston kit. You can get them from 68mm to 75mm on the small-block. I've seen a couple where people changed the sleeve and were able to bore them out to 78mm.

I've put the cushions in both ways, never seemed to make any difference either way. The stock backing plate is a little bit heavier, but you have to drill counter-sink holes in it so the heads on the bolts your using don't stick up higher than the backing plate. If you're not building some crazy huge beast of a motor, you'd probably be fine to use the backing plate that came with your billet basket.

Small-Block Twister. Everyone and their brother has a cub or a serval. Spend the extra $ and build something different.

Switch over to small-bore pipes on that engine and you will like it even more.

4mil small-block twister. send jmarquez.702 a PM and ask him about the 4mil small-block i built for him... he's puttin a hurtin on the servals in his area with his new twister.

Just so you guys know... Shearer pipes only come nickel plated. Not chromed. If you have a chrome set, someone besides shearer did the chrome.

No. We generally crap all over everything here.

www.cascadeinnovations.net -they have some very nice chrome stuff, and chrome rear sprockets, etc. Chariot performance has some awesome parts that have a nice look. JDS Customs for rotors and grills vegasjeff for seat covers.

Hate to tell ya, but the 2into1 setup detracts from the value of the bike, since anyone interested in good performance yanks that junk off and we'd have the cost of putting a good set of carbs and intakes on the bike. 2 into 1 Fail.

I'd be willing to bet that some bansheehq members would probably have those parts laying around and would give them to you cheap. Hell, I've got stock tie rods and shocks laying around in a couple places in my garage. You pay for the shipping and I'll send them to ya. PM me your shipping address and I'll get a tie rod and front shocks sent out to ya @ the end of the week when I get home from work. Do you need the tie rod or the tie rod ends or the whole thing? - Jared

Hey man, I'll come to your place and pay ya cash in person for the cases. Maybe some of the other goodies. Let me know, you have my number. You wouldn't have to mess with any shipping. - Jared

Winning bid: US $30,624.74

LOL add weights to the front of the frame.

I would get rid of the trinity head. That logo on your banshee will be like a beacon light for the banshee deamons. Call up kevin @ HJR and get a cool head or noss style head. He will get you taken care of.

With the huge stretch out front you don't need to go too crazy on the swinger. Keep it as short as you can to keep your weight over the rear end and keep as much traction as you can. If your shooting a really long hill, you might not want that much paddle. It will bog you down up on the big end. 11's or 12's are adaquate for most 10mil setups on a big hill. If its a short hill and you want to jump out in front real quick, the 14's would be good. The +10 is probably a good place to start on the swingarm IMO. I would do a 22x11x8 12 paddle extreme instead of the 14-paddles though. Those are generally a pretty good tire for 10mil cubs on the hill. - Jared

Just yank your cylinders and send them to Kevin @ HJR. He can get them ported, bored, honed, and new top end kit for you and ship them back to ya pretty fast. Great guy to deal with and he does top-notch work. It won't hurt you to have your bike torn apart for a couple weeks, or however long it takes.... Its not the end of the world. Get the work done by someone who does good work and you won't mind the down-time. Plus, you'd be pissed when you blow the $ on some big bore kit and someone kicks your ass with stock cylinders with a cheaper port job. Have you looked into any other cylinder options? Twister cylinders, Cub Cylinders, Serval Cylinders... There's better options out there than the Athena kit. - Jared