BigRed350x

Why not send your shock to MattSCSS and have him rebuild/revalve it for the new swinger? You can get Eibach springs for those shocks at a reasonable price, or get it through Matt. He could hook you up cheaper than buying a new shock. Just a thought. - Jared

Actually, yes you can. Call Skat-Trak. Last time I checked with them it was about $7/paddle for repairs. - Jared

Because you fail at life?

Good luck with that...

There's one for sale over on planetsand right now too. Tim did that one...

No problem

Where you from in colorado? We go out to KP quite a bit, if you're in northern colorado you can jump in with us next time we go... - Jared

I sold an entire engine with nice dune ported cylinders, cool head, billet impeller, billet basket, trans, crank, timing plate, etc for $1k. You will have a tough time selling @ your listed price.

Get one, you won't be disappointed. I've had one in an engine I built for over a year now and the guy rides every weekend. Hasn't had any issues with it.

Tim @ Titan Racing cuts a nice override as well. I would have him cut me one before I'd have WCR do any work to my transmission.

good spot to get paddles from.

Pretty sure this is why all of these chemical companies tell you to only use them in well ventilated areas & why they provide MSDS sheets for their products. Whenever I am using carb cleaner, brake cleaner, anything like that I have a large exhaust fan running to pull the fumes away, as well as a large fresh-air intake for my shop that forces fresh-air into the shop. Also, any good welder will grind/clean the surface they are working on before welding on it. If you follow the precautions outlined in your MSDS sheets and have adaqueate ventilation and use good practices, things like this wouldn't be as much of an issue as they are. Slow down and take the time to read some of those lables and check out the MSDS sheets for the stuff you use every day and you could avoid a lot of things like this happening in the first place. - Jared

If you follow the correct torq sequence for all of the nuts in question, you won't need electrical tape or loctite or any of that. (No offense to wacko) Check your clymer manual and get yourself a good big-ass torq wrench. Torq the first big nut up against the sprocket hub, then torq the second nut against the first, then reverse torq the first nut backwards against the second. That will lock the two against eachother. On the hub nuts you just need a big-ass torq wrench, or an impact gun. The impact has worked well for me in the past on the hub-nuts. check out your clymer manual, all the torq specs are in there. - Jared

Who ported it? Has the 3rd ridge in the intakes been removed or is it still there?

Kevin is the man! That's awesome! Congrats on an awesome dune port man, you will love kevin's work.

Same exact tires I run on my short sand car. Great paddles.

Got a trans, thanks everyone.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=147323

Good engine, ready to run. Awesome duner!

No thanks, just interested in engine kit. We don't have anywhere at all around here to use a chassis like that.

How much for just the engine kit, without the chassis?

Send it off to Kevin @ HJR. Give him a call and discuss what you want to do with it, and he will hook you up. - Jared

FAIL. lol

Yes. LOL

PM's returned...