BigRed350x

Check your coolant level in the radiator. Just because you're coolant bottle doesn't have any fluid in it doesn't mean you can't be low. Toss the stupid coolant bottle in the trash when you are done, they don't do jack shit....

I count 8 different suspension mounting points held in single shear, and suspension load members carrying a point load to frame members that are in tension. EEeek! I know they race these frames in the baja & all that, but there are some huge structural no-no's on that frame. I wouldn't ride it, even knowing its held up fine through quite a few baja races. Structural Dynamics classes in college ruined a lot of fun stuff for me. lol

Why ask the question? Look around and you will see who the big-name cylinders are out there. CP Industries, Superior Sleeve, Twister. I believe RDZ makes a billet block as well as vitos.

Get someone who knows what they are doing to re-program the curves trinity did and you will probably be even happier!

I remember like 6 years ago when I went out on easter weekend we got there wednesday morning and it was like a ghost town, by friday night there was zero parking and a line of headlights going out to the horizon of people trying to get in there for the holiday weekend. - Jared

I've had to do it that way to a couple of them. Just don't mess with the back-cut for the case stud locator rings. As long as you don't mess those up the cylinders will still sit on the cases straight. - Jared

Yo James! You can do two different things... Take a drill bit and just open up the cylinder a little bit (the bare minimum to fit the cylinder) or run down to your local hardware shop and get some MAP-gas and a torch head. The MAP gas will burn hot enough that it will soften the loctite shit the factory uses to set the studs. Be careful though, because it will also get hot enough to melt the aluminum around the stud, so make sure you concentrate on the stud itself. On my cheetah I removed the shorter factory studs and put in longer ones that would reach the cheetah deck. Drilling the cylinder would be the easier way to go, just be careful to keep your hole true and just take out the minimum to fit the stud extender. - Jared

OOF's are usually louder and can pose some mounting problems but they offer better performance and they make the bike easier to work on. - Jared

Looks like a magnum basket to me. You can make your own clutch holding tool by welding some steels and some fibers together. Don't do the steel idler gear bushing as stated above. The stock bronze bushing is a softer metal than the shaft it rides on. If you put a steel one on there the two metals being equal hardness you will wear the shaft instead of the gear bushing. Just order an OEM replacement idler gear they are only like $50-60.

Front brakes are a PITA. Get a vacuum bleeder of some sort & it makes it a little big easier. - Jared

Did you check your stator and pickup coil resistance? Main coil resistance? Cross-over tube installed? Double-check your jetting and clean the carbs again. Try new plugs? - Jared

33 PWK would be my choice. Small enough carb that you still have the good throttle response and big enough to support a bigger motor.

Here's an idea... people don't want to pay for shit they haven't seen. POST PICS! Photobucket is an amazing thing...

POST PICS

Bump!

POST PICS OR GTFO

You said above that you don't have to losen the nut to swap cases. The PTO gear sits inside the seal, which is all held on by the nut. If you are swapping cases, you should replace the seal, which would involve removing the nut to remove the water pump gear and remove the PTO gear and key, then the seal. In your first reply you say no you don't have to remove the nut to swap cases, which is WRONG. Duh.

Once your compress the cases on the seals you leave a groove in the seal where the cases meet. An entire seal kit is like $40. Anyone who splits cases on a regular basis should have a couple laying around. This isn't a sport for a cheap-ass. Do the shit right and use the right tools and have the right parts on-hand and ready or leave it to someone who does it the right way. - Jared

100psi with a stock head at your elevation is pretty good. I'm at 7200ft and with a stock head and ported cylinders I was only getting 90psi. lol Run it!

Get yourselves a compression tester! You need to figure out your dynamic compression ratio. If your static compression is below 155psi and you are at +4 or below on your timing its generally pretty safe to run high octane pump gas like 91 or 93, whatever you can get where you are. That close to sea level I would go with a 21 or 22cc dome and start with your timing at +4 or lower.

POST PICS OR GTFO. This text me for pics shit needs to stop. Photobucket. Use It.

Jesus! Email me the pics and I will post them for you. How do people not know how to run a computer these days?? I don't get it. [email protected]

Sounds like a case venting issue or you're pushing pressure into the transmission area from a bad crank seal or bad case seal. I would NOT just pop a new seal in there. Do the job right and split the cases and check all your seals. Don't hack-job the shit do it right.

WRONG! Don't re-use old case seals. Horrible idea!

OMG don't do what these guys above said. If you are swapping cases you need to replace the crank seals, which requires the removal of the PTO gear and the nut you are talking about. Don't re-use the old case seal. You can put a piece of copper between the two drive gears to bind them in place and use the transmission/chain/rear end to hold everything in place. You can also do what the clymer manual describes and use a counter-set socket on the flywheel side of the crank and just use the crank itself to hold itself in place. As a last resort you could run down to a tire shop and ask them to use one of their impacts to bust the nut loose for you.