BigRed350x

Sounds good guys. Ill try and make it up there this summer and we can run the hill and get some new videos. Should be fun... Ive got a new hillshooter i just finished up. Jared

I assume you're talking about the hansen performance guys, right? Hate to break it to them, but their stuff is not that fast. Last time we were up there we had a 350lb rider on a 4mil stock cylinder with a drag port and shearer pipes running side by side with their "fast" stuff. I've got video after video to prove it. A good 10mil would blow them out of the park. - Jared http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii14/WyoBanshee/St%20Anthony%20Sand%20Dunes/?action=view&current=MOV00026.mp4 http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii14/WyoBanshee/St%20Anthony%20Sand%20Dunes/?action=view&current=MOV00027.mp4 http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii14/WyoBanshee/St%20Anthony%20Sand%20Dunes/?action=view&current=MOV00052.mp4 http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii14/WyoBanshee/St%20Anthony%20Sand%20Dunes/?action=view&current=MOV00070.mp4 http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii14/WyoBanshee/St%20Anthony%20Sand%20Dunes/?action=view&current=MOV00072.mp4

Post count doesn't really mean much. It just means some of us are post whores. LOL! I've used RTV for years and years and never had a single problem. If you use the right stuff (says right on the label if it is gas/oil resistant or not) and let it set up for the proper amount of time and use it on clean cases it works fine. I've got bikes I've built using RTV that are still out on the dunes running great today. IMO the prep-work is just as important as the product you use. Clean cases are a must with any sealer. Right now I'm using threebond 1211 because I got a killer deal on a case of it, but I've used RTV with no problems, regardless of what cam and his post count say. haha!

Hey man, sent you a PM... I have a trans I'll trade ya for those pipes. Let me know. - Jared

I've never had any issues using the loctite, but I also have the correct tools to remove the bolts when they do have loctite on them. I got a killer deal on a bunch of 1211 here last month so I'm using all that stuff up, once its used up I'll go right back to the red silicone. Its worked fine for me for going on 8 years now. I have a buddy with an engine I built 5 years ago still running it no problem. As long as you give it enough time to cure before exposing it to oil or gas it will work fine. - Jared

It looks kinda like the head my cheetah uses, and tim used DM dome blanks for the domes in mine, but its a little bit larger bore... - Jared

Drain the tank, let it dry out good over-night. Sand down the gasket surface lightly and put some yamabond on both sides of your rubber gasket, install it, then let it sit and let the yamabond dry completely for a day or two. I do it on all my pingels and they don't leak. - Jared

I have a 10mil ported cub and a 4mil cheetah. Is your idea strictly for the cub, or would it work on the cheetah? I'm always up for trying new stuff... - Jared

Spring-loaded basket can't be separated from the gears on that particular basket guys. I will take the spring-loaded basket and gears man, send me your paypal info! Thanks - Jared

Some types are, you just have to read the package...

super-glue that bitch in there.

Cam, he's in the same town as me and hangs out at my shop quite a bit. He has something pretty fun planned. He's basically got free range of all my spare parts bins and already has a very bad-ass motor on the way. - Jared

You are hill-shooting right? I'd start with 15x42 and see if the bike can pull that gearing with those paddles. I'd get a 14 and 15 front sprocket and everything from 40 to 45 rear. With those sprockets you should be able to find some combo in there that will work for you. You running meth? - Jared

I just finished building a 485 cheetah and this is a great price! Someone snag this beast!

Great seller here folks! I've bought and sold a bunch of stuff with james and everything went smooth. On a side note, I will be shipping out a big tote to you monday of this week james. You should be able to fit the engine and maybe the stingers in there for the return, just let me know how much the box for the expansion chambers and the total shipping charge is and I will paypal you for it. Or if you need some $$ up-front to cover the shipping costs just let me know. Text me and let me know how you'd like the cash side of the deal handled or if you'd like to just do it through paypal. Thanks again! - Jared

Man, this is why I hate dyno's. If you like what you have and you enjoy riding it, who gives a crap what it did on the dyno??

I would throw up an ad in the wanted section and see if anyone has a stock cross-over tube they would sell ya or give ya. - Jared

oven cleaner and steel wool. I've removed WAY worse shit than that from pipes with those two items. Spray the over-cleaner on and let it sit and do its job for a bit.

If you can afford it, do the DM. The up-front cost will be more, but it will probably be a lot more fun to ride than the cub.

Hey now, I had regulated returns on both feed lines on my old 10mil cub when I ran a pump...

Those cylinders in that pic look appealing.

whats his budget?

Jesus, I've had a LOT of banshees over the years and built quite a few engines, and I've never had a shift star that didn't just fall off in my hand when I removed the screw.

kevin @ HJR gets my vote! He's ported a few setups for me and they were all awesome and ran great. Top-notch guy and he does some awesome work. - Jared

yes, always weld the stock crank if you have the time and money.