BigRed350x

Weld em in there, they won't back out.

What did you just ask? I have no idea what the question even was... Try again sparky, maybe with some more detail.

I had that problem all the time. Drop a tooth on your rear sprocket, then take the link out and it will reach. Dunno why it happens, just one of those stupid things. You might be better off buying new front, rear, and new chain all at once though. That's what I usually do.

You running a spacer plate or cut domes for the 4mm? You will DEF. need bigger carbs with that setup. Did you get your vitos crank trued and welded? Get bigger carbs, then do the whole jetting thing over again. Did you even do a plug chop to check your jetting, or did you just put soem big jets int here and hope it was right, then try and romp on it?

I got all FUCKED up one night at Walden and was camping about as far as you can get from the dunes. I decided for some reason, only god knows why, that I was going to walk to the sand dunes (since I will NOT ride when I am fucked up) I made it to the middle of some huge sage brush field and passed out. Lost my glasses, got all scratched up, froze my ass off when I woke up at like 4am in the middle of some field, way the hell away from my tent & truck. None of my buddies I was with knew where I was and it took us 3 hours to find my glasses. I don't drink any more, so I don't have to worry about that kinda shit any more. Pepsi is the only thing I really drink now that I am out of college.

Just take a pipe wrench, put it on there, then hammer it a couple times and you should be good to go.

Ditch the T in those lines. Just more crap to run through your frame. I cut both of those vent lines and ran the rear one right down the back of the engine, and between the engine and frame under the bike, and the one up by the water impeller I just ran up, then down into that litle square mount on your verticle frame rail.

Get a clymer manual, or the CD I am going to be putting out later this month. My CD will go through step by step and show how to do every little thing with your banshee, all the way to splitting the cases. Drain your oil, buy a gasket kit first off. drain your coolant by removing your water impeller cover. remove the clutch cover. Remove your pressure plate, remove the old clutch, put in the new one, put everything back together. LOOK HERE: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...tting+the+cases Just scroll down to the clutch part and it's pretty much self explanitory. reverse the process for re-installation. You really need a clymer manual though. I can explain to you how to adjust your clutch once you get it put in, just PM me and i will help you out. - Jared

Trying like crazy to get mine put together and yours finished up and we will come down if it's all done. Rick has his 10mm at K&T and he is going to try and have it done by then. We are trying like crazy to make it down there!

Dude! Take a side-road or something and come hit up Killpecker dunes with me! i will have my new bike up and running by the time you got down here. PM me! I can give you a place to stay, and come ride with you out at the dunes (if there isn't much snow!) When are you planning this trip? I might be able to come down at meet up with you at sand mountain, and bring Too Many Toy's banshee back to him all at the same time. - Jared

I have a degree in computer engineering.

Sounds like a barrel full of monkeys!

We don't have to put up with any of that bullshit in wyoming. We cut the cat out of almost all exhaust systems as soon as we get a vehicle up here. Intake breather illegal. HAHAHAHAHA That's some funny shit.That cop woudl pop the hood of my jeep and shit himself.

Snow doesn't melt around our mountains till june. Must suck to live wherever you are, we ride sleds till late april /a early may most years. Go check out my pics in the images section. just took the two sleds out saturday and had two and a half to three feet of fresh powder.

That won't work. You would only be measuring the resistance of the stator windings itself, that doesn't tell you much about how much power output it will produce. The conversion of Amps to Watts is governed by the equation Watts = Amps x Volts For example 1 amp * 110 volts = 110 watts This is only with the given rating of each item in your circuit. There is no way to tell what the maximum value of your stator will be, you can only take values from the circuit you already have and use 12v AC and the amperage draw from each item (lights, etc) to see how much DRAW it is putting on your stator at that particular moment. Here: http://physics.bu.edu/~duffy/PY106/Electricgenerators.html http://www.opamplabs.com/eirp.htm Keep in mind that this is for DC circuits. The laws are different for AC circuits like that of the banshee. An easier solution would be to ask whoever did your winding for you. They should know. If they can't give you a rough estimate, they shouldn't be winding a stator. Ask them.

Why are you so concerned with your HP numbers? Passion Patriot Racing F.A.S.T. Gorr K&T There are lots of them out there, so a search.

P = VA It's kinda tough to actually measure how much "wattage" your stator is capable of putting out, unless you just load the fucker up real good with lots of shit and see when it fails. You can measure it, but it takes some not-so-common equipment that pretty much no one would have unless they are a huge eletronics nerd. A simple volt/amp meter won't do what you want. There isn't really a way to measure how much it can physically put out, other than to do the math or load it and see when it fails. You can get the voltage output with your volt meter, then get the amperage draw of everything on your circuit and use the equation above to figure out the power required by each item in the circuit at that particular moment, but that won't tell you how much it is capable of putting out.

Yeah, they tend to vibrate lose from time to time if you don't have them torqued a shit-ton. One fix I saw that I might try was to take a small drill bit, tighten both up as much as possible, then drill through the nut, axle and out the other side of the nut and put a cotter pin or something through there. Kinda locks it in place so it can't back out. If you don't feel like drilling through your axle, put some of the non-permanent locktite in there.

You sure it's not your TORS wires? Are there two sets? There are matched plugs for every connector, so you can't put the wrong wire in the wrong place. If it's not for part of the TORS system (black box, carbs, throttle cable) just look around for the plug. Maybe it's one of your stator hookups or something. I can check tomarrow morning when I go out to work on mine and see where the green / yellow stripe wire goes for you and let you know.

It will feel stiff at first when you put it in. Mount up your rims and spin it using them, the extra leverage you get from your tires will make it easier to spin at first. Once you put a ride on them they will losen up and feel normal. Almost all large bearings like you find on the rear axle will feel a little stiff at first. Same thing with most cars that have hub bearings.

I talked to a couple different people and no one had the domes I needed or got back to me over email except Patriot racing. They got back to me like 2 hours after I sent them an email. Awesome service. Just wanted to say thanks to them and recommend them to anyone looking for custom parts. Jeff at F.A.S.T. was quick to respond as well, but didn't have what I needed in stock. Thanks to him for his quick replies as well.

Black pistons means you are rich or running some crappy gas/oil. Overheating is caused by a lean condition or rich in some cases. Check your jetting. A new top end is probably a good idea at this point as well. Get your cylinders bored/honed and put in a new top end. When it gets that hot you risk warping your cylinders. Get it bored to the next size over, put the new top end in right, get some good gas, good synthetic oil (use normal oil for breakin) and check your jetting. Do a plug chop man.

I agree, your cable is probably binding up on something and holding itself open. As for the bike not shutting off, sounds like your compression might be too high for the gas you are using. it is exploding before the plugs even spark, so it's keeping itself running. Hard to tell though. Double check your eletrical connections & stuff. My little red button hasn't worked since i got my bike, I just re-wired my own kill switch into the plastic up by my radiator. Works fine for me.

If the break isn't too severe, you can run it like that without any damage. You risk cracking more though, since you lost the structural integrity of the sleeve as a whole. I've seen them run with some pretty bad breaks and they held up though. It's up to you man. There is an added risk though. If you look on ebay you might be able to find a pretty cheap cylinder and just replace it.

That little grooved piece locks in on your swinger. Your swinger should have a little tab welded on it that the little grooved piece locks the brake plate to. Is that what you are talking about? I just put mine on like 5 min ago. I can go take a pic for you if you need.