BigRed350x

Any time you remove a part from the carb, clean that part thoroughly, then clean the carb both around where the part came from and the main shafts/chambers as well, since you might have dislodged other sand/crap that could fall into other parts of the carb. Clean the exterior of the carb real good, clean the slide tube and the main mixing chamber/tube. Remove the 4 screws holding the bowl on. Clean the bowl out real good, including the choke tube. Unscrew your main jet. spray some cleaner through the jet and make sure nothing is in there. Spray down where you just pulled the main jet from. remove the splash guard. remove the washer below the splash guard. remove your pilot jet and clean in there / the jet. You will need a small screwdriver for this. Punch out the pin holding the float. I just used the tip of my screwdriver and tapped it with my gerber tool and it popped right out. remove the float Remove the litlte valve that sits on the float arm and clean it real good. unscrew the screw that holds the float valve perch. Pull the perch straight out with some pliers and clean in there real good. Go backwards to reassemble.

Yeah I don't know of any way to tell where it is at while it is running. Maybe you could hook up a timing light and use the flywheel somehow, but I doubt it. If you are running a dyna ignition I wouldn't pump the adjustable plate up too high. I know the stock CDI advances the timing, then as the RPM's go up it will retard the timing.

I think some of the noss heads can use stock studs and the cool head needs extended ones. They both do the same thing, and both look alike. I've always used the cool head, never even tried a noss head. No sense is getting rid of something that works fine.

I would go with the noss or cool head. Lot better unit than stock. Stock heads suck.

Describing instructions for taking apart a carb would be a little time consuming. Basically you need to remove the main jet, spray some cleaner down in there, remove the pilot jet, spray some junk down in there, remove the floats, spray all over under their little valve. Just wing it and tear them apart, just put parts in order so when you go to re-assemble you can. I have some old stockers around the shed somewhere, maybe I can make you a little picture walkthrough tomarrow when i get up.

LOL chase you come up with some pretty wild stuff you do in a pinch. I guess if it works, it works. I've fought with them over and over and over again in the past. Any more I just clean the hell out of the threads and put some blue locktite on there then crank them down to spec and never both with them again. Props to you man, you come up with some crazy ideas and some cool ones.

With the dyna you would need the software I think. I don't deal with them so I'm not totally sure. I use the adjustable timing plate that mounts behind the stator. It has index marks you line up with your case halves and its set. Dunno aout the dyna stuff, probably need the software.

My intakes have the cross-over tube built in. You kinda need some sort of crossover tube if you get real technical into the operation of a twin cylinder two stroke, but they will run good with or without one.

I would call some of the big-name builders and get some quotes and information from them first. They can point you in the right direction. F.A.S.T, K&T, Passion, Patriot, there's lots of them out there. I have K&T do all my porting, but I do all my own work other than that. Everything else is cake, but I don't have the time to go through a bunch of cylinders tinkering and trying to make something that works. I let them do it. Call up jeff at F.A.S.T would be my first suggestion. I've ridden with some people who have his play port and its a good running port job. Makes good power all throughout. Get some quotes and go from there, but I wouldlnt let joe-local touch my cylinders. If you don't know what you are doing you can actually LOSE power. - Jared

You don't want to polish your transfers. You want to keep them rough, it will help keep the fuel atomized in the mixture as it travels. The only thing you want polished on the inside of your cylinders is the exhaust. You won't want anything sticking in that area, you want it to flow fast nd clean out of there. Everything else you can leave a rough finish. You need a special 90

Start switching stuff from one cylinder to the other and see if the problem jumps to the other cylinder. I would start with your coil wires. Sounds like you aren't getting good spark on that side. Then swap carbs, then reeds, yadda yadda yadda. Did you do a compression check after you got it back? Did you clean your carbs? Whats your jetting?

Slam a 15cc dome in there and try to kick that thing over a couple times. LOL I run 17's in mine and its a bitch sometimes. Whenever I start it I wish I only had 21cc domes. That would be nice... adjustable domes.

I've given up, you can't catch him.

Sounds about right for the rockies as well. 3-4k for stock engine/chassis shee's. Sometimes I wonder what I could get for mine if I ever sold it. I'm sure I could find a smuck out there somewhere that would pay for it. People see the bling bling chrome shit and go crazy.

That bike looks good. Imagine a crotch rocket with a 10mil cheetah.... Mmmmm Pull up beside an R1 or Busa and they would be like WTF... I wonder how that would pan out?? Would be cool to watch if nothing else.

I can't believe how fast some of these new 4 strokes are with just a few little bolt-on mods. Then you go into the engine with a couple grand and they are right up there with some of the stroker Shee's. Especially when you get these little kids driving them.

Don't do it Lee, don't go to the dark side!

If the person doing your porting knows what they are doing, yes, you will need bigger carbs to take advantage of the increased flow rates going in, through and out of your cylinders. You can get away with stock carbs, but you won't be taking advantage of the new-found power without bigger carbs. This is IF the guy knows what he is doing with banshee cylinders. If he hasn't done much work with banshee cylinders in the past I would save your money and get a big-name builder to do it. You will be a lot happier in the end. Jeff at F.A.S.T is good, K&T does my porting, Patriot, Passion... there's a lot of them out there. Call around before you let Joe-Local go after your cylinders with a dremel.

Transfers and exhuast is where you get the major power gains from. Transfer angles, flow volumes, flow velocities... all that sort of stuff plays a large roll in how your shee will build power as the RPM's go up. If you don't change your transfers but play with your exhaust and intake you're not really getting what you paid for with the templates. Take the time and do the transfers while you have the cylinders off, you will be much happier in the end. Mount up your cylinders and pistons and run a degree wheel and let us know what your port timing is.

NOS is hard to tune for and will eat o-rings on your head like crazy. I'd keep the alky. Yeah, the purging crap is a pain but look at the benefits you get from it...

You will notice absolutely nothing by putting that huge hollow hunk of metal on your bike. Keep the crossover tube. Its cleaner, and you can use the boost bottle for an over-flow tank or something.

Yeah I thought they were pretty dumb when I first saw them, then I ran them and... yep they are pretty dumb.

I will be there for around a week starting 4th of july weekend. Look for my bike out on chokecherry... i will be with a 10mil Trex and a blue stroker VW buggy.

I run 9 paddle extremes on my stroker and like them. I could go 10's though and come out of the hole quite a bit better.

He will need both. The crank he is using has 1. longer rods and 2. longer stroke. You need to run a 795 series piston to accomodate the longer rod, then you need either cut domes OR a spacer plate to accomodate the stroke. The spacer plate gives a lot better top end, since it is moving your port timing up a lot higher, the stroker domes give more bottom end, since they are effectively moving your port timing lower. I run stroker domes in mine and it does good. The spacer plate is good for drag racing. Anything other than that I would stick with domes myself. Dome size depends on if you want to run race gas or not. It depends on your compression. Get a hold of Patriot Racing, they got my domes cut and shipped to my door cheaper than anyone else I talked to. Make sure you have your bore, and deck height before you contact them though. Deck height is the more important number. Hope that helps.