BigRed350x

because they make crap any more. Back when they first came around they were ok, but now they have gotton so big that they have lost touch with the customers. They have a LOT of DIFFERENT people doing DIFFERENT port jobs for the same price. I even heard they have some high school kids working in their machine shop doing some of the porting. Stick with the smaller companies that still have the hands-on approach with their work. You can make a stock banshee do that with a little gearing. LOL

PM me your number and we can go any time this week. I have a whole lot of nothing going on. Actually thinking about going out there tomarrow! (wednesday) I have a LOT of different jets, and some CEL needles if you want to try those... - Jared

I don't know about the price of the 420 shinity kit but I would go with cubs regardless of price. Cubs are way better than stock cylinders, even with a big-bore kit. There were some guys at walden this weekend with the 420 kit and I wasn't turned on at all by it. Stock ported bikes ran right past them.

If you had someone rebuild it for you I would be taking it right back over to them. If you did it yourself you did something wrong. I ride at 8000+ ft and never see compression that low, even with a stock head. LOL

I got money on Ortiz.

Amsoil guy here as well. Never had any problems, burns clean and doesn't leave black shit all over your pistons...

Head over to Planet Sand and do some research, there are some porting guru's over there. I've learned a lot from them.

I have PWK carbs and my jetting is as follows, same riding area as you so... Mains: down to 150 now Pilot: 38 Needle: CGL on top clip 1.5 turns out Pretty much right on for me. Next time you come over to KP let me know and I can meet up with ou and we can get it all jetted for you. You are on the right track though. Try some different needles if they make them for that carb. The pilot circuit actually affects the entire spread, just not as much up on top. Making the pilot a little more lean might help you out up on top. I like to run my low/mid a little lean anyway, makes the burn a tad-bit hotter so your top end is already hot once you get there, if that makes sense. Gives you really good throttle response and if you set it up right it won't hurt you. I can help you out next time you are over at KP and we will get it up and running. What do you think of the banshee compared to your old monster DS?

Make an offer, I don't want these any more. Also have a stock head and some stock carbs sitting around. Make some offers on the head and carbs if anyone wants them.

You wanna get rid of those front tires?

With something that catastrophic I would def. split the cases. Its possible you got some small fragmets in there hiding that could come back to ruin your day again. I've never seen a stock basket shatter per se but I've seen them crack and had arms break off. Go to a billet one... Get some straight-cut gears while you are in there too...

I never ported my cases and mine runs fine. Don't waste your time. Its only needed with the really big engines and aftermarket cylinders like TRex cylinders.

POD filters are better IMO. The air box is just restricting more air flow to your carbs, and looks like ass. If you ride in wet or muddy conditions though you need it. I only ride sand so I just go with the pod filters.

Its just a tesla coil, very very high voltage but basically no current. I've built them in the past and they can hit you like that and it won't do anything. He played it up WAY more than it really was. They will burn you but that's it. I've been hit by a bolt from a bit one (1million+ volts) and it will burn the fuck out of you but won't do much other than that. He's a fake.

PADDLES SOLD! Stock Head and Stock Carbs still for sale!! 20x11x10 Sand Shark Tires on ITP C-Series Rims. Paddles in good condition, about a half-year's ride time on them, then I went to extremes and rippers. Can't use them on my 4mil, too much wheelspin and not for what I like to do. $155 with shipping. New on RMATV they are over $200 not including shipping. :beer:

A dune or play port woudl be best for you. If gorr were still around I would tell you hands down for what you want a Gorr woods port would be best, but he isn't in the states any more. Any of the mild port jobs would be good for you, just DONT get a drag port it would kill you for trails. They are all relaible and dependable, its just up to you who you want to do it.

An 8" rim would be good for you then. The smaller rims are lighter and lighter in the sand is better. If your not jumping you don't need a big heavy-ass rim. The 21" paddle might be a bit tall for you, depending on what mods you have done. I'd stick with the 20" if you are using it for general dune riding. Also, if you don't have a pretty healthy engine I would stick with 8 paddle. Lets you spin a little more, which is what the banshee likes anyway. A Vblade will let you turn and slide better, the straight-cuts let you get up and go faster and will dig harder. The smaller straights will spin more the deeper ones (extremes, rippers) will dig really hard. Here's an example of a drag racing paddle vs. a general duning paddle. The big one is a 25" 14 paddle and smaller one is a 21" 9 paddle. Both are kinda big for just duning... he he he

Well said. I would stay away from K&T unless you are close to his shop and can go there in person. He tends to be a total dick on the phone but is a great guy in person. He is swamped with work year round and most of the time you can't reach him on the phone. Jeff is a good guy I've talked with him on here before about parts and he has good prices & stuff, he would probably be my next step in line if I were going to have a builder do my work.

Yeah a lot of planetsand guys are having trouble burning up RS stators. Maybe I needed an early gen. stator for what I was doing with it. I don't know. I'm back to stock lighting now and don't really ride at night much anyway so its all good.

I'd check ebay before anything else. You can pick up banshee parts from ebay for way cheap. I got a frame off ebay for $76 not too long ago. Brand new frame, no bends no cracks, all the mounts were there, and it was already stripped to bare metal, ready for paint. I'd imagine you can find a stock tranny on ebay for under $200. You could get it rebuilt but it would end up costing about the same as a new one.

VForce 3 Reeds, Cool Head with some smaller domes to bump up compression, Adjustable Timing Plate. I would do that before I got porting. Porting will run you anywhere from 250-600 depending on who does it and what kind of porting. Then you should get bigger carbs to take advantage of the porting. That would put you outside your budget more than likely. I would get the reeds, head, and timing plate, then spend the extra money on some other misc. parts you might want. Head over to www.rockymountainatv.com and browse around. I spend around $1200 with them a year on random crap. Get yoruself a set of rims/tires or something.

I run Red Label on mine!! :beer: I can hold both rims and tires on one arm fully extended. Really light. Nothing like my buddies blue label ultralite haulers. Those are retardedly light.

I just changed my gearing to 13x44 but I run a 22" 9paddle extreme in the rear. I do lots of steep hill climbs and some occasional drag racing. It lets me launch in 2 really hard and get my wheels spinning faster sooner. I'm pretty big though and like the shorter gearing. I don't mind shifting at all. I run around the dunes in 4th and just give it gas when I need it. I'm happy with it. It's just a dune bike so I'm not too concerned with winning. I'm building a bigger drag bike for that. he he

I've always been a fan of K&T. Kim at K&T had the fastest bike at memorial day weekend in utah. He's done all my porting, and I build everything else myself. I'm happy with his port work. I do my own work on everything else. I don't like other peoples hands inside my engine.

Bizzump