BigRed350x

I get anywhere from 60-75 hrs out of mine usually. Just hone it and put new rings or new rings/pistons in and you are good to go. Some of the big boys are munching 2nd gear up around 140hp or so. The 14 and 18mil guys I believe. Once you get that high they should be looking at a billet transmission. Expensive, but shit you are already dumping that much money into the stupid thing, do it right...

Not sure what you are talking about, take a picture of it. Maybe your choke tube? I don't know what a bowl port is...

What all do you have now?

Cubs are the shiznit!

Your clutch won't make your oil turn gray. If it doesn there is something wrong with your clutch. LOL Getting moisture in your oil makes it gray, he probably has a coolant leak. Lots of places don't even sell 94 octane. You can't get 94 anywhere in the rockies. Best you can find around here is 91 to 93. At these elevations though you don't need 94. 91 will do just fine up to 155psi. Above that you need to run 50/50 race gas or 100% race gas. Don't worry about playing with jetting until you get compression up (rebuild top end). Jetting won't make much of a difference if you engine won't run in the first place. The more you run it the worse it is going to get. A top end rebuild kit is only $100-150 for these bikes, that's gaskets, circlips, pistons, bearings, wristpins, rings, everything you need. If you need an overbore it can get a little more pricy, but if you stop running it and tear it down and inspect it chances are you can get away with just a hone. Tear it down and give us some pictures of your cylinder walls and we can let you know. - Jared

First thing I can tell you is to try out the search feature up at the top. Every one of your questions have been addressed here before. But I will try and answer them the quick and dirty method for you here... 100psi is pretty low, depending on your altitude. I'm at 7500ft approx. and that is even low for here, so chances are you need a top end rebuild. When you get your new plugs get BR8ES plugs, with the R. Some bikes need the R some don't, it won't hurt it to run the R plugs if you don't need them, just a safety thing. It can hurt your CDI if you need them and don't run them. 90 octane gas would be fine since your compression is so low. That's not where your starting problem is comming from. Your jets are inside your carbs. Pull off the float bowls and you can see them in there. I made a little walk-through the other day for some new guy on how to clean your carbs, do a search on cleaning carbs and you will probably find it. That will show you what and where your jets are. The little o-ring on your coolant line that runs through your clutch cover is probably bad. Pull your clutch cover off and take a look at the o-rings on the coolant tube. Replace them just to be safe. Someone probably cut and sliced the key switch wires, follow the wires fromt he key all the way back to the CDI and see if they are cut. My key never worked so I ditched it for a switch. Lots easier if you ask me. Front bearings shouldn't have very much play at all, in fact I would say none. Check your front hub bolt and make sure it is torqued good. Pick yourself up a Clymer manual for the banshee, it will cover every question you asked here and gives torque specs & information you need to work on your bike for the first time. They are $30 and one of the best investments you can get for your bike. Get a new top end put in (easy easy stuff, I also made a walkthrough for that on here, do a search for splitting the cases and the top end teardown is in there) then we will worry about your jetting. Let us know what jets you have in there, where you ride (elevation) and we can get you going again. I wouldn't ride it too much until you get these things taken care of or you will just be making things worse farther on down the line. - Jared This will show you how to tear down your top end. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...tting+the+cases On the picture that says "Here's a side shot of the clutch assembly." above it you can see the little o-ring I was talking about.

We are meeting up today to try and get his new 4mil jetted right for him. We will let you all know how it goes and get soem video of it running! - Jared

You guys just need to buff up your arms. :thumb: I ran 6 HD springs in my warrior, my 87 banshee, and my current bike. I can pull them with two fingers and my shorty clutch any more. LOL My left arm is huge and my right is wimpy. I will kill you with my right-hand thumb though! I've just gotton used to the heavy duty springs. I'm going to a lockup with my next major rebuild though, so I will see how I like it. I think I might miss my HD springs.

I would go with cubs. As said above, by the time you bore our your jugs, resleeve them, then get them ported you will be upwards of the price of a cub cylinder. The cubs will out-perform a big-bore cylinder. As for the builder, just call around and go from there. Its all a matter of personal preference. I like K&T, but a little heads up for you... Kim and Terry are both kinda dicks over the phone, but are awesome people in person. They have about a 3 month wait on stuff right now, they are busy as hell, as is any builder. Jeff at F.A.S.T. is good to deal with as well. Just call around see who you like. K&T has the fastest shit on the western slope, I think Jeff at F.A.S.T. and Passion are both pretty close over on the eastern slope.

I did this with my old 87 on the first clutch I did. Drill the center of it, tap in your easy out and just twist the little bugger out. Run down to your local hardware store and buy a new grade 8 bolt (same threads/length of corse) and try again. ::

That was really rude. I bump my own stuff all the time, its how you get stuff sold. Don't be a dick. FREE BUMP!!!

What you are supposed to do is tighten the first one down like wesw said, then put the second one at like 75ft-lbs then you are supposed to tighten the first one backwards against the second one. Something like that. I never do it that way, I just loctite them both pretty tight and don't worry about it. Hasn't failed me yet.

Stock cylinders can still be ported into some good running shit. Don't totally ditch them. I know I have a few sets still sitting around I might send out.

Agreed, go roundhouse, I will never go back. I just use a little pipe wrench and smack it with a hammer a couple times and it has always broken them lose for me.

Seriously, go away.

If I go out I will get a video of me smashing through some woops for a comparison video. Say 3rd or 4th gear... See how his compares to a little +2+1 action...

Ask around over on PlanetSand.com

Paddles SOLD!! Anyone interested in the stock head or stock carbs??

Yes, sorry for getting things so far off track. If price is your main concern I would get them resleeved, since as others have said, the cubs are a little bit more. If you are looking for more power, the cubs are the best bang for the buck. Again, sorry for jacking your thread. - Jared

Pretty much just how much your sidewall will flex under power, cornering, etc. If you like a litlte body roll then go with a smaller rim if you want them stiff go bigger. It's pretty much up to you. I think an 8" rim would be just fine for you man.

Don't waste your money if you're not going to be seeing big dunes. Stick with the razrs and spin the shiznit out of them. If you dont' mind a little work, cut off every other row of lugs off them and they hook up like a monster and will work a little better in the sand.

Every trinity bike I've EVER seen around here was broke down on a trailer. I saw one of those 420cc big bore kits at walden and there were stockers with pipes, filters, and mild port jobs, with STOCK carbs that outran it. Then it broke down later that weekend. The guy with the 420 kit got off and was looking at my engine and I asked if he wanted to race and he said "are you kidding, I couldn't touch that thing" I didn't have some backyard guy do my porting, K&T is a big-name builder and holds the record at sand mountain last time I checked. Go with the cubs man, they will run better than your big bore, hands down. If nothing else, get the cubs and run them then see how they compare to the 420 kit.

Pics of paddles... No cracks, no broken paddles, great shape. My bike just spins the crap out of them and they never hook up for me. They've been sitting in my banshee parts pile for a couple months now...

Ditch the shit and get something that rips.

If you get a good port job 28's will be too small. Go with 33's. I only run 33's on my 4mil and I'm starving it, they work good with ported stockers.