BigRed350x

F.A.S.T. K&T Passion Patriot Speed Tech Lots of different places do porting. Call around and find one you like.

I wasn't trying to say that our sand was finer than your silt. I don't know how the hell you read that from my thread. I've been around both and sand is way more coarse than silt. That's why I get away with running a K&N. Duh. ::

You guys are getting ripped for that shit. Its only $5.55/gal for 112 around here. $300 a drum.

The K&N's are a good filter if you use them in conjunction with an outerwear. I melted my outerwears last time I was out and about so what I'm doing until I get some new ones ordered is taking a pair of woments panty-hose and putting them over the filters. I only ride in sand so it works pretty good.

Before the 02 model all they had was a tail light, no brake light. If your banshee is from before 02 you won't have the switch down on the foot brake to activate the brake light.

Sounds like too much oil or one of the other breather hoses is clogged up or plugged. Its getting hot, sloshing around and building up enough pressure to leak out. Check the breather hose comming from the rear of the engine and make sure its not plugged. Then check to be sure you aren't over-filled on oil.

They may cost the same, but there is a LOT more you are missing on the 4mil. You can't just buy the crank and throw it in there. You will need spacer plate or stroker domes, if you don't have a cool head, you will need your stock head machined for the stroke. If its a longrod crank you will need new pistons. You should get porting to take advantage of the added stroke. Longer swingarm, new chain / sprockets... list goes on. There's probably some other mods out there that would wake it up more than bigger carbs or a stroker crank. Check out some porting first. I would def. go porting before I did a stroker crank. Its cheaper in the long run and still give you good gains.

Grand River Racing makes a pipe that looks pretty damn close to what rockets look like. I'd imagine its the same pipe.

I want a dunable triple. Mwahahahahaha!

I just put a toggle switch up on my radiator. The one on my bars doesn't work. Never has, never will.

Hey noss, what about with my 16cc domes and 9

Two more nights! Here's how I figure I will do it. I'm going to print all the names using excel spreadsheet on a table, cut out the names and throw them all in a fishbowl and I will draw a name from it. I will post the winner, they PM me their address and I will ship it out to them. Good Luck to everyone! - Jared Edit: I might just start doing this like once a week or once a month with some of the crap I have laying around. I have a head that's totally stock that I could mill down at work for the next one. Mill it or send it stock, whatever the winner wants.

Looks cool, I might have to try one too!

If I had a shit-ton of money I would use the buy it now and send him some massively ported Trex cylinders just to see what he does with them. Wonder if he would be honest enough to give the money back for the porting portion or if he would try and stamp his name on the cylinders and say he did it. Ha Ha

I had a friend in high school with a prelude. He was always... this thing is sooo fast, it is a drifter... He put nitrous on it and blew the head gasket about two days after he filled the nitrous tank. Ha Ha Ha

I kinda tend to agree with helldriver on this one. Something as simple as an oil change. There's nothing to it. It costs WAY less to run down to walmart and buy the oil and change it yourself, including filters. I wouldn't trust any of those fucky-tard places any farther than I could throw them. I've always done all my own work on every vehicle I've owned. I have a jeep cherokee with 265,842 miles on it and it still runs awesome.

That's another vote on stiff as hell and you are going to die first time you jump it.

My +2+1 arms have ball joints on them as well. They didn't hardly last a year before the rubber started cracking off and they filled up with sand. I'm putting heim joints on as soon as I can get some ordered and here. ::

If you are a competant welder, do it yourself. Cheap and it works. Make sure you can weld good though or you will find youself sitting on a cracked swinger right behind the jump you just came over. LOL

Shane can do your rear shock as well. :beer:

They are nice, but too stiff from the get-go. Have them revalved by shane and you will love them even more.

I run the 450 shocks from shane (wolfpack) and they are freaking awesome. I've traded shocks with a guy who had some elka shocks set up for the dunes and my 450 shocks rode way better I thought. They are super soft on light impact and get pretty stiff when I smash into stuff. Its the nicest ride I have ever had. Espeically with my +2+1 arms. He even PC'd my springs to match my bike and set them up to be soft. Everyone who sits on my banshee loves it. I would recommend going with the 450 shock re-valved. You won't regret it. Mine took about two days of riding to get "broke in" but after that they were exactly what I wanted.

I bet your crank hates you.

Like I said before, he was smokin too much crack wit his boost bottle. Ha Ha

Sounds like it might be a stock stroke, stock length rod hotrods crank with two different sized pistons. Take a caliper and check the bore of both and see if its the same. If you are going to get a new crank or have that one rebuilt you should go with a TZ bearing on the clutch side. Talk to some of the builders on here and they can get you set up with what you need. Or check out ebay. I wouldn't run that crank if it feels sloopy or bumpy at all. Split the cases and take the crank out and see what you really have.