BigRed350x

Pics would help you with the sale.

Yes, it will give more top end (to a point) by retarding your timing. If you want more bottom end run it as high as possible. More bottom end, don't run it as high. Pretty simple. More top end run it stock or -2 more bottom end run it up around +4 to +7. I run mine between +7 and +9 most of the time.

What measurements do you need? I can send measurements / pictures for you.

Sorry if you misunderstood me chase, I meant they have the resevoir on the main plunger of the brake system, up by where your foot brake is. Not back on the caliper. Someone here on the HQ did it in the past and it looked super clean. I will see if I can find you some pics of it.

I might do that when I put my next top end together. Have to wait on a bigger crank and new cylinders though so it might be a while before I do that sorta stuff. I will keep it in mind when I get to that point. :beer:

I voted for him!

I wouldn't stick YOUR dick in her hole. That's just weird.

Bump for a great BHQ member! I've bought a couple things from him before, great guy to deal with!

That's more like it! $2650

I hate hearing shit like this. I insist on giving tracking numbers whenever I ship something, even if whoever the buyer is doesn't request them I will give tracking numbers. I had my cubs, head, reeds and crank out of my engine and shipped out within 2 days of selling. Sorry to hear about your troubles man. Hope it gets resolved.

They could have a PVL ignition. It doesn't use a CDI. The individual pickups feed individual coils for each cylinder. Neat stuff, I tried it for a while but liked the way the stock CDI worked. Def. easier to jet your bike with a PVL.

We don't really use ratios to give compression in the two-stroke world. That's more for the 4-stroke crowd. Stock head can range from 90psi to 130ish, it depends on elevation, temp, etc.

Search around a bit, there are lots of pictures and stories and other help-me threads out there that will get you started. This thread was more for people who had been around the banshee for a while but were spooked by splitting the cases. More just to give you an idea of whats involved. Any time I join a new board I usually go back a couple months and go through and read previous posts. Lots of times any questions you might have, have already been answered. - Jared

spray some penetrating oil in there and let it sit over night then try the hammer idea again. Try an air hammer. I've never had any of mine get stuck, but I've seen some pretty bad ones.

Sounds to me like its time for a new top end. Whats your compression. Do like polish said and kick it over with one hand on the plug. Make sure there really is NO spark. Your stator would be more likely to have gone out than your CDI. Stators go out on the banshee quite often. Same with the coil.

Hey man. First, please don't type in all caps. Its hard to read, and online it means you are YELLING! Your question would probably get more results in the jetting forum instead of the mods forum. I've given up trying to give jetting suggestions to people, there's just too many variables. They can get you close but you will have to do the fine tuning yourself. Post this same topic in jetting and you will get some answers. YFZ450's are fast to begin with. If you really want to put them to shame, put some cubs on your shee. :beer:

If you want to see an ohton banshee run I can post a video of one doing some hills down at walden. Really nice bike and it runs HARD.

Check my "splitting the cases" thread that's in my signature. It will get you started. I was meaning more if anyone wanted specific pics of any certain parts or how they work inside the cases. If you had something in general you were wondering about, I can def. get you some pics. I already have a LOT of pics in the thread in my signature about splitting the cases. Make sure you scroll all the way to the end of the thread through all the pages, some of the pics are separated by peoples comments, and I added more pics to the post the next day when I worked on it. :beer: - Jared

This is a great place to learn to work on these things. Lots of information here and lots of help. I have a "splitting the cases" thread in my signature I did a while back. It can help with some simple stuff. I suggest getting a clymer manual. Its your bible from now on. Ha Ha Feel free to ask any question about any work you might want to do on the shee. - Jared

I've used the pickle fork idea in the past, but I was replacing boots at the same time so didn't mind if I tore them. I used a fork in my air hammer and they came right out, didn't even have to try. I also spray penetrating oil on parts like that the night before I plan on doing it. Makes everything soooo much easier.

I have my cases split right now from when I sold my crank and cubs. If anyone wants pictures of anything inside the cases let me know and I can get you pics of whatever you need. - Jared

If it won't go into 1st you might have a bent fork. If the shift star actually broke I would split the cases to see what really happened. Shift stars don't break. I've never seen one break. So if yours did something else bad must have happened to cause it to break. I would def. split the cases and check for damage to the forks, glide rods, drum etc. If you need more help, I have my cases split right now and can get pics of anything you need. - Jared

Yeah I can do it for you man. My banshee is tore apart right now so I actually have a lot of free time since I'm not out riding every single weekend now. If you are interested I can do the work you are talking about on your frame. (remove stock useless mounts, re-tap stripped holes, sand-blast the frame) Shoot me a PM and we can talk about it. Here's some work I did on my frame about a week ago. Still working on mine though. Doing a custom rear end for it. I don't usually run rear plastics though so I really gutted the rear end. - Jared

I was reading this and was pretty interested since it was stock. Then I got to the price he was expecting. I could build one hell of a mean banshee that would spank the shiz out of a zilla for that $$. Free bump.

I made my own rig when I cut my last set of razr's. We took a thin metal bar and sharpened a nice edge on one side, welded a handle on either end then heated it up with a torch and slid it through the knobbies. Left a nice clean cut and if you are careful and don't try and take too much all at once you can get down pretty close to the tire without going through. Smokes a LOT though so don't do it inside a garage or anything.