BigRed350x

Yeah, being jetted correctly is always a good thing! It doesn't matter if your jetting is spot on and you are trying to ride in -15

I had an 87 that I was second owner on. It was constantly breaking and falling apart, no matter what I did to the poor thing. Ended up selling it and getting my first 450. Then it blew up and i traded it and my warrior for my current banshee. Then I got another 450. Now I'm building a second banshee for the girl in my life. :beer:

I ran both stock stroke cub and 4mm cub castings. They are different. The stock stroke I ran with my 4mm crank and I had to use cut domes or a spacer plate to make them work right, but the port timings were always off and it was screwing me out of power. I got the ones cast for the 4mm and didn't need the spacer plate or specially cut domes any more. I did still need to use the 795 series pistons for my longer rods though. - Jared

I would go with a smaller size carb than a 35 speaking from experience. Yes a 4mil engine will need a bigger carb but you said you do trails... a smaller carb will give you more bottom end response than a bigger carb. The bigger carb you will get more up on top but less bottom end response. I ran 33's on my 4mil cub and loved it. Real snappy down low, but I did miss out on a little more power up on top. The cylinders and my pipes already gave it a monster top end though so I was pretty happy. For dune riding I loved the 33's but when I would start drag racing I wished I had 35's. Def. go with the cut domes. They will give you more bottom end and its easier to deal with than the spacer plate. I ran both on my setup a while back and I would definitely suggest going with the cut domes. I had patriot racing cut my first set of domes and it was $90 to get them both cut and shipped to my door. After that I cut my own domes and it was a lot cheaper and I could make them as small as I needed since I ride at such high elevations. I was running a 15-16cc dome when I finially tore my shee apart to go bigger.

It sounds like you might not be letting it warm up enough. Its continuing to sputter because the engine isn't hot enough to run properly. Maybe try and let it warm up a little longer next time and see if it helps. I know I get ansy sometimes and take off too soon and mine would do that same sorta thing. If I let it warm up more it wouldn't do it.

I will stand by loco every step of the way. I've done a couple transactions with him here on the HQ and everything goes more than smooth with him every time. Good luck with it man!

Oh come on, you could always MAKE it work. Ha Ha Ha I read it wrong and was thinking this was a honda for some reason. You'd think I would see the blue and think suzuki... duh :: :shoothead:

echo...echo.....echo......echo...........echo

Stole this from our dry ice supplier... What is Dry Ice Blasting? Dry ice blasting is the use of solid CO2 (carbon dioxide) pellets accelerated by compressed air to clean or strip industrial equipment, machinery, buildings, floors etc. of unwanted contaminates. Dry ice pellets impact the surface and expand instantly into a gaseous state hundreds of times greater than their original solid volume, creating miniature explosions on the surface being cleaned. Dry ice is -109 F, this thermal shock aids in removing many materials. Dry ice blasting has a huge benefit in protecting investments. No longer is there a need to use abrasive media blasting, rotary sanding discs, abrasive pads, scrapers etc. which remove metal and cause expensive tooling repair. If the surface was originally polished, it will still be polished after the dry ice blasting job is done. Dry ice blasting removes no metal, extending equipment and tooling life. Dry ice blasting is non abrasive, therefore masking of glass, bearings, moving metal parts etc. is not required. Many types of machines can now be cleaned in place and on line, completely eliminating the need of shutdowns for cleaning. Less downtime equals greater production time. We actually used a mix of decomposed coal grit and dry ice on this frame. The dry ice would have removed the PC that was on the frame, but would take a while. I also wanted a surface that was semi-rough so whatever I put on the frame would have something to adhere to really well. The decomposed coal makes the surface rough and the dry ice cleans all the contaminants off the frame. =)

If you do use jbweld or epoxy make sure you rough up the area prior to putting the stuff in. Use a dremel and put some little dimples in the surface and make it rough so the epoxy has something ot grab on to. Also make sure you clean it really really good before you put that stuff in there so it doesn't get contaminated and flake off later. Some sort of industrial cleaner or almost a light acid to remove the layers of oil and much that are on the aluminum. Any time I use epoxy on cases I always clean it like I were going to be doing tig work on the aluminum. Make sure there is NOTHING there but bare aluminum.

Sell that R engine to someone who wants to build a sabertooth 500. (me) LOL

Sounds like your throttle cable is doing something weird. It could also be a short somewhere in your wiring harness. When you turn your wheeles something might be touching the harness somewhere and causing a short between two worn out wires. Its hard to tell man. Turning the wheeles on a banshee doesn't do anything besides turn the wheels so you have something else going on. Pull your gas tank and look for problems in the wiring. Maybe you have part of your harness would around your steering stem and its trying to unplug something when you turn.

I remember when i first came to the HQ. I was looking for an eletrical schematic. I just picked up my old 87 and it came from ebay in a couple boxes and a frame. LOL I had no idea what to do with stuff. HQ helped me out a lot. Now I build the stupid things for other people around here. What a mess I got myself into.

That's all fine and dandy but it looks like one wheel sits farther forward than the other. I think its kinda goofy. Seems to me there would be some better ways of getting a lot of travel. That just looks like a LOT of work and seems like it would be kinda weak to me. The welds look good, but there is a lot of weird angles that would have to handle a LOT of stress in that design. Would be interesting to see how it holds up to a couple years of riding.

Go to www.dunereview.com and he has a whole writeup over there about putting HID's on his banshee and also has lots of pics of different light combos.

No problem. I think we talked about it in PM's before didn't we? I get a lot of PM's every day so its hard to keep track of who and what's going on. Hit me up in another PM. - Jared I will let you know as soon as your frame gets here. We will start out with a lot of pics of the frame then go through and decide whats going to go and what's going to stay. I've got the mounting points for the steering stem bearing figured out in my head and how I'm going to do it on yours. Then its just lots of cutting and welding after that. For anyone not familiar with dry ice blasting do some research, its a great way to strip your frame down to bare metal. No residue, nothing to clean up, safe for the environment... Its kinda rough on stuff though, if you have any weak spots in the metal it will def. show them to you! It leaves the metal with a rough finish. If you rub this frame it will feel exactly like rubbing 150grit sandpaper. Sandblasting tends to leave a smooth finish, the dry ice gives whatever you are going to spray on the frame a wonderful base to grab on to. Primer, paint, PC, rhino lining. Any of it will grab real good to a frame sprayed with dry ice. Its my new favorite way to strip stuff.

When I split my cases last time I totally jacked the hell out of my puller and was tired and didn't want to mess with it any more so I welded the puller to the wheel and hit it with the impact gun. The stator was shot anyway... and I have a spare flywheel so no biggie.

OK, I blasted the frame with dry ice today. Here's some pics. She is still not sure on what color she wants, but we are sending it out tomarrow for some new candy! Here's the frame after I removed all the unused mounts, filled engine mount holes, then blasted it with the dry ice. I love the clean look of the sub frame when you strip all that junk out of there. :happy: - Jared

LOL, you can do both, split the cases then pressure wash everything inside. LOL I use an industrial parts washer to clean my stuff. That or a diesel wash. Makes everything nice & shiny! Check out the link in my signature for the splitting the cases thread, I also think someone posted it above.

I'm sending loco's red frame out for a re-PC after I did some work on the frame. I will let you all know where / how much it ends up being. I'm doing some research right now for places. I will probably go with somewhere out in utah since its so close.

OK so I just scored both cylinders a head and pistons off ebay for $202 including shipping. 64mm bore on the cylinders and I'm sending them out for porting soon as I get them. Sweet deal! Thanks! Still looking for the other stuff though!

I've done it that way a couple times and I've done these things so many times I just throw everything in a pile. I'm pretty good at getting everything back where it goes. Sometimes I end up with 1 or 2 extras and I just stand there and stare at them wondering if they were important or not. ROFL

If you need I can weld your frame for you. I'm working on a few other people's frames from the HQ right now...

So a search, I just posted a LOT of pictures of a frame I just finished stripping of mounts. LOTS of pictures. I can give you more pics if you need as well.

Is it roundhouse?