BigRed350x

Built this from the ground up for a girl I was seeing, then it didn't work out so now i want to sell it. I have some parts listed in another for-sale ad. I would prefer to sell it whole. This was a total rebuild for the most part. $2000 Chassis: New Frame, has all the stock mounts removed that aren't needed. +4 Chrome heavy duty roundhouse swinger roundhouse carrier bearing, not even a year old stock axle, with spacers to match front width +2+1 chrome a-arms YFZ450 shocks custom valved for 200lb rider, dune riding Stock YFZ450 knobbies on the rear and stock banshee rims/tires up front. Chrome footpegs Chrome nerf bars w/ no nets 44t Rear sprocket Stock radiator MSR Dominator Silver finish bars Billet thumb throttle cover Stainless steel brake lines front and back, just bled entire brake system. Aftermarket front bumper Stock rear grab bar, tweaked up a little bit. Chrome shifter lever (all chrome parts, except front suspension is fresh chrome, less than 5 months old) Engine: total tear down and re-assembly. Brand new clutch Brand new Ricky Stator 100watt stator Stock stroke crank, new bearings on both sides. Brand new crank seals Shift Star Mod Billet Water Impeller Billet case guard billet case inserts on clutch side Cascade billet stator cover on stator side. Stock reeds Reed Spacers Billet intakes, for 33-35mm carbs New pushrod, ball and adjustment bolt on clutch 13T front sprocket Stock cylinders 64mm bore, basic cleanup port by me. Nothing fancy. Stock head, milled .030" new bearings on transmission too. Bike will come with seat, and full set of cut plastics, front and rear have been cut. Plastics are flat black. Just had them removed since it was a work in progress. Things I know it needs... Top end kit. Bearings are fine you can use the old ones. Need new boots for the ball joints on front a-arms. The rubber boots that are on there are weathered and cracking a little. Suspension still runs nice and smooth, no stiff spots or anything at all, just needs new boots on the ball joints. Needs carbs and pipes. Basically a top end, pipes and carbs and you are ready to roll. I ride my stuff hard but take good care of it. Everything on this is either off of ol blue or brand new from the ground up. I would like to get $2000 for it, but I'm open to offers. Located in Rock Springs, WY. Willing to drive as far as Denver, CO or Salt Lake City, UT. Can drive as far south as Montrose, CO and as far north as yellowstone for delivery or to meet. Here's a picture of the donor bike for a lot of the parts... THIS IS NOT THE BANSHEE FOR SALE, just a picture of the donor bike I took a lot of the parts off of.

I was already planning on using the stem for your frame build unless I sell the whole banshee. If you want to keep it, we can figure that out later. Thanks for the support. - Jared

I'd be up for selling the whole thing as it sits right now. Basically a complete banshee minus pipes and carbs. Has chromed aftermarket suspension. I figure somewhere around $2k if someone wants the whole thing. Pull it out of the garage and on your trailer / truck. Make offers if you are interested in the whole thing. I will get some pics of it today. - Jared

Thanks for the email! :thumbsup:

I'll take a YFZ over that turd any day. I've seen my dog crap prettier things than that. LOL I would race it on my YFZ...

You aren't alone, I've spent about 40 hours straight out in my garage working on nothing but banshees trying to get them running for something comming up. You're not the first one to do it. :beer:

Bump

If you haven't read... some shit happened and I'm ditching the banshee I was building for the girl i was with. I don't want it around any more as it just makes me think about her and all that stupid shit... I will list more stuff as I go out to the garage and remember what's on the bike... Here's a few big things that I know need to go... Chrome +4 heavy duty swingarm. Chrome plating not even 6 months old. Roundhouse carrier, comes WITH roundhouse bearing. Swingarm was built by locogato here on the board, and TRUST me I beat it pretty hard and it performs flawlessly and it stronger than anything I have used before. Perfect condition, minus the bushings on the frame end. One is cracked, the other is fine. Pretty much a bolt on and go, you will just need a new bushing for where your bolt mounts through it. I would like to get $400 for the swingarm, and this comes WITH the roundhouse bearing and brake attachment bracket. Next item: +2+1 chrome a-arms. I never could figure out who made these. They were on my shee when I got it. They look like LSR a-arms, but I can't say that since I don't know. They have honda style ball joints at the spindle side, and a couple of the ball joints need replaced, or at least the little rubber boot needs replaced as they are cracking. It is probably a good idea to get new bushings for the frame side as well, as they are starting to show a little play. they also look like burgard a-arms, but again, can't say that as I don't know what they are. All 4 of them are straight, no bends, no cracks whatsoever. The chrome is starting to dull as these have been on my shee since I've owned it. They still look good, just not that perfect chrome any more. A little bit of elbow grease and they will look really nice for someone. They will come with the tie rods as well. One tie rod has a slight curve to it, nothing major, still works just fine. Both have scratch marks on them from the previous owner not knowing how to adjust them correctly and he tried to use some sort of wrench on the main shaft instead of he nuts. Would like to get $300 for them, but I'm open to offers. Next item... YFZ450 shocks, custom valved by wolfpack racing. I was about 200lbs when I had these set up, and they are set up for my a-arms and my riding style. Mainly duning. They are really soft, fast recoil shocks. Custom valving! They can handle some really hard landings too, trust me. I've launched off some huge stuff and had no fear landing with my suspension and shocks. These are very nicely done by wolfpack and if you ride dunes you would love these shocks. Again, they are set up for +2+1 arms so keep that in mind. Springs have been custom powder-coated to match the blue color on ol blue's frame. Would like to get $275 for these, but again, I'm open to offers. I also have the entire engine out of this banshee. I JUST finished rebuilding this thing. New (used, but in really really good condition) crank, new crank bearings installed on both sides, brand new crank seals, new bearings on the transmission. New o-rings, seals, etc everywhere. Has billet impeller, shift star mod already done. BRAND new clutch installed, 3HD springs, 3 stock. Comes with billet case saver as well. The upper case has a crack from a chain bind. The crack does NOT go inside the cases, it is purely cosmetic, simply a crack. Stock cylinders, 64mm bore, I did a little cleanup porting on them, nothing fancy. Head has been decked .030. It WILL need a top end kit installed. It will NOT come with pistons. Comes with clutch cover, beat up billet flame skull clutch cover insert and ok condition flaming skull matching water pump cover. Stator cover is NOT included and will be sold seperately. fresh engine, ready to bolt in and go, minus top end. Cylinders are ready to go, just need pistons. Everything just went through and ready to rip! Would like to sell the engine as a whole, so I will give people time to think about it and make offers before I part it out. Stock engines usually sell for around $800-1000 on ebay. I would like to get $950 for it, since I just finished going through the whole thing and it already has some stuff done to it. Brand new clutch, billet impeller, shift star mod, new seals and bearings, really good stock crank, BRAND NEW ricky stator 100watt stator, brand new out of the package. I'm open to offers though, just don't low-ball me or I will just ignore you. LOL This engine hasn't even been started since rebuild. It's just sitting out in my garage waiting for a new home. :beer: I also have a set of chrome footpegs, and chrome nerf bars with no nets that I am going to sell as well. Haven't looked at prices for those yet so I'm not listing them right now. Here's a picture of what most of the parts came off of... I will get pics of anything anyone wants tomarrow. I'm also interested in just selling the thing as a whole, so don't be afraid to send me some offers if you want the whole thing as it sits right now. - Jared

Because I built it for HER and I don't really have any need for it. Already have a 10mil I'm building and my 450. I spent that money on it for her and it was a gift for her. Just don't want it around me any more and I would rather get some of the money back to put into other things. :shrug:

OK I 'm not going to get into any kinda detail here, you an all figure out what happened. Needless to say, I have a second banshee sitting in my garage now that I have no need for. Just finished building it yesterday. No sense in having a bike for a girl if the girl isn't going to be that significant part of my life any more. I'm selling EVERYTHING on it. From the ground up to the bars, everything goes. Would like to recoup some of the expense of building it if I can. Already sold pipes and carbs and have someone interested in the intakes. Other than that, everything else must go. Check the for sale section later for listings of parts. I would like to sell the engine as a whole, but will part it out if I can't sell it as a unit. Selling everything... a-arms, swingarm, shocks, frame... everything. I feel like shit about all of it, and the time I spent on it so I just want it gone. I should have everything in the for sale section later tonight. - Jared

Great, so now when you hit something in the road your tire will deform and instead of your suspension traveling upward whatever it is you hit will smash into the undercarriage of your car and bugger everything up.

I wouldn't say that .080 is a grenade waiting to happen. I ran .080 on my 87 shee for almost a year with no problems. I know a couple people who are at .100 and still do ok. I agree though, without a big-bore sleeve, he can't be at 420 or 421. He would need a sleeve capable of 68mm to go with the stroker to get that displacement. His power and speed etc depends a lot on his porting and rider ability. I keep up with a lot of piped cammed and intaked YFZ's on my YFZ and all I have done is a simple little intake manifold, nothing else. Its usually more rider ability than what they have done. If a slower bike can get the jump out of the hole they might have enough to stay ahead of a bigger bike. If I had to guess based just on what you said, I would say he is probably somewhere between 75 and 100hp. Probably in the 80's range if he has a good port job and a big bore cylinder.

Sory everyone who was interested, They are SOLD! SOLD! :beer: :biggrin: :beer:

PM returned.

Sent you a couple PM's. Check the for sale section!

I have a set of unstamped white show chrome in-frame CPI drag pipes if you are interested. $300 shipped. check the for sale section for pics. :beer:

I have a couple sets laying around. I have one set that I did a little cleanup on, nothing fancy, just smoothed intake edges and brought the transfer wall to an edge. 64mm bore, sand-blasted. $180 shipped to you. Edit: I can provide pics if you want.

I have a set i will sell you for $175 shipped. 33 PWK's with whatever jet you want installed in them, the choke lever on one is kinda melted from a pipe hitting it, but still works just fine. One float has been removed from each carb for a larger fuel volume in the bowl. This DOES NOT inhibit operation whatsoever, they still work just like they would with two floats, you just get more fuel in the bowl to prevent starvation. $175 w/ throttle cable and whatever jets you want installed in them. Here's a pic of the melted choke handle. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c

I'm selling a set of unstamped white show chrome CPI in-frame drag pipes for $300. See the for sale section. :beer:

Have a set of CPI in-frame drag pipes, white show chrome, unstamped. Listed them before, but decided I want to sell them this time. LOL they just aren't the kinda pipe I want to have on the shee I'm building for michelle and I can't use them on my 10mil I'm building. I'm not interested in trades right now since I don't know what kinda pipe I'm going to go with. Only looking to sell them. $300 shipped. I'm an honest guy and have a good rep with sales / shipping here on the board. I won't lie about the pipes, so ask any questions you have. There are a few small dings on the INSIDE edge of the pipes where they hit my cool head then I had them mounted up. There are marks on the ouside edge of the pipes back by where they meet the stingers from pants rubbing on them. The upper mounts on both pipes crack and have been welded and have since cracked in a different place. This is NOT uncommon with the unstamped pipes, since their mounts were different than the new ones Weld them up and they will be fine. My welds held for a year before new cracks showed up. You can also send them to CPI and they will weld new mounts on for you, new style. The stinger tubes have melted plastic crap on them from hitting my outerwears and where a wire fell on them. the silenders are ok, but do show some wear and tear. The mount on one silencer broke off and was crappily fixed (tried to weld aluminum before I knew how, LOL) but it still bolts up and holds just fine, just doesn't look the best. The outside edge of the pipes and any parts that people will see when they are mounted up on your bike are in great condition. No dents or dings on the outside edge, and only a few small ones on the inside where people can't see them. See the pics. First come first serve. I'm not going to hold them and wait for someone to get cash. First person to paypal me $$ gets them. I will provide tracking numbers right after I ship them. Paypal: [email protected]

I had problems when I built my first cub as well. Granted, they weren't really the cubs fault, just everything happened at the same time since it was a total over-haul and lots of things changed. My first cub was a stock stroke casting and I was running it with a 4mil and I was unhappy with the power output. i had a shiz-ton of eletrical problems and ended up just buying a new OEM harness and EVERYTHING eletrical. Then I couldn't get the stupid thing tuned right, mostly because my port timings were so jacked. I got sick of it and got a 4mil casting. Fixed everything pretty quick once I had the right setup. Ran great for almost a year then the electrical problems came back. I think its just that I tend to ride just a LITTLE bit more than most people and I find the weak spots on the banshee a lot quicker. When you put over 30hrs ride time on a shee in a single weekend, things are bound to come up. I can usually get about 75-100hrs on a top end. You can imagine how much tinkering I do with these things and how often i end up replacing parts. I'm also getting really good at fixing problems and tuning. Ha ha!

I would say you are either pretty damn close or right on. Maybe a little rich like everyone else said, but I would leave it there. Being one size rich on the main isn't a bad thing. It will let you get that little bit more life out of your top end. I usually run mine a size or even two on the rich side. With how much I ride, I would rather have longevity than that extra bit of power that I probably wouln't realy notice after I ride for a while. :beer: Looks good to me! :thumbsup:

I was running 16cc domes and 9

PM'd you back!

If its any consolation, the transmission problem is probably an easy fix with a new shift cam adjustment bolt / mechanism. The old one is probably worn and its just not grabbing the cogs right. Like $45 or so for new OEM parts that you will need if I remember correctly. That thing down in the bottom left hand corner of the case. Its attached to the shift rod that your shifter lever bolts to, and the other end of it rests on your shift star. That's probably the part you need, and its a good idea to get the adjustment bolt too, it gets worn out and gets crappy. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c258/Big...02/a7603636.jpg Pull your clutch cover and check to see if your backlash in that mechanism matches the recommended specs of your clymer manual. Hope that helps, and sorry to hear you got scammed man. :beer: We will help you get it going right!