BigRed350x

Find a COMPETANT welding shop, split your cases and take your crank to them. Anyone who has experience with a tig can do it for you. I welded my own and I ran 16cc domes and saw compression as high as 197psi with no problems at all. :shrug: I would def. get it welded though. the stock crank is a pretty good unit once trued and welded up. If a good oil is used and it is taken care of, it will last just as long as any other crank if not longer.

I like that little scrawny 60lb kid driving the banshee. LOL I bet the whole time that kid is holding on for dear life just hoping he makes it to the finish line alive. The busa is such a hog. I would try a gsxr or R1 engine long before I would try a busa. Lots of power, but at the price of weight. I'd like to see an R1 with that much $$ and time into it run him just to see how it would turn out. Would be cool.

Yeah, I use that high temp red silicone. Have used it for years, on every set of cases I have split. Haven't had one leak yet, and the stuff holds together forever. Its high temp, soft-sealant, gas and oil resistant, and easy to apply. Cheap too! One tube will do like 10 sets of cases.

If you can figure out a place to hook it to a slide hammer might work for you. You can use the jaw type puller, just make sure you get one big enough and be careful with it. You CAN use those, they are just a little tricky. I've had to use them out at the dunes in the past, but we put brass pads between the jaws and the flywheel so the jaws didn't scar it up at all. - Jared

Don't diss the 450's too much man. My 450 will get up and run with a LOT of banshee's. There are quite a few guys with pipes, head, reeds, and filters who will line up with me and find themselves quite disapointed at the end of the race. It's not hard to make the modern 450's fast. I have had both a hopped up banshee and a couple 450's and I like them both. Good luck with your fix-ups. Keep reading around the HQ and see what you can find. LOTS of information over here. - Jared Edit: If they are ported, its a different story though. LOL

I run FZR fibers, tusk steels, and some HD springs I got from (can't remember where) I was running that setup on my 4mil cub and didn't have any trouble with it.

No, the groove in the upper portion is so the ring can rotate up once your cases are together. Its only purpose is to hold that bearing in place, doesn't matter if its on the top or bottom or half-way between.

Dude, don't pay that much, that's gay. Do the work yourself. These things are NOT hard to work on. Hell, pull your top end off and send it to one of us and we could do it for half that. That's just plain retarded. You shouldn't include the price of the port job in the price to get it running again, you don't NEED it ported to get it running again, that's just something extra. If all you are concerned about is getting it running again, you are looking at $130 or so for top end kit. $20 for gasket kit, a machine shop should only charge you like $80 to bore BOTH cylinders. Buy your own hone thingy from a hardware store or online for like $35 and hone it yourself. That's... $80 bore $35 hone $130 Top End Kit $20 Gaskets probably like $20-40 for shipping of this stuff to you. That's like maybe $300, depending on what shipping would be for you. Send your cylinders to someone like jeff at FAST. I bet he could do it cheaper than what your local performance shop is quoting you, and he is a professional who specializes in these particular engines. I would bet you that his $175/cylinder port job wouldn't give you the power jeff's dune port would. Seriously give him a hollar. Send him a PM and talk to him before you make any choices. Call around and do some homework a little bit. Your local shop is ripping you off and you wouldn't see the performance gains you would from a professional builder...who can do all the stuff you need for probably at least a little bit cheaper. Or talk to some of us here on the board. If your cylinders aren't totally fuggered up, I know I could get it up and running again for a lot less than $750. - Jared

It changes randomly from time to time. LOL I get bored so I go find new ones...

Its kinda like TTT. Up Up and Away! Bump

ROFL because you are.

Keep in mind that the stock bike puts out around 80-85 watts from the stator. It has two 35 watt bulbs. That's 10-15 that the bike probably needs to run itself and generate spark. 200-15= how much you can suck out of your stator with fancy lights. Never really looked at it, but i think the spark generation and the portion of the coil that produces the power for accessories are different coils. So maybe you really could use the full 200watts to power junk on your ride. I wouldn't suggest that though. My suggestion is to float the ground, get a battery and convert it to DC. You could run your lights and stuff without the bike running and could probably run a little bit more than you could with just the stator since your batter is acting like a massive capacitor in the electrical system.

That would suck to not have any in there at all. Generally I try and replace mine at least every 40-50hrs of operation. Less than that if I ride hard. :beer:

Jump in there and do it yourself! Its a piece of cake! If you do run into any problems we can help you out.

If it got hot enough to cause problems like that, make sure you check your cylinder walls for warping. When they get that hot, the cylinders will try to oval out. Only way to fix it is with a LOT of boring and sometimes a resleeve. Probably toasted a top end and you will def. need a bore if that's the case. Something's not right, and you shouldn't run it any more until you figure out what the problem is and fix it. The more you run it the worse it will get and the more headaches it will cause you later.

I need stock intake manifolds with the crossover tube. How much?

Sweet, when are you going to bring it over to give to me? :biggrin:

K&T Billet Aluminum Intake Manifold. Has buit-in, o-ringed cross-over tube between the intakes. No more stupid boost bottle or balance tube. Looks super clean installed, and the cross-over tube is hidden between the carbs. Come with the rubber boots, in good shape. Nothing wrong with it at all. Have other stuff I'm building and can't run the carbs that would fit in this intake on any of my projects. I am looking for the stock intake boots w/ balance pipe, so if someone has the stock intake manifolds and wants these we can work a deal, but I need the stockers fast, as in... I need stock ones in-hand by this comming monday. Make me a deal! $145 shipped. Please note, the intake manifold will NOT come with mounting hardware, you will need to go to a local hardware store and buy some metric bolts to bolt it up to your bike. I only deal with paypal, and i will provide shipping tracking numbers soon as its shipped and if someone has a stock intake they want to make a trade/deal on, I will expect the same thing.

Now that sounds more like something I would enjoy. :beer:

bumblefuckin iowa. ROFL NYUK you crack me up man. :laugh:

You wouldn't regret it. Great pay out this way, and you have one of the top 5 biggest sand dunes, and the countries absolute least ridden sand dunes about a half-hour outside of town!

I've had chase ship me quite a bit of stuff and he follows through every time he says he will. Mail is slow, no matter what company you go with. Hang in there, I'm sure the shock will get there. :beer:

That sucks man. Sorry to hear it. Bump

I'm sorry, did you buy a banshee or something? Did I miss the post where you contributed something banshee related? :yelrotflmao:

Sorry, but that's weird that he sent you a used head gasket. Those things are cheap and any time i pull a head I toss the old one. Dunno about that... Just sounds weird.