BigRed350x

Its just FZR fibers and barnett steels with some heavy duty springs. Nothing fancy and you can buy the parts pretty cheap on the net, just look around on some of the sport-bike sites and check out their sponsors sites. :biggrin: The FZR fibers are just thicker and made from a slightly better compound than the banshee parts out there.

Yeah, sounds like a float sticking, or your needle valve could be getting worn out. This is also definitely a contributing factor to the bike not staying running. Its flooding out on that cylinder and can't stay running. Pull your carbs and re-check and clean them. - Jared

Dave does some great work. You might give the guys at cascade innovations a call as well. They have a good size online store, but they also do more than what's on their website. Shoot Firehead a PM here on the HQ, he lives in oregon and can give you some recommendations for local builders to your area. - Jared

Cascade Innovations. www.cascadeinnovations.net They carry OEM banshee parts as well as tons of performance and aftermarket parts. Great guys to deal with. Best part is... you can actually order parts off of their web site! What an amazing idea! rockymountainatv m&m ATV online. You can get everything you need through them. If you want anything you can't find on those sites get a hold of lynn at LC Performance and he can get it.

The 4mil (421) will give you more torque and will probably feel like it takes less "effort" to ride due to the increased torque over the stock stroke (392) cub. The stock stroke will feel like it revs up a lot quicker and usually feel more zippy than the 4mils, but the 4mil will yield more power than the stock stroke witht he off-the-shelf castings. If you don't already have the 4mil crank and want to do the cub cylinder the 392 is the cheaper way to go and you will still have pretty good gains over stock cylinders in most cases. Its not an "oh my god!" difference in power, but there definitely is a difference in power between the two. But what you feel when you're riding it is more the torque than the power difference. Identical setups, riders, chassis, etc the 4mil cub will probably be able to pull 1 or 2 teeth higher on the front sprocket than the stock stroke cub. Hope that helps. - Jared

I think jjna carries them or could make them for you. You might give LSR a call as well, they could probably make you a set. Why not just drill out your honda rims to fit your banshee hubs? Just do some good measuring and mark your holes real good before you drill them out. - Jared

Try and snag a set of mikuni carbs. They have changeable dump tubes...

A common misconception is that you can't change PWK's around. The main internal body of a keihin CAN be changed out with another. You have to have the internal body from the same size and sytle carb, but it can be done. You just have to look around pretty hard to find someone who sells the internal bodies, as most retailers won't sell you just the part you need without selling you the entire carb. Just keep in mind that a PWK Airstryker does not use the same internal body as a normal PWK. They look the same, but have different holes drilled in them. You need to have a star bit with the center hole to remove the specialty screw that holds the internal body in place in a PWK.

Drain your coolant and pop the little cover off on the clutch side that houses your water impellar. Remove the cover for the water impellar and kick your bike over and watch the impellar and make sure its spinning. If it spins free and doesn't sit still, its probably not the issue. Most overheating issues are caused by jetting. If the problem just started happening all of a sudden without any major changes to the bike, you might just have a plugged up jet or fuel line. Pull your carbs off and clean them real good. Check to be sure that all of your coolant lines are in place and tight and going the right direction. It should come from your clutch cover to the bottom of the radiator, and from the top of the radiator to the front side of your head, out the back of the head and down into your cases. Double check your coolant level, clean your carbs real good and check your fuel lines and be sure they are flowing freely. Then I'd do a plug chop and ensure your jetting isn't the problem. If your impellar spins good when you kick it over, its probably fine. If you really want to check it out to be sure, pull the clutch cover and make sure none of the teeth on your impellar gear are broken. - Jared

The cheetah will make more power when set up right. The bore on the cheetah can go much larger than a normal cub. A super cub is capable of the larger bore, but requires some porting to run right due to the added bore taking away from the transfer area. The cheetah has a larger intake than the cub and can use powervalves if you want them and the cylinder is cast to use them. (some cheetah castings don't have the cutouts machined in for the powervalves) The cheetah will make more power if set up correctly. The cubs are a potent package though. Call lynn at LC Performance and he can set you up with an awesome cheetah or cub setup.

I need one of these for my 612 twister.

IF you replaced the o-ring on the coolant line that comes into your side-case, and put a new gasket on your impellar cover and it still leaks, I'd move to your impellar seal next. They come in a seal kit, or you can buy it from cascade. Its usually the little o-ring you replaced that leaks in that area, but the seals do go bad once in a while. Fill it up and ride it and check your fluids and check where you park for any little leaks. If its still getting the coolant in the oil I'd check/replace your seal next. hope that helps - jared

Yo momma is similar to 1018.

I buy mine from Direct Drive.

Looks like a pretty good start!

Its just matching the porting on your cases to your cylinders. Gets rid of the ledges and ridges caused by putting ported cylinders on stock port cases. Only takes a few hours to get pretty decent results with the right tools. If you go to the images section and search for ported cases you can find some pics of some I did a little while back.

Man, you guys must have some bad luck or somethin. Or I have good luck! haha! I have ASR a-arms with heims all the way around and have been running them for going on 3 years now. They are still just as tight as the day I bought them. I also run their heim tie rods and love them.

There is a different spring put ont he shaft that makes it not-so-stiff. This in combination with the roller bearing that rides on you shift star that you can get through cascade, and the shift star mod it will get it about as good as you can get without splitting with cases and side-cutting the gears or dropping in a duneable. If you take it all apart and look at how the trans really works you can find a few other things you can do to ease things up a little. The addition of springs on certain shafts inside the cases and some cutting done to the shift drum can make things smooth as butter, even under power.

Go for it. They are a good unit.

I'd go with kevin in a heartbeat if I had to choose between the two builders listed. I'll toss another one out there for you to consider, but you have to just call and talk to him to figure out what he's charging for prices now-a-days. Eric Gorr. If you want a low-end or mid-range port job he's the man to see. But yeah, Kevin at HJR won't steer you wrong. I've seen his porting first-hand and he does good work. - Jared

Gregrob, I am the master of all things banshee. I forbid you to buy anything from FAST or associate with any of his nutswingers. LOL

I don't claim to have the fastest bike out there, or even at KP for that matter. There have been plenty of bikes that have outrun me at KP, with smaller displacement. My black bike does hold its own pretty well against most stock stroke and 4mil cubs though. There are also a LOT of them that hand my ass to me at the bigger sand dunes. But at KP I haven't met anyone with a cub cylinder I couldn't beat yet. But that's just play racing. Not on a track. And most bikes out here still have stock or stock-ish frames. As long as you enjoy what you ride and its what YOU want that's all that matters. I've had a stock stroke K&T ported cub, and a 4mil K&T ported cub as well as a 10mil A&S ported cub. I still like my 4mil gorr ported stock cylinders the most. Its the best all-around bike I've had yet. And built it myself, it wasn't dropped in my lap. :geek: - Jared

billet cases or no?

PM's returned... Bump!

I didn't tell you those were 21" tires, I said that's what I thought would work best with your setup. If I did say those were a 21" I'm sorry. Those are my old tires that firehead is selling and they are indeed a 20" - Jared