BigRed350x

Title says it... I have a WCR 2-5 full override that I would like to trade stright across for a dunable. Shoot me some offers.

I traded a bike for my drag bike which has just about every little goodie out there. So it only took me about 2 days worth of driving to meet firehead for the trade. lol! IMO a dune bike is just as bad as the drag bikes. My duner has been a work in progress for about 4 or 5 years now... There are too many goodies out there on the market to ever be finished. :geek:

I've seen setups with excessive piston - cylinder wall clearance cause a light vibration in the cylinder and rattle out plugs. Something else you might check next time you have the head off or cylinders off.

I'd stop and hit up St. Anthony dunes in Idaho and Sand Mountain, UT loooong before I would ever go to glamis. check those two places out for sure if you get the chance.

For most bikes out there a normal hauler will work pretty well. Once you start getting into the higher horse engine setups the thicker extremes or rippers are better. I've got sets of both haulers and extremes and they both do wonderfully for where I ride and how I ride.

Here's what I did... 3.5gal out back and stock tank up front. If I run gas I can ride a good part of the day without having to refill.

Very nice looking 450! Wish I had a 700 to trade ya...

I've got the DVR set up to record all the nitro circus stuff. Travis is freaking amazing! Jolene aint too shabby...

Just looking at the bolt pattern on the head, it looks very similar to a banshee head. Anyone have a stock head laying around they can send this guy? Talk to dave at noss machine, he might be able to help you out with an aftermarket head.

The smallest carbs I've ever run were 33's and the intakes I've messed around with were for 35's and 38's. I couldn't tell you about the size comparison to the stockers. I do know that some of the aftermarket intakes have changeable rubber boots that you can buy from sudco. You might be able to call them and get a measurement from them.

I'll second fouledout421. I've run both types of crossovers and didn't notice any single bit of difference between the built in crossover and just stright intakes. I have heard that they will make your bike slightly more forgiving with jetting errors. As to if this is true or not I couldn't tell you.

Gah, stock carbs are so freaking small. I'd say its 1. a float hieght issue or 2. needle valve probably has a little ring groove worn in it from age. Check float height first, if this doesn't correct the issue, then look at your needle valves. If they aren't closing off properly, buy the rebuild kit others have mentioned.

If you bought a stroker crank, here's a suggestion that might help you out. Assemble your top end with whichever thickness gasket you need for your porting, but leave the head off. Bring your pistons to TDC and measure your deck hight (how far your pistons rise above the top of your cylinders) and call up dave at Noss machine or Titan or just about any of the major builders and give them your porting specs and deck height and they can make you a custom set of domes. No need to run two head gaskets. If you bought a stroker crank and didn't get porting to go along with it, you might actually be hurting performance with your port timings being messed up. You could also run two base gaskets instead of two head gaskets, or figure out what you need for a single, double thickness base gasket. I know cascade innovations sells them from .015 to .028 thickness. I'm sure you could get a custom thickness gasket from somewhere, or just run two gaskets to get the thickness you need. Running two base gaskets will also help raise your port timings back up to a little bit closer to normal with your using a stroker crank.

quick sand swingers hold up pretty good to my average dune riding... good construction for sure. I wouldn't hesitate to go with them.

PVL - I'd say if you are a bigger guy and are used to the stock setup (heavy flywheel) then the PVL can be hard to get used to with launching and if you have a tendency to short-shift. It is not forgiving at all when it comes to short shifts since you don't have the weight of the flywheel to help out. The PVL definitely provides a much hotter spark and helps provide a more efficient burn. I've got a dyna on my twister bike and firehead put a custom curve in it, which is pretty handy. I prefer the stock CDI and a timing plate myself, but the dyna seems to do pretty good on my drag bike.

Start with a 12 or 14 paddle 22" to 25" tall. You can adjust for the tire height with gearing changes. When I had a 600 in my raptor it would roast 22" 10 paddles like crazy. The 600 needed 12's to hook up at all, so a 1000 would probably do pretty good with 12-14 paddle, maybe even some 16's once you get the chassis dialed in and gearing tied down. I've got a friend who runs a gsxr1000 in a DS frame and he is running 16's and its just about perfect.

I agree with the pics comments. We need clear pics of the cylinders (maybe looking down into the cylinders from the top at an angle so you can see the entire height of the cylinder) so everyone can see what condition the nicasil is in.

Paddles sold. Thanks bonbon! I'll get them to you asap

These tires retail for $344.96 through rockymountainatv.com

PM'd ya back.

I've got two sets of tires that I never really use. Figure someone else could get some good use out of them instead of me having them sitting in my barn all the time. First set is 22x11x10 10-paddle Haulers. They are on Kenda Dominator carcass, normal buff. Douglas black lable rims. Yamaha bolt pattern. Fits raptor, banshee, yfz... No leaks, no dents in rims or anything. I just don't use these. Paddles are pretty much brand new with a few trips to the dunes. The paddles still have a sharp edge on them and some of the little nubbies on the outer edge of the paddles. Chrome valve stems. $200 OBO. This price includes shipping. Second set is 20x11x9 Holeshot XC's on standard ITP steel rims. These are just some dirt tires we throw on random bikes who come up to the ranch to ride if they don't have dirt tires. No leaks. The rims show normal wear and tear around the bead area from riding on trails and what-not, but no major dents or dings. These have about 1/4" of tread left on them. Still lots of life left in them. Lets say... $165 OBO. I don't know what these are worth since I don't buy many dirt tires. If my price is too high let me know and we can make a deal. Price includes shipping. Hopefully someone can put these to good use instead of me just having them sitting around taking up space.

Is this recommendation pre-box-o-wine or post? I'd go with the 22" tire as well.

I'd go with the ported stockers. You can have them ported and set up for your exact riding style. Cubs are a god cylinder, but tend to be too peaky for a dune bike IMO. That's just me tho. A 4mil stock cylinder bike can be set up to be one hell of a mean duner.

LOL! What an amazing idea... a web site advertising parts and service you can actually purchase said items and services through. :thumbsup: :: :shrug: :shoothead:

I figured that. I want to try one of these new doo-dads. That bike needs it.