BigRed350x

Did you bend the steering stem, or the A-Pillar that holds the stem. In most cases the A-Pillar that sits in front of your gas tank, and has the upper support mounts for the steering stem is the weaker of the two and will bend back against the gas tank, and often-times bending the mount itself thats welded to the A-Pillar. Pull your front plastics off and take a good look at your frame and see if its the frame or the stem thats bent. I'd wager a guess that if you bent the stem, you definitely bent the frame.

They could also be ASR, without the skidplate. They look just like my old ASR arms.

Man if I were closer I would be out there riding in 50's! You guys are missing out on good riding! We ride in the teens and 20's around here this time of year.

Have you tried using two exhaust o-rings in each pipe flange? I'd take the stinger off, leave the springs on up on the cylinders, loosen your upper pipe mount and wiggle the expansion chamber around up and down, left and right while pushing towards your cylinders. See if you can wiggle it onto the exhaust flanges. If it fits onto the cylinders doing this, then adjust your upper pipe mount to hold the pipe where it sits tight to the exhaust flanges. Then put the stinger back on last. Try and run two exhaust o-rings if you can. Not sure of how the flange on the 2 into 1 pipes is designed. Like the other guys said, you can also goop up the pipe with some red hi-temp silicone.

Any time I pull my reeds off I like to toss a handfull of sand and small metal flakes into the cylinder. I like that raking metal grinding noise it gives my bikes. LOL I'd try the magnet through the intakes idea first, then pull the cylinders and try the magnet around the crank with the engine in the frame, then pull the engine and do the up-side-down shake, then as a last resort split the cases.

Who's going to be there? I'm planning on going for almost a week. Probably get there wednesday and head home sunday. I will probably have all 3 of my banshees with me. Anyone else from HQ gonna hit up the mad-house this year?

When you thinking aabout doing this? If I have enough time in advance to get time off work I would bring my Twister down and shoot your hill a few times. Would I be in the overkill class? 10mil Big Block Twister, Methanol, 2-5 override, HS Customs Chromoly frame, JJ&A etc. - Jared

Timing plate sold. Thanks wildshee, I'll ship it out monday or tuesday and get you a tracking number for it when I do ship it. Domes are still for sale! They are not cut for a 4mil. -Jared

Billet Adjustable Timing Plate - Like New $30 shipped 18cc Domes for stock cylinders $30 shipped They look a little dirty in the pics, but its just from riding around in my parts boxes, they are in good shape.

Bump for a sweet price! I ran these on a stock stroke dune bike a while back and it was a fun zippy ride.

Actually I mentioned that earlier.

Not interested in parting it out. I'd like to sell it as a complete, ready to ride package. If I can't do that, I'll keep it. If something changes and I get hard-up for cash I'll let you know. If you'd like, PM me an offer on the engine and see if you can't entice me into selling.

4mil domes are usually made specific for your application. The squish and offset for the crank changes bike to bike depending on your cylinders and base gasket thickness. because they work for one guy doesn't mean they will work for the next. A few thousandths change in your compressed base gasket can change the squish in your domes and change the effect the domes will have. You need to assemble your top end (minus head) and rotate to TDC and measure your deck height and send that measurement along with your porting specs and what type of fuel and timing you want to run to a builder and have them get you some domes. I recommend Noss machine. He's made me some nice custom domes before and is my first choice when it comes to custom domes. - Jared

I've had aluminum on all my bikes without any issues. Maybe try a lighter tension spring on the shift shaft and shift star roller, to make the movement easier, so you're not putting so much pressure on the shifter to change gears. That's the only thing I can think of that would make the aluminum ones wear out faster. Remember the aluminum is softer than the steel of the shift shaft, so its going to wear faster, especially if you like to stomp on your shifter lever. (never understood the people that do that)

Alf, I've got a quick on-the-fly adjust clutch lever I'll give you if you want it. Its used, but still good. Let me know, I can ship it out to ya mon or tues. I've also got 3 or 4 14t front sprockets. I'll toss one of them in the box with the lever if you want it. - Jared

Raptor is sold. Drag bike is still for sale / trade. I would also trade the drag bike for a nice enclosed trailer, small toy hauler, or RZR.

Tax time! Anyone get a sweet tax rebate they want to spend on a nice drag bike? Bump

Twister cranks are billet.

I ran 38's on my old 4mil duner with shearers and a dune-port. Wasn't overkill at all.

Daj, it almost looks like you have a stock petcock feeding those carbs. Good job hiding the pump. hehe Looks like your missing the rubber off your shifter.

If the claw is sliding off the pegs on the star, then its worn out and should have been replaced before the ride to begin with. General maintenance and routine inspections on off-ride time can prevent most problems. I don't have anything at all against mull engineering, I just think that the $ he would be spending on the shift star could be spent elsewhere. If he's got shift star issues, that $ should go towards fixing whatever part is worn out, to remedy the issue the correct way. Mull is also correct, the side-cover will wear faster than the shift shaft. Aluminum vs Steel just like he said. I've also seen people run without the gasket and just put some RTV red on the case to take up a couple thousands of slack if needed. Basically I would just say to keep up on the routine maintenance on your bike and check the parts that are known to wear and you can save the $ you would spend on artificial fixes on other goodies. - Jared

239lbs on the bike in my sig. HS Customs chromoly hillshooter frame, jj&a gun drilled axle, marvins, 3-spoke spindle mounts, etc.

No one can give you a good suggestion without knowing what ratio your primary's are. Do you have straight-cuts? If you do, then what ratio are your primary gears? It changes quite a bit when your primary gears change. Firehead custom made my straight-cuts and they sit at a 3.28 ratio which is stupid tall. I run 14x45 on my 10mil for 300ft with a 22" 14 paddle extreme.

I've got 152hp coming out of stock cases on my 10mil twister in my sig. Make yourself a case-stay back to the frame on the stator side. Dajogejr gave me the idea on mine. Shoot him a PM and he can explain it to you in detail. Solid engine mounts are also a must if you're pushing bigger power. - Jared

The only reason for your shifter linkage to come off the pegs on the shift star is if the stop that's built into the side-cover is getting worn. Its actually your clutch cover that holds the shifter linkage against the shift star. Look at your cover next time you have it off and you will notice a little post cast into the cover that pushes the linkage towards the shift star. I've seen people use washers between the shift lever and the side-cover to basically pull the shifter linkage towards the shift star. You can also weld a little dimple on the end of your shift shaft so the side-cover has a little more to push against, but you have to measure and make sure you don't put too much on it and end up pushing the shifter linkage too far, or risk cracking your side-cover when you torque it down. If your shifter linkage is coming off your shift star, then something is worn out. I'd start by replacing whatever is worn first, be it the shifter linkage, or the sidecover that holds it in place. The factory pegs are plenty long enough to hold your shift shaft if evrything is in spec. You can mod your stock shift star for free and save a few coins or spend that money elsewhere. The majority of the mods people pay builders for can be done yourself for free with a little time and planning.