BigRed350x

34mm TM flat side carbs sold! Cases Sold! Still have the Billet Basket, and Paddles!

In the hill video, why is the 10mil guy letting off the throttle like 3 times when he first starts? No override & trying to shift?

Bump!

CASES SOLD!

Updated List with new prices... Prices include shipping to the continental united states. If you're outside the lower 48 there might be additional shipping charges. Paypal only. Sandblasted Cases. No chain break. $135 22x11x10 10-paddle Extremes. Standard buff. $160 Billet Basket w/ helical gear & HD red cushions. Ready to install and run. Good shape! $125 Stock carbs, intakes and reeds $75 34mm Mikuni TM Flatslide carbs $Make Offer

Shipping is included in the price. Tires will be deflated and shrink-wrapped and shipped to you. PM me if you're interested in them. Thanks - Jared INTAKES - SOLD 39MM PUMPER CARBS - SOLD

I did offer the cases to greg for less than what they are listed for on PS. He hasn't gotton back to me on them, and I'm trying to get $ together to help pay property taxes on 50,000 acres. If he wants them, I will give them to him, but if I can sell them, I will sell them. He knows the whole situation.

You really are as dumb as you seem. The carbs I gave you, were carbs from GREG, not me. What parts did I "pilfur" off the bike? Every part on my black bike was purchased or traded for, squarely, by me. You got all butt hurt when I told you what your broken twister was worth and wouldn't trade you my black bike engine. I told greg to go through the whole damn thing and rebuild it when he got it from you and he didn't. That's his problem. But when we did disassemble the engine it was a joke how much crap was done wrong. Greg and myself both offered to help you over and over and over to get it running and put it together, and you declined. You instead put it together yourself with broken and used parts and mismatched bolts everywhere. Hell, you even missed 3 of the case bolts and I'd be willing to bet you didn't even follow the torque sequence on anything. So, the POS carbs were gregs old carbs, he just has them in a box at my house and I delivered them to you. I even took apart one of my sets of carbs and GAVE you the dump tubes you needed to make them run. So, how is that taking advantage of you? I tried to work a trade with you for this particular engine, which didn't work out. You wanted too much for it and I didn't have what you wanted out of me. No big deal. After what happened to greg with this engine I'm glad I didn't do the trade. How many times did I call and offer to help you jet the twister, and to put it together? Who gave you the original list of parts you needed to build it correctly? Who offered to come by your place and bring my whole tool box down to help you put it together? I think its greg you should be talking to here chase, not me. - Jared

Pics from the teardown... I'll let greg tell you about how that all went.

Cool design. I like it. Do you run a wheelie bar at the track? What do you have the weight down to on your bike? - Jared

Yeah, I was planning on it. We got hit with a bunch of snow last night and everything's a mess. I've got to replace a fuel pump on my truck first thing in the morning, then if greg can make it up here to my place we will start tearing everything apart. - Jared

I think I got the PM issue fixed. You can also email me at [email protected] My paypal address is [email protected] If you send me payment I can get the paddles sent out today. - Jared

I'd do a 22x11x8 10-11 paddle extreme b2b buff. Your weight and the +6 will make those bike pretty good. 9's will work, and give you some spin, the 10's or 11's would hook up better out of the hole and on the tree shoots. I ran 9's on my 4mil stock cyl dune bike and was really happy with how they performed. JMO - Jared

Yep. Engine is solid mounted to the frame too. Front/Back and bottom.

There are pics of the carbs and intakes in the thread. Can you not see them? I'll email copies of the pics to you though. No prob. Just shoot me a PM and I'll get you my paypal address. - Jared

I have property taxes coming up and need some cash to help out. Dug through my parts boxes and selling some stuff I have laying around. All prices are shipped. The more you buy the better deal I will make you... Stock Reeds - Brand new, taken off 2006 banshee, never ran. $35 Stock intakes - Brand new, never ran $30 Stock carbs - Used. I don't have the tops, just the carbs. They do have the slides in them though. $40 Intakes/Reeds/Carbs $95 Spare reeds and reed stops - 3 reeds 4 stops $5 If you buy the intakes reeds and carbs all together i will throw the spare reeds and reed stops in with everything else. Billet Basket & Stock helical gear, heavy duty red cushions $140 22x11x10 10-paddle Extremes on Douglas red-label rims, standard buff. Yamaha Bolt Pattern. Used, but still plenty of life left in them. $175 33-35mm Billet intakes. $65 34mm Mikuni TM Flatslide Carbs. Have Clippard style powerjets in them. Currently set up for gas. Both choke tops are missing, but choke lever still works fine. 1 carb is missing the cable adjuster (see pic) $150 34mm carbs and Billet intakes together $200 Buy them together and I will throw brand new intake gaskets and some k&N filters. For another $10 I'll throw in a throttle cable with everything else 39mm Keihin Pumper Carbs & Mikuni Pump $175 Carbs and drilled and tapped for clippard style powerjets, but do not come with powerjets. All prices are shipped! Paypal only. Thanks -Jared

What do your spark plugs look like? You asked if you should use some sealer on the gaskets for the head... are you using the head gasket along with the cool head o-rings? Don't do that if you are. The cool heads are designed to run with just the o-rings. No need for a head gasket if you have a cool head.

Yeah, the description of the stay rod makes sense. We will have to fab one of those up and slap on there. Thanks for the tip! I prefer welds as well, but its hard to come by someone with all the tools and means to do aluminum TIG work the right way and make it look good. I did a little bit of welding at the machine shop I used to work in, and I know enough to know not to try and TIG on banshee cases. I'm just not good enough to do aluminum work like that yet. Hopefully some day. So in the mean time, I use epoxy where I need to unless its mild steel or stainless etc. I was pretty unhappy when I saw his basket and all the free play it had in it when he took it apart. I wouldn't think anyone would put together a basket without the cushions. Like I said, if we get the chance to tear it down this weekend I am going to take a LOT of pictures, as a walk-through of sorts. I guess we will find out what really happened then. I'm hoping once we have some pictures to share with everyone it will be pretty evident what went wrong so we can fix it for the next go-around. On your engine stay, did you just drill straight through your sidecover and put a bolt all the way through? I was thinking about getting a heim with a male thread and drill/tap into the sidecover itself, so the heim joint would be in the sidecover, then run a solid rod with a groove cut in it to go around the heim, if that makes sense. Then do the same thing on the frame side with the rod, so it bolts in at the same place you have yours, up on the chain roller. Hope that makes sense...

Anyone else who runs the outboard bearing support ever have one crack on you? my big block twister cracked one. Wondering what would make it crack. Thought the whole idea of it was to add support to the rear gear cluster /sprocket to help prevent flex around the bearing next to the sprocket. Everything is tight and solid. No play or anything anywhere. Firehead suggested I try one of the new chariot outboard bearing supports, but I don't want to shell out that kinda $ if its going to crack or break like the last one did. I'd like to find out what caused this one to break and fix it before I buy a new one. ideas? - Jared

I think you got all the same spots I would normally do for a HD frame. The gussets dont need to be uuber thick or anything. Your not trying to stiffen up a tank. Its just an ATV. Don't go overboard. It won't take much to make these frames stronger. Look at the thickness of the factory gussets and it will give you a good idea of what to use. When I did my last HD frame I used bar-stock that was about twice as thick as what the factory gusset thickness was.

I had a bike with the EXACT same problem you have described here. It turned out to be worn out hub on the clutch basket combined with worn clutch basket cushions. Both of which are relatively easy to fix, but require removal of the clutch and inspection of the basket and draining of your oil and coolant to remove the sidecover. Its all really easy to check/fix if you don't mind getting a little dirty. These engines are very simple and if you have any mechanical knowledge it will be a simple check/fix for you if your problem is the same as mine. If you don't mind pulling your sidecover, I can tell you exactly what to look for and how to check it to see if the problem I had is the same as yours. - Jared Never mind, saw that you got it fixed. LOL

I'll give titan a call tonight, or greg can. I was thinking about him as well. As far as I could tell from what little greg got dissassembled so far, it looks like 1 or 2 things that happened. Soemthing in the trans is defintely toast. The case is exploded upwards directly above the rear gear cluster, like a gear exploded and bound up or something and there were a LOT of metal shavings in the oil when we drained it and in the clutch compartment. The crank all looks good. Still feels right and solid. No issues on the top end or in the crank department. Compression was and still is 185 on both cylinders before and after the tranny went. I believe he checked cylinder clearance and it was about .004" on one cyl and .003" on the other. The only other issue I saw in there was there were no cushions on the clutch basket (the billet basket was installed by the bikes previous owner). I wouldn't think that missing cushions would cause the trans to explode, but you never know when everything in there is spinning that fast with a heavy load on it. He should have gone through and torn the whole engine down and checked everything when he first got it from chase, before running it. Excitement got the better of him and he ran it "as-is" when he got it after we put bigger carbs on it. He learned the lesson the hard way this time around, but at the same time, it will give him the opportunity to go through and do things right this time, with good parts, and also document the build for others here looking to do the same thing. What do you think happened from the description so far? I'm going to take a LOT of pics of everything this weekend if we do split the cases and we will update this thread as he goes along with the rebuild. Thanks for the input. This is a lot more of what I hope people are looking for in threads like this. I've got to get back to work, but I will check back here tonight for sure. - Jared

Greg has helical gears on the twister, but I know he's got a set of stright-cuts on his dune bike. Maybe we swap gear sets between the two bikes and see if it helps. I also ran helical gears on my 10mil cub when I had it and never had any problems with it. I agree with you on that issue. The straights definitely help, but are over-used a lot of the time when they aren't really needed. I believe gregs crank has stock style bearings on it, but I don't think the crank was the issue with this last carnage. Something definitely bound up int he transmission and blew everything all to hell. We haven't split the cases yet, but are going to try this weekend if the weather is ok. Thanks, good ideas!