BigRed350x

This is the exact reason I tear down any engine I get in a for sale or a trade before I ever even try and run it. I got a 4mil in a trade a couple months ago and when I tore it apart I found an arm broke off the clutch basket wedged under the clutch gear. If I had tried to run it, it would have jacked all sorts of stuff up. It only takes a weekend to tear it down and check things out and rebuild it. If everything is as described and good to go, then all you lost was a weekends worth of time to tear it down and check things out. If it turns out you got a bum deal like this, then you can work on fixing everything right from the get-go and not risk any farther harm from bunk parts.

~~~Up!~~~

I've only seen a few things crack a cover. One of them is if your timing is advanced too far and you get a kickback when it tries to fire. If the kicker is still engaged it will drive the kicker backwards and crack the cover. The other thing I've seen crack the cover is if your kickstarter is somehow out of alignment, or worn excessively when you kick it all the force goes into the cover instead of being distributed between the cases and cover. Inspect your kicker real good when you replace your cover and make sure its not worn or anything weird. Other possibility is you might just have a lemon cover and it cracked just from fatigue. Sorry to hear about it. At least it happened in your garage and not out on the trail. Also, you should have upped your pilot jet, not your main jet if you're trying to ease starting.

If you are interested in the cylinders, I can give you my phone number and walk you through the assebly and what measurements to take and send to your builder or noss machine to get a set of domes made. - Jared

No, they won't work like this. From what brandon at wildcard told me the port timing would be all thrown off if you did this. If you tried to space the cylinders up it would take it beyond a drag port and it just wouldn't run. Unfortuneately these cylinders just need a set of cut domes.

If you're good with a welder you can tig a cap on both ends of your pipes, then most places will chrome them. When you get them back, just take a flap-disc and grind the caps off. That's a good price to chrome used pipes. Is it a full tripple plated chrome or is it a nickel plate?

I have a set of stock stroke ported cylinders. They are 65.5mm bore though, so a little higher bore than what you're looking for. You would need to get a set of custom domes made for them though. Any builder or Noss machine can make the domes. Fresh hone. 65.5mm bore. They do not come with head studs. $140 shipped

I agree, the straight-cuts aren't needed for your build. I'd go 33 or 35pwk for the carb. On a 4mil on gas you will probably be fine with the stock bowls. On my 10mil cub I sucked the bowls dry on gas just like loco, but on a 4mil on gas you should be good to go with factory bowls. - Jared

Yeah, let me know... even if you can only make it to denver, I would come down and hang out with you for an evening. I've got a handfull of banshees around the barn now, so if you can make it all the way up to the ranch you would have something to go ride around.

You make any sweet 1-off parts for your mustang? Give me a call one of these days, haven't heard from you in a while. You need to come up and massacre another lawnmower with us. - Jared

Mark, is there anything you don't make? lol Maybe you can fab up a box-o-wine holder for jon.

Thanks for the offer, but I live on a ranch in the middle of nowhere. I've got 16 miles of nasty dirt road to get to my place. It would destroy a car like that. Plus I couldn't haul much hay with an IROC. haha! Thanks for the offer though - Jared

sent you a pm...

Bump! Offers?

Bump! $100 anyone?

man, at least this 100+mph banshee is getting some good views. Too bad its all negative publicity.

Well keep the pics coming once your new chassis is done. I like that orange color on the old one.

Which little sahara you guys talking about? Utah or the other one? I might try and get all my hoopdies together and come ride with some HQ guys mid-march.

Alf is a good guy for sure.

Alf is a good guy for sure.

When I changed my grill out on my fiberglass the new screws wouldn't go in at all. I just mixed up a little epoxy and put in where the old screws used to go, then drilled and tapped it for the new screws. Haven't had any problems with it. - Jared

Lookin gooood! I wish I had the time/money to PC the cases on my twister to match the frame. I've got 3 other banshees tore apart in my barn right now. I'm doing a pink/black build for the g/f this year. I should have matched her cases too, but didn't even think about it while I had them apart. Good looking bike! - Jared

Very true, and well put. I generally only use dyno's for a baseline. Real world testing and tuning is far more important, and I didn't take into account variances in different dyno's. I didn't even think about that when I made my other post. From what the other members have said, that you're running right up there with tripples, I'd say you've got it dialed in pretty damn good. I didn't mean for my comment to come off as any sort of shit-talking or trying to start any crap. That number just sounded a little low comparatively to the numbers I got on my little 10mil, but I didn't take into account the discrepency between the different dyno's the numbers were taken from. You have a very nice looking bike. I look forward to seeing more pics/videos/track times from it once you get it all finished. - Jared

I've never seen one of those before. I'm with loco, looks like a 1-off custom piece.

lol, ok, bad choice of words in trying to convey my thoughts. All things aside, his 20mil is a good lookin beast. I still think he could get more power out of it than what he listed.