BigRed350x

What about the folks who don't like the cast CP Industries stuff? Where do the billet cylinders fit in? Small block, big block, sniper...

Did HJR undercut any of the gears or just side-cut them? If the gears aren't undercut after you sidecut them you run the risk of the gears forcing themselves apart when engage. That combined with the modded shift star and the easy roll bearing on the arm, it could just be forcing itself back out under power. Did you happen to try a stock shift star with the roller bearing and the HJR transmission? Give us a list of what different options you've tried and what it did when you test-rode it with each option. See if we can't figure something out or at least try and help with ideas of crap to check... - Jared

Hey wacko, are you running a modded shift linkage? Is yours milled out on the keeper/adjuster for the shift star pegs?

Just go yank a tans out of an 03+ R6 and drop it in your shee. lol j/k PM'd you again...

Yes, it does. 66mm piston on a banshee is 80 over.

Man if I were closer I'd come help ya out. Come on guys! Someone has to be close to this guy! We've got people all over the country...

Sounds like he's standing behind the bulletproof claims. I'd just get a hold a him and sort out any issues with the extreme transmissions before you put one in. The dude sent out a normal duneable in exchange for a broken extreme. That's a good move on his part. I'd just contact him and send yours back if you have issues or doubts about running it. - Jared

40 over stock cylinders and 66mm pistons?? That's some black magic! 66mm pistons would be 80 over.

Stock frame or aftermarket frame? I'd say anywhere from an 11 paddle to a 13 paddle. 22" with an 8" rim. Stretch your tires when you first get them. You will need to just get out and play with gearing. 15 is a good starting point for the front and 43 or 44 in the rear. I ran a 10-paddle extreme, with 15x42 gearing with a +6 arm on my 4mil on methanol last time I was at sand mountain, and 15x45 with 14 paddle extremes on a 10" arm with 2.76 primary's on my twister at utah. Its a long run, just make sure you don't run so much paddle that it holds you back up on the hill. Less paddle and you will come out of the shoots a little slower, but you'll do better up on the face and in the bottle-neck.

Springs on the gear shaft is a little sketchy to me. The shaft and gears are designed with certain clearances and the drum was designed with assumed side to side movement clearances on the gears. Throw a spring on the gear shaft and all that goes out the window. I've always used springs on the shift fork shafts on the transmissions I build, but I don't think I'd even try and throw springs on the gear shafts.

Sent you a PM...

We race almost every weekend at KP in the summer and don't get into fights about it. We all know there are the guys who show up claiming they have a 4mil that's really a 10mil or a stock stroke that's really a 4mil... it happens everywhere. Its just the people who are there racing that make it what it is. Shitty people make shitty racing, good people make good racing.

Looking good! Where did you score the seat cover fabric? - Jared

Sounds like one of the little o-rings that go around your studs didn't seat, or you have an air bubble trapped in the system somewhere and its building pressure in the head and pushing coolant around the o-ring. I'd pull the water-pump cover off and drain the system, then re-fill it slowly giving any air bubbles a chance to escape. Try that first, if the small leak around the studs continues you have 2 options. Pull the top off the head and replace the small orings that go around your studs, OR go down to your local hardware store and buy some copper crush washers that fit around your headstuds. Pull the two nuts off the studs that are leaking, put the crush washers on, then replace and retorque the headstuds. - Jared

Run it, you'll be fine.

You could always go with the 55gal drum of oil and just drop your entire engine into the drum.

BR8ES for running Gas BR9ES for running Alky/Methanol gapped tighter since the added fuel tends to wash out the spark. R = Resistor - recommended for stock CDI/ignition setups. You can buy spark plug caps that have the resistor built into the cap, then you don't need to buy the R type plugs, you could just run B8ES or B9ES plugs. - Jared

IF you know you're going to be tearing it down soon to check everything out, I'd just pour a crapload of 2-stroke oil down in the cylinders and pull the carbs off and go through and clean them out with carb cleaner. If you're going to go through and tear it down anyway, you can clean out the 2-stroke oil during tear-down. I've also done the WD-40 thing others have mentioned. I've done it both ways and had an engine sit for a week or so before I got the time to fix the fuckup and didn't have any issues. - Jared

They look like 3 or 3.5" offset rims. RMATV sells them a lot. I run them on all my dune bikes. Widens your front end stance a little. They work good.

I have an HS Customs Fiberglass front fender with billet radiator cover. White. Clean, ready to bolt on or paint. Great shape. I'd like to trade for a set of chrome SB IF shearer pipes.

Looks like a gun-drilled JJ&A

Stock clutch basket! Aaahhhhhhh! Why no billet basket?

Pretty much every builder or speed shop sells them... Free bump.

Check your clutch basket for excessive play as well. I've seen a loose clutch basket have enough play to move back and eat the circplip off the idler gear shaft. K&T sells a metal bushing that you can press into your idler gear and it won't wear out like the stock brass bushing.

Ditch it and run the coolant overflow line down along one of your frame rails. The only place you need one is on drag strips where you aren't allowed to have any kind of spillage on the track.