BigRed350x

If you treat your override correctly there is a very little chance of bending forks. The factory forks are relatively cheap. If you suck at running an override and bend a lot of forks, it could be a justified purchase.

Sounds like he had a set of stock cylinders that were set up by twister. I've never heard of a 72mm sleeve though. 68mm sleeves, yes, but not 72's. I don't think there would be much transfer left after a sleeve that size on stock cylinders.

I run straight cuts, a magnum basket and the red HD cushions on my 10mil twister without any problems. (so far... lol)

Yes, the hardpack would eat your paddles up pretty quick. You could try and do a thicker paddle, or different style of paddle. I believe skat trak makes a paddle called a desert storm, or something similar to that name. They are a paddle designed for both hardpack and sand. If you want to run a standard paddle, I would go with something with a thicker base like a ripper or extreme. But you would eat both of those up pretty quick if you're romping on it. - Jared

Just go romp on it. I've always done 2 heat cycles then just go ride it like you normally would. I usually get about 3 years out of a top end before I need to replace anything. I might do rings after 2 years if the compression calls for it. Just make sure you let your bike warm up before you take off. Give the pistons time to warm and expand.

Shaved head?? Twister cylinders use domes. What do you mean when you say it has a shaved head? What size domes are in it? Got the o-ring kit? Post up some pics.

I've got the lockup & cover in my sig and it works great. Direct Drive unit.

Pour a little into a glass jar. If it looks mily or has floaties in it, don't use it. If it still looks clear with your oil mixed in, you'll be fine. I've run stuff a lot older than yours without any problems. Floaties are a sign of decomposition and milky look is a sign of moisure. - Jared

Um, no.

KP Sand Dunes, Rock Springs, WY. Its a shitty road to get to them, and probably the least traveled dunes out of all the major dunes. I'll let the pics speak for themselves... Over 10,000 acres of ORV open dunes to ride.

Shoot me a price for your stock gas tank shipped to 82059. Need one by the weekend of the 17th. I also need a set of stock rear hubs in good shape.

Rexburg is the closest town and has everything you would need. There's an ATV shop right off the highway (huge blue bldg, tough to miss) hotels, food, walmart, ace hardware. Just ask around town, there's a gas station there in town that sells 112 octane gas if needed. Can't remember which one, but I know they sell it in 5gal cans. The dunes are only like 10-15min away from town. How many guys total you got going? - Jared

Rexburg is the closest town and has everything you would need. There's an ATV shop right off the highway (huge blue bldg, tough to miss) hotels, food, walmart, ace hardware. Just ask around town, there's a gas station there in town that sells 112 octane gas if needed. Can't remember which one, but I know they sell it in 5gal cans. The dunes are only like 10-15min away from town. How many guys total you got going? - Jared

Gear would probably be one of the last things I'd ever think about stealing from anyone. After working in hospitals and seeing the diseases and crap that can be spread through sweat, I wouldn't want a strangers stuff around me. You couldn't really sell the stuff anywhere close to local because the people would be looking for it, can't wear it (at least I wouldn't, that's nasty) so whats the point? Best of luck getting your stuff back guys. - Jared

CascadeInnovations.net sells a billet 10mil crank with TZ bearing and Maxload bearing for around 1k. A good brand new 10mil crank can be had for around 1k give or take a few 100's. All depends on what quality of a crank you want, if its trued and welded or not, pinned, etc, the length of the rods....

PM "Firehead" here on HQ, he's in your area.

ya'll are crazy.

Start swapping parts cylinder to cylinder. Plugs, wires, carbs, reeds, intakes, etc... see if the problem jumps to the other cylinder when you change parts. Backfiring is usually a lean condition or an air leak. This could explain why its not running on both cylinders. Did you do a leak-down test after you rebuilt the top end? - Jared

Sounds like the brass bushing that is pressed into your clutch basket has worn out. Its the softest metal in that whole region and will typically wear out before anything else. I'd bet if you pulled your pressure plate, innter hub and clutch out that you could grab the secondary drive gear on the back of the basket and try and tilt it in and out at the top and bottom it will move. You need a new brass bushing in your basket. Call Kim at K&T. He makes a needle bearing replacement for that gay brass bushing. Works a LOT better and won't wear out like the stock bushings will.

+4 would work good for you. Just watch for signs of detonation when you run it for the first time with the timing advanced.

www.cascadeinnovations.net www.ebay.com

Yes, pretty much the same except connectors. They added a few things as the years progressed, like the brake-light switches on the brake levers on the newer years. But the main harness itself hasn't changed much.

Forgot to mention that the key on the crank DOES NOT hold your flywheel from spinning on the crank. The taper of the flywheel and the taper of the crank are a matched set and press together. This is what holds the flywheel on the crank, and why it is critical to get your flywheel nut torqued down good. The key is just there to ensure proper flywheel alignment before and while your torque it down. If you have an aftermarket flywheel or crank the tapers often times don't line up perfect. Louie at twister told me to use blue loctite on the taper of the crank and flywheel to help make sure everything isn't going to move once its all together. Just remember you have the loctite on there before you try and remove the flywheel, since you'll need to heat it up with a propane torch before you try and zip the flywheel off.

Not sure what manual you are reading off of, but here's a basic rundown of setting up the ignition on your banshee... With the flywheel off, your stator is bolted to the engine in 3 places. Now, depending on if you have an adjustable timing plate or a stock one it changes how you set things up. With the adjustable plate your 0 mark gets lined up with the hair-line split between the case halves at the 3-oclock position as your looking at your engine from the side. (crank center line at the center of the clock) If you run a stock timing plate then you can't adjust it. Just make sure when you install the stator/timing plate that your pickup coil is down around the 5-oclock position. Next, put your keyway in your crank (I like to secure mine with a little dab of threebond and let it set up before you install the flywheel. Helps keep the key from moving around when your installing the flywheel. Then just make sure the flywheel keyway is lined up with the key on the crank you just installed and slide the flywheel into place. Torque the flwyeel nut to spec. I like to use an impact for this, but be careful, I've seen people go too much with the impact and snap the end of the crank off. Then just hook up your wires. If you're losing spark, the first thing I'd check is your pickup coil gap (we set them to .018") then try new plugs, then new plug caps. If still no spark, try and swap out the coil (cheapest) if still no spark, then do the stator next. This is all assuming you've check your harness for loose connections and good grounds. That should be a good start.

JJ&A Play axle all the way. Works great!